carb breakdown

[N0tac0p]

OK, tried everything to "free' up / flush the seats in the carbs.  they still leak by.  Sooooo, I am in the process of taking the bank out and opening the bowls and cleaning.  anything specific i should look for, be cautious about,  what rebuil stuff will i need.......bowl gaskets, other rings?  Looking for a a little help from those that have been there done that.  thanks

[98valk]

OK, tried everything to "free' up / flush the seats in the carbs.  they still leak by.  Sooooo, I am in the process of taking the bank out and opening the bowls and cleaning.  anything specific i should look for, be cautious about,  what rebuil stuff will i need.......bowl gaskets, other rings?  Looking for a a little help from those that have been there done that.  thanks

I have had the bowls off at least ten times and the org gaskets are fine, no leaks.
I don't know the details of your problem or bike, but if u are talking about the seats leaking bye, then u need new float needles.
OEM manifold 0-rings are good for 2-3 removals. if u want new ones go with viton material.

[hubcapsc]

http://redeye.ecrater.com/category.php?cid=414983

-Mike

[N0tac0p]

any reccomendation on float needles?  but it could be bad floats

[Ricky-D]

OK, tried everything to "free' up / flush the seats in the carbs.  they still leak by.  Sooooo, I am in the process of taking the bank out and opening the bowls and cleaning.  anything specific i should look for, be cautious about,  what rebuil stuff will i need.......bowl gaskets, other rings?  Looking for a a little help from those that have been there done that.  thanks

Best way is to determine exactly which carburetor is the problem and direct your energy to that singular carburetor. It makes no sense to detail strip the whole carburetor assembly for one individual problem.

If you don't like my suggestion now, you will appreciate it's value later on if you go through with a total take-down of the carburetor system.

Have you considered getting yourself a synchronizing set-up before you start to mess with the carburetors? You will definitely need to synchronize after you mess with the original settings. You may be able to get "close" with mechanical methods but that's only second best!

You should also look at the petcock and determine that is not your problem. There have been a few times where leaky gas problems were petcock related rather than the float needles in the carburetors.

***

[N0tac0p]

ummmm, lets assum ewe have a petcock problem, should the floats and needle valve stop the gas from flooding?

[X Ring]

Yes.

Marty

[hubcapsc]

Best way is to determine exactly which carburetor is the problem and direct your energy to that singular carburetor. It makes no sense to detail strip the whole carburetor assembly for one individual problem.

If you don't like my suggestion now, you will appreciate it's value later on if you go through with a total take-down of the carburetor system.

I haven't removed a single carb, or the whole bank, I'm guessing you have...

I was putting my gas tank back on this weekend after doing some work, and noticed that the carb overflow hoses on the left bank were cracked and loose, so I replaced
them. I checked the ones on the right bank, but I had to reach up in there and feel them to decide whether they were cracked or not, they seemed OK, and I'm glad...

The whole time, I was thinking, man this is tight cramped work!

I thought that it seemed like it would be "easy" to take off the tank, remove the air box and whip out the whole bank of carbs (I'm de-smogged)... and
a joy to work on the carbs on a table instead of all crammed in there over the engine...

Does experience show that my assumption is wrong?

-Mike

[N0tac0p]

oh yeah...clymer manual says simply loosen the carb clamps and remove the air box from the rear.  yeh right.  ithink i woul dhave been better angling up and out to the front.  tiiiiiight

[John U.]

[/quote]

I haven't removed a single carb, or the whole bank, I'm guessing you have...

I was putting my gas tank back on this weekend after doing some work, and noticed that the carb overflow hoses on the left bank were cracked and loose, so I replaced
them. I checked the ones on the right bank, but I had to reach up in there and feel them to decide whether they were cracked or not, they seemed OK, and I'm glad...

The whole time, I was thinking, man this is tight cramped work!

I thought that it seemed like it would be "easy" to take off the tank, remove the air box and whip out the whole bank of carbs (I'm de-smogged)... and
a joy to work on the carbs on a table instead of all crammed in there over the engine...

Does experience show that my assumption is wrong?

-Mike

[/quote]


It is tight work. If you're planning to replace floats or valves, you're better to remove the carb bank. Jet replacement can be done with the carbs in place. Though of course the intake runners and filter box would need to be removed in either case.

It is possible for a faulty petcock to leak gas through the vacume hose to #6 without the carb being involved.
Good luck, let us know how it goes.
John

[scoobydoo]

just did a total rebuild of the carbs, real pain & lots of small springs. after I finished I tested the hole system before putting back on the bike. Good thing because 2 where still leaking. Removed the bowls and took a q-tip soaked in  seafoam and really cleaned the seats. (I dipped the hole disassembled carb during the rebuild but they didn't come clean enough.)
Bought new needle valves but at $25.00 each decided to clean the valves as well and try it. Tested again and no leaks, took the $150.00 valves back to the dealer.
So far so good.
Make sure you get the seats good and clean.

[N0tac0p]

had you been using seafoam all along?   i do so i am curious as to why there would be build up

[98valk]

had you been using seafoam all along?   i do so i am curious as to why there would be build up

IMHO seafoam is a waste of money. There are much better fuel cleaners out there at a lower cost, Regain is one of them. do a search and look for my posts. I provide the ingredients of it which is mostly alcohol. most of the gas today has ethanol in it. Read my post also about some of the components which can cause hydro-lock that are in sf.
sf has become a religion on various websites and the reason for the $5 increase in its price the last few yrs.

[Ricky-D]

sf has become a religion on various websites and the reason for the $5 increase in its price the last few yrs.

Boy, I'll say!

Used to be around six buck a can, now it's up to 11 dollars.

All happened within a year.

***

[gordonv]

had you been using seafoam all along?   i do so i am curious as to why there would be build up

IMHO seafoam is a waste of money. There are much better fuel cleaners out there at a lower cost, Regain is one of them. do a search and look for my posts.

Was interested so I did the search. Nothing. Spend a hour looking over CA's post and found it. Search under Regane instead. Will check it out further, when I have more time.

Thank you for the post.