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have to double pump clutch to build pressure?...

Started by upjeeper, Thu 20, May 2010, 22:38:32

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upjeeper

i've bled my clutch twice and i still have to double pump it sometimes to get enough pressure to shift. I'm thinking maybe a spring or the fork? either way i'd have to tear into it, right?

anything else it could be?

PAVALKER

I'm thinking you need to bleed it more or completely.  Did you install fresh fluid or stuff you had sitting on the shelf?  How did you bleed it?
John                           

John Schmidt

Spring or fork???  Not sure what you mean. When you bled the clutch line at the back of the engine, did you get a lot of bubbles? If there is a lot of miles on the bike it's also possible you need to rebuild the clutch master cylinder. When was the last time the hydraulic fluid was change for the clutch...or the brakes too for that matter?

upjeeper

first time i bled it I used a mityvac
second time I just pumped the clutch lever

both times I put all new / fresh fluid (bottle opened at that time) in (both times were within the last 2 months)

as far as spring there's a spring where the clutch line goes into the clutch case and the shift fork is inside the case

DFragn

Quote from: upjeeper on Thu 20, May 2010, 22:56:14
first time i bled it I used a mityvac
second time I just pumped the clutch lever

both times I put all new / fresh fluid (bottle opened at that time) in (both times were within the last 2 months)

as far as spring there's a spring where the clutch line goes into the clutch case and the shift fork is inside the case


There's no shift fork in the Slave Cylinder. There is a piston that pushes the Slave Pin through the clutch cover into the Lifter Plate to separate the clutch plates.
My guess, if it's not air in the system, is perhaps the Slave Cylinder 'piston' is failing. It would be unusual though.

R J

Get your mityvak out again, and keep the reservior FULL once you open the bleed valve until you close it.

DO NOT let it fall below 1/2 full.

YA GOT AIR IN DA LINE......
44 Harley ServiCar




 


9Ball

one trick to try is to get a large syringe and surgical tubing, fill with brake fluid, remove all air bubbles from syringe and tubing, then attach the tubing to your clutch bleeder.  Crack the bleeder slightly and force a little fluid into the system.  This will usually expel any stuck air bubbles in the upper portion of the clutch line and banjo connections into the reservoir.

Word of caution, make sure the reservoir isn't too full to avoid overflowing brake fluid out of the reservoir.

I've found this method to be helpful for those stubborn air bubbles.
VRCC #6897, Joined May, 2000

1999 Standard
2007 Rocket 3
2005 VTX 1300S

Jess Tolbirt

yep you still got air in the line,,,,
did you have to double pump it before you changed fluids? if not then it didn't break all by itself,,,
bleed it again and again for about 100 times then it will begin to work,,,these small hydrological systems are a pain when it comes to getting all the air out,,,
Valkyrie member # 23084
Started out on old forum on day one but lost my member number.

9Ball

Quote from: Jess Tolbirt on Fri 21, May 2010, 05:35:56
yep you still got air in the line,,,,
did you have to double pump it before you changed fluids? if not then it didn't break all by itself,,,
bleed it again and again for about 100 times then it will begin to work,,,these small hydrological systems are a pain when it comes to getting all the air out,,,

hydraulic systems are tough too..... ;D
VRCC #6897, Joined May, 2000

1999 Standard
2007 Rocket 3
2005 VTX 1300S

upjeeper

So I bled the lines 3 or 4 times. Rebuilt the clutch master cylinder and bled the lines 3 more times. Still I have to double pump the clutch.

Now i'm thinking the slave cylinder? Should I order the whole clutch slave cylinder (#5) or can I get buy with just a couple of seals and the spring? If so, which seals would you guys recommend?

hopefully someone has had similar problems?...


Cattman

Also take your clutch lever off the bike and check to make sure the brass sleeve isn't worn into an oval or oblong shape. Mine was after 67K and would not engage the safty switch. SpeedBleeders also help keep the air out. :cooldude:


upjeeper

Quote from: Cattman on Tue 27, Jul 2010, 10:17:18
Also take your clutch lever off the bike and check to make sure the brass sleeve isn't worn into an oval or oblong shape. Mine was after 67K and would not engage the safty switch. SpeedBleeders also help keep the air out. :cooldude:

Thanks Cattman, very good suggestion, but that was the first and cheapest thing I did. Murphy says it can't be that easy  :(