A word of advice to you non-mechanical types....

[BamaDrifter64]

I bought my '99 I/S last year from a very nice man in Florida.  It had 90K on the odometer and a rear tire with less than 1K miles on it.  He told me, as I was asking all about the bike, that he couldn't do anything mechanical and always had a shop do work on the bike.  That scared me right away - but he assured me that the shop was great, with great mechanics who knew what they were doing, etc. and so on.  Well, 12K miles later, it's time for a new tire.  I was halfway tempted to take it to a m/c shop and have them change it out, because my time is so limited, but I knew I needed to look at the splines and all and see what kind of shape the rear-end was in on my now 102K mile baby.

Here's what I found:





I wasn't having any problems with the rear-end yet, thankfully, but as you can see, there's not hardly any grease on the splines.  In fact, they're rusty.  There wasn't much grease ANYWHERE!  I have some wear on the final drive, but I think I caught it in time before I have to replace it.  Everything else seems to be in pretty good condition.

Learn to do your own mechanical work.  No one will ever take care of your baby like you will.  It's not near as hard as you're afraid it is.  If you just don't have the aptitude to do it, find a friend who can and be a mechanic's assistant for them.  I'm sure there are some trustworthy shops out there...I just don't know who or where they are!  Ok, I'm done with my venting....

Dave

[Red Diamond]

Not a surprising find, my friend, who is not mechanical at all, have all his work done by the Honda dealer. The pics you showed was exactly what I found when his final drive failed. The only difference was the splines on the flange were done, along with the rust in your pics. Instead of rebuilding the final drive, we just replaced everything with a low mileage unit from Pinwall. His bike has 135k and after many MC tire changes you would think the dealer would lube those everytime, Not.

[X Ring]

Learn to do your own mechanical work.  No one will ever take care of your baby like you will.  It's not near as hard as you're afraid it is.  If you just don't have the aptitude to do it, find a friend who can and be a mechanic's assistant for them.

Dave

2nd this.   

Marty

[sandy]

They were lubed by a pro. The grey matter that's flung outward on the driven flange is Honda's moly paste. It dries out and doesn't stay put. Use Bel Ray or Guard Dog and you'll ride on what's left for a couple of more years. Clean all the parts up, replace O rings and relube.

[Ricky-D]

Yup,

I think that mostly comes from water intrusion.

Riding in the rain in Florida is the normal.

The more you ride in the rain and especially in the rain at highway speeds,
the more important to check the splines for wear and contamination.

The bits that wear off, become the abrasive that perpetuates and speeds up the process.

That rust is the culprit.  Oxides are the main component of sandpaper less the paper.

***

[BamaDrifter64]

What's the best way to get the rust out of the pumpkin drive?  I can take a wire brush to the flange, but not sure how to cean the other.

Dave

[RP#62]

Given the flat spot on the o-ring, it looks like among other things, they reused rather than replaced the o-rings.
-RP

[Hoser]

F#*k  Dealers!  hoser

[F6Viking]

If you have access to a good parts washer you can do that. Did mine at work a couple of years ago. Just clean out all the loose goop and dry stuff that you can then use the washer to get it nice and clean. While you are at it drain the final drive oil and make sure the 2 small weep holes are cleaned out and open where the pumpkin and driveshaft go together. Once done cleaning you can drain well to get as much parts cleaner out as possible, air gun helps.
I put some new fluid in, put plug back in and rolled pumpkin around to spread new lube and then drained it again before putting everything back together with new Bel-ray. Once back together, fill final drive again and go riding.
While you have it apart, make sure to replace all 3 o-rings when re-greasing.
Tore mine down again about a month ago and looks great.

[Tundra]

They were lubed by a pro. The grey matter that's flung outward on the driven flange is Honda's moly paste. It dries out and doesn't stay put. Use Bel Ray or Guard Dog and you'll ride on what's left for a couple of more years. Clean all the parts up, replace O rings and relube.

+1 on the moly paste, used to use it on aircraft hydraulic pump splines, did the same thing there too, now only use Bel-Ray waterproof grease . Actually, they dont' look bad, just rusty and dry. They are in better shape than mine.

[2qmedic]

TO address the "water" situation, I use green grease   

http://www.greengrease.net/

Yes I live in Fl, and get caught in the rain sometimes. My I/S has 68k and splines show only the gear mesh contact patch which is just that. It is not in any way abnormal wear.

It is a high temp, high psi, water proof grease, it is non melting and non running grease.

I use it on the forward drive shaft splines, the rear splines (yea, I leave the holes plugged) and of course the wheel splines.

All is well.

[John U.]

I use Green Grease as well. The splines are always in good shape and well lubed still when I pull it all apart. I've been mixing some Honda moly paste or Belray assembly lube to add some moly content.

[Oldswimr]

I bought my I/S last year, had 47K on it, and had just had the tire replaced, it now has right at 49K. I'm the third owner, should I be concerned about lube on the splines? Heading to Rolling Thunder end of the month from NE NC. Bike is in excellent shape otherwise, apparently well taken care of.

[Jabba]

I bought my I/S last year, had 47K on it, and had just had the tire replaced, it now has right at 49K. I'm the third owner, should I be concerned about lube on the splines? Heading to Rolling Thunder end of the month from NE NC. Bike is in excellent shape otherwise, apparently well taken care of.

Just one mans opinion here... but if YOU have not seen them lubed... assume they are not.  It's not that tough to do.  I did mine today.  Did my standard last fall.  Neither was bad.  it's about a 2 hour job the 1st time you do it.

Jabba

[X Ring]

At that mileage, he needs to pull the pumpkin and driveshaft to check the pinion cup and driveshaft splines also.

Marty

[Blackduck]

Find it hard to believe riding in the rain will let water into the splines. Centrifugal force will sling water away from the axle. That is unless you are riding in water above the axles! Between a couple of my mates and myself we have ridden in a lot of rain and never seen any signs of water in the splines.
Mate just uses plain grease and has over 200,000 Kilometers up and has no problems with his splines.
I use Castrol LMM and at 75,000 K's they look like new.
Looking at the splines I would have a good look at the wheel bearings and definitely loosen the 4 nuts on the final drive, they appear to have worn at an angle.
Think the majority of these pics we see are a case of no or very little lube.
I would also reuse them, if in doubt about cleaning all the crud out do your best then lube and use for a couple of weeks then restrip and clean again.
Cheers Steve

[asfltdncr]

If not the rain, perhaps the previous owner liked to pressure wash.

[Mr.BubblesVRCCDS0008]

I've used this stuff  for over 70k on my I/S and it now has 117K on it and the splines show no signs of wear at all.http://www.royalpurple.com/ultra-performance-grease-o.html

[art]

I have used automotive wheel bearing grease for seven years an 100000miles with no wear at all .the same one the drive shaft spline

[Oldswimr]

I bought my I/S last year, had 47K on it, and had just had the tire replaced, it now has right at 49K. I'm the third owner, should I be concerned about lube on the splines? Heading to Rolling Thunder end of the month from NE NC. Bike is in excellent shape otherwise, apparently well taken care of.

Just one mans opinion here... but if YOU have not seen them lubed... assume they are not.  It's not that tough to do.  I did mine today.  Did my standard last fall.  Neither was bad.  it's about a 2 hour job the 1st time you do it.

Jabba

OK, can I do this with a fllor-type M/C lift, (it's an I/S). I'd like to NOT remove the exhaust, and I saw the video where this was done w/out removing the exhaust, but he had the table.

[Joe Hummer]

They were lubed by a pro. The grey matter that's flung outward on the driven flange is Honda's moly paste. It dries out and doesn't stay put. Use Bel Ray or Guard Dog and you'll ride on what's left for a couple of more years. Clean all the parts up, replace O rings and relube.

Sandy,

I am not trying to cause a problem here but you REALLY seem to talk bad about the Moly Paste.  Do you remember my splines at InZane last year?  I use nothing but Honda Moly Paste on my bikes.  (I bought a tube of it a few years ago and still have/use it.)  But I do clean off the splines every time I take the rear wheel off and apply new grease.  This is usually done once a year.  Hard to beat regular maintenance on any bike with any lubricant. 

Joe

[Joe Hummer]

You can do it with a M/C Lift.  Principal is the same.  I found some soft-tie straps (normally used to wrap around the forks or handlebars when trailering) that allowed me to hold the swingarm in the right place to get the axle out/in.  I use brute force (me) to lift the axle but you can also use a floor jack. 

Joe