Accessing vacuum lines?

[redflash]

Morning folks, the BRoot, an '03 standard, fast black, 65K miles, had a #3 vacuum leak, causing the exhaust to pop on deceleration and idle a wee bit rough. I fixed her up quick by pulling the line off the port and slipping a piece of heat shrink over the line to stop the leak from a burn hole in the line. I bought some new line but can't get my paws into the area to remove the old one from the tee. How do you folks go about this? I'd like to replace as much line in there as possible without digging out the airbox and such.

[R J]

Find someone with little hands, or do a desmog while ya got the airbox off............

[Thunderbolt]

http://www.valkyrieriders.com/shoptalk/AirBox%20VentHose/venthose.htm

if all you want to do is replace the lines.

[hubcapsc]

http://www.valkyrieriders.com/shoptalk/AirBox%20VentHose/venthose.htm

if all you want to do is replace the lines.

I was with Stanley Steamer when he used "the string trick", it worked well...

He had a "redeye" kit (http://redeye.ecrater.com/c/1086116/vacuum-lines-caps), so he
didn't have to make up the various hoses... that made it easier, everything fit - both tube diameter and
length...

Not long ago, I replaced my carb drain lines on the left side because they were rotten and loose. It is tight
up in there.. I couldn't even see the carb connection for the ones on the right side - I just
felt up in there and decided they were OK...

-Mike

[wd40]

I bought a set of long 8" needlenose pliers from Harbor Freight.  I have straight, curved and 90 degree.   Keep a couple in the saddle bag just in case.  They are great for vac lines, fuel line, tank vent etc.  Like having a pair of really long, skinny fingers!

[PharmBoy]

+1 on the long needle nose plyers from Harbor Freight.  They keep your fingers from getting burned and skinned, even if you have little hands...JTL