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Tie downs

Started by Shotgun, Thu 05, Aug 2010, 18:34:29

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Shotgun

I'm taking the Lake Express ferry from Muskegon to Manitowoc on Saturday.  I have to tie my bike down and as crazy as it seems, I've never tied the bike down before because I just rode it everywhere.  I'm all concerned about tying it down.  I have soft tie downs and plan on using them.  Do I tie them around the fork?  Everyone I talk to says the handlebars are a no-no and I think I agree with that.  I think they tell you to keep the kickstand down and tie down the front.  How far should I compress the shocks?  I don't want to put too much pressure on the stand.  Any advice you can give me will be appreciated.

Red Diamond

I have always tied from the handle bars. Don't attach the straps to the upper end of the bars, but rather as close to the risers as they will stay. No problems at all. Compress about 1 1/2" to 2" and tiedown the rear.

If you are riding  and it is a must that you keep your eyes on the road, you are riding too fast.

Michvalk

And DO NOT leave the stand down!!!!!!

RP#62

And don't forget to turn the petcock OFF.
-RP
 

Red Diamond

And if you don't have a wheel chock, tie the front wheel.

If you are riding  and it is a must that you keep your eyes on the road, you are riding too fast.

Shotgun

What does turning the petcock off really do?  One of the mechanics I know says that since it is vacuum operated, it really doesn't matter if you turn it on or off. 

RP#62

The the floats in the carbs bounce around and dribble fuel into the cylinders. Its not completely logical to me but I have seen several instances of hydrolock occuring following trailering without the petcock turned off.
-RP
 

IamGCW

Take some electrical tape and tape the open hooks so if the strap loosens it won't come off.  Also twist the straps 1/2 turn or more from top to bottom so they won't vibrate to much in the wind.  And finally tape the excess strap to keep it in place.  You don't want a strap tail whipping the paint.  I have tied to the handle bars for years and never had a problem.  I also use six straps. Two at the handle bars, two at the crash bars, and two at the rear frame.  I use a HF front wheel chock that locks in the wheel.  Also I don't use the anchor points for more than one strap.  After you are done shake the bike like you hate it.  It should be one with the trailer.  Fuel off as mentioned.

There were photos some year ago from a Texas rider who showed his methods.  Search the board. 
Gil
uıɐƃɐ ʎɐqǝ ɟɟo pɹɐoqʎǝʞ ɐ ʎnq ɹǝʌǝu ןן,ı

Shotgun

How far should I compress the front fork?

hubcapsc

Quote from: Shotgun on Fri 06, Aug 2010, 10:44:03
How far should I compress the front fork?

It is very possible to tighten them too much.

Tighten them enough that when you grab your bars you can rock the whole truck and the bike doesn't move.

Don't tighten them so hard that your eye-hooks are wanting to yank out of the stake pockets.

Don't tighten them so hard that the front of your bed is permanently deforming from where the front wheel is
touching it.



-Mike

stormrider

I would tie down from the engine guard. Just my 2cent. And never put the stand down when tying down.
Freedom will ultimately cost more than we care to pay but will be worth every drop of blood to those who follow and cherrish it.

Chrisj CMA

not only turn the gas off, but drain the bowls if possible so theres no gas in case the needle valves bounce.......

Gryphon Rider

I tie down the front of the bike at the forks, just above the lower triple clamp.  You can't get any more solid than that.  I always tie down the bike vertical, OFF the side stand.

mikeb

Quote from: RP#62 on Thu 05, Aug 2010, 19:47:05
The the floats in the carbs bounce around and dribble fuel into the cylinders. Its not completely logical to me but I have seen several instances of hydrolock occuring following trailering without the petcock turned off.
-RP
this one has  always made me think. dont the carbs bounce then we are riding them ? i have found that it is more the pressure that the gas splashing around in the tank makes than carbs bouncing
on the 1981 gl1100 my but ride we leave the cap one click loose when stored after it hydrolocked two times after big temp changes do to storms in our area . take gas and put it in a pop bottle then shake it and see if it dont start ito make pressure. or even a gas can sitting in the sun ... more to think about?
i dont care what you ride just ride
mike & kari
mivrcc capital city leader
s.s.d.d.

RP#62

I probably shouldn't have speculated why it does it, because I don't understand the mechanism, but I know it does it from seeing it happen several times.  Something to do with the bike bouncing around while the engine isn't running.
-RP
 

9Ball


He's taking a ferry boat ride, not trailering in a truck or on a trailer....good advice, but if he can rock that fast boat his name is Clark Kent.....

Quote from: hubcapsc on Fri 06, Aug 2010, 11:16:13
Quote from: Shotgun on Fri 06, Aug 2010, 10:44:03
How far should I compress the front fork?

It is very possible to tighten them too much.

Tighten them enough that when you grab your bars you can rock the whole truck and the bike doesn't move.

Don't tighten them so hard that your eye-hooks are wanting to yank out of the stake pockets.

Don't tighten them so hard that the front of your bed is permanently deforming from where the front wheel is
touching it.



-Mike
VRCC #6897, Joined May, 2000

1999 Standard
2007 Rocket 3
2005 VTX 1300S

IamGCW

I usually have the forks compressed about 1". 
Gil
uıɐƃɐ ʎɐqǝ ɟɟo pɹɐoqʎǝʞ ɐ ʎnq ɹǝʌǝu ןן,ı

Shotgun