Inzane 17

tank removal / air filter

Started by N0tac0p, Wed 14, Apr 2010, 05:02:34

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N0tac0p

OK, gonna be changing out my air filter to a k&N.  so do i or do i not use the prefilter?  ALso, everything is stock, so iguess i am wndering is there ANYTHING I should upgrade / change / do while i got he tank off?

hubcapsc

Quote from: N0tac0p on Wed 14, Apr 2010, 05:02:34
OK, gonna be changing out my air filter to a k&N.  so do i or do i not use the prefilter?  ALso, everything is stock, so iguess i am wndering is there ANYTHING I should upgrade / change / do while i got he tank off?

Last time I had my tank off, I removed the petcock and performed the vacuum test outlined in
the shoptalk article...

Now I think that if reserve seems to work right, and if your bike "runs out of gas" in a mile or so if
you turn the gas off, you petcock is probably working OK...

-Mike

Jess from VA

If you don't have rejetted carbs, instal the K & N prefilter.

If you were considering running any wires from the right side cover, under the tank forward, this would be the time.

Careful not to kink anything putting the tank back on (like the vent tube).

Cattman

Make the gas line 2-3" longer and replace the spring clamps with hose clamps that can also use a small socket to open/close.


1FAST6

Use the prefilter if you are running stock.  You should also order the Cover Set and rebuild your petcock if you still have stock.  The rubber diaphram won't last forever.  I do mine every 3-5 yrs. Easy job and reduces risk of hydrolock.

05 COVER SET,rooster
16953-MBZ-B51  (replaces 16953-MV9-000)  001 $28.91

I just ordered the Quick Disconnect from Red Eye.  This will make it much easier the next time you pull the tank. 

http://redeye.ecrater.com/product.php?pid=2063367

I'm also moving my fuel filter (you should install one if you don't have one already) into the loop on the Quick Disconnect and installing the Dan-Marc electronic fuel shut-off valve.

http://www.dan-marc.com/79-afc11112.html

Cover Set, Fuel Filter, and Dan-Marc valve are your best protection against Hydrolock and you can do all 3 with the Quick Disconnect for under $100.

upjeeper

electronic fuel shutoff valve?? that's a really good idea!

I was reading last night about a guy who put a diesel engine into his bike and couldn't get it to shut off and eventually ran itself into the ground because it could not shut off.

1FAST6

Popular consensus is to wire the valve to the black/white wire going to the coils.  It will then shut off under any of these scenerios: Side stand down in gear, Red engine switch set to off, key off, or tip-over switch activated.  Of course, you will still have gas in the carb bowls, but nothing will flow from the tank.

98valk

if u ride in dirty dusty areas, your engine will ingest lots of dirt with that K&N.

www.bobistheoilguy.com   air filter section and how oil analysis proves this

or and actual test of filters
http://getdieselpower.com/misc_auto/Spicer_Filter_Testing.html

background of and who did the test
http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/showthread.php?t=10372&
1998 Std/Tourer, 2007 DR200SE, 1981 CB900C  10speed
1973 Duster 340 4-speed rare A/C, 2001 F250 4x4 7.3L, 6sp

"Our Constitution was made only for a Moral and Religious people. It is wholly inadequate to the goverment of any other."
John Adams 10/11/1798

N0tac0p

anyone have pics of the quick connect, fuel filter and electric shut off?  I would't know where to start for the istall of all that stuff?  PS should i replace every hose while the tanks off?  size?

Robert

Yup jets, polish the intakes, desmog with replacing vacuum hoses, replace the petcock oil change and all should be good. Except you could do the exhaust too but I didn't want to give you to much, just kidding :angel: but in a all stock bike I would leave the foam in there. It will help the fuel mix keep a little richer and possibly avoid any problems. ;D Some have replaced it and taken out the foam and not had a problem but it really wont make a difference in power if left in. Yet if left out, may lean out the mixture so there will be a problem. If you do any mods later you can always remove it.
"Some people see things that are and ask, Why? Some people dream of things that never were and ask, Why not? Some people have to go to work and don't have time for all that."

Robert

To CA first thanks for the info I was looking for that test and its good, BUT :D As things in the real world it really doesn't mean all that much. Why :roll: because even with our bikes will hit 200k with no problems not much in oil changes and yes even dirty or KN air filters. If I was looking to be a cross country hauler and wanted to get 500k out of my rig before tear down I would consider not changing to a KN. But as the real world testing goes there are some here with well over 150k with KN and dont have a problem. I would say that you have a better chance of getting rid of the bike than it to die from a bad air filter. I have seen as you more likely have too engines not only ingest so much but run with things that engineers would shudder with and all was ok. I would recommend not doing a KN with any vehicle with a air mass meter because this thing sits in the middle of the air stream and has a fine wire that the air directly hits. Any dirt will cause these to go bad and the cost is anywhere from 250 to 800. I am not really a big fan of KN but there's not to many options that are better. I was thinking of what would give a good filtering result and low restriction and I think something that multi layer may do it but you would have to design the air box around the filter. Honda already did that with the Valk because they have balanced the carbs with the idea of the oem filter restriction in mind.
"Some people see things that are and ask, Why? Some people dream of things that never were and ask, Why not? Some people have to go to work and don't have time for all that."