My first Dragon

[Danny]

Hello everyone, just got a 2002 Dragon hand me down with 68k. Its a good looking machine, black on chrome with nice accessories. There is one problem however the bike has not been touched in 2.5 years. I was a auto tech for 6 years so tinkering on things is no problem for me but I have never worked on a motorcyle. I have just finished some basic maintenance like oil and filter, plugs, battery...drained out the tank and carbs. It at least now fires up on full choke and smells really rich, however any throttle or attempts dechoke and it sputters out. There is a small leak by the fuel shut off valve... I have plans to rebuild it if I can get a kit. Another big problem is I think the carbs are junked up, I have worked on carbs before but never six of them at once...what are some main things to look for and consider. I pulled off one of the round carb covers and found a large rubber diaphram and a lengthy spring, howevder being a newbie to bike work I did not go any further. Any info will help at this point. thanks

[Bone]

Hello.
Scroll to the top of the page and click on Shoptalk. You will find answers to many questions you will have. The rebuild kit is available for the fuel valve (petcock). I just bought one for my 98 Tourer. The fuel system will gum up if left sitting with untreated fuel.
You really need a manual.  There was one available on-line, I've lost most of my Links in a HD crash I will see what I can find.

[fat6man]

Here is a small parts list I have:
   Oil Filter Honda Part # 15410-MFJ-D01
   Mobil 1 Synthetic 10W30 (4 quart capacity)
   Spark Plugs (Honda / NGK) Plug # DPR7EA-9

   Front Wheel Bearings (2 Pc.) 6204-2RS
   Front Wheel Dust Seal- Honda #91258-ML7-003
Speedometer Side

(45mm x 55mm x5mm)
   Front Wheel Oil Seal- Honda #91252-MC4-013
[Right Side] (28mm x 47.2mm x 7mm)

   Rear Wheel Bearings [1 pc. 6204-2RS] & [1 pc. 3204-2RS or 5204-2RS] Stock
Rear Wheel Bearing Modification uses [2 pc. 3204-2RS or 5204-2RS] No Seal
   Rear Wheel Dust Seal- Honda #91253-443-762 (30mm x 47mm x 8mm)
   Rear Wheel Thrust Washer [Teflon]- Honda #42616-MAJ-G20

   Final Drive O-ring- Honda #91358-MG9-003 (50.5mm x 3.5mm)
   Final Drive O-ring- Honda #91304-KT8-003 (61mm x 2mm)
   Final Drive O-ring- Honda # 91356-MG9-003 (39.5mm x 2.4mm)

   Water Pump to Engine Block O-ring / Honda #91302-MB0-013 (32.95mm X2.62mm)
   Water Pump Coolant Drain Copper Washer (6.5mm ID) Honda #90463-ML7-000
   Water Inlet Pipe to Engine Block O-ring (2) Honda #91301-147-023 (18.3mm x 2.3mm)
See Drawing # H01860009 (Water Pump- Item #11) in Valk_Drawings Folder.


http://sites.google.com/site/valkparts/       www.RedEyeTechServices.com   
   Honda OEM Petcock Vacuum Line (#6 Intake to Petcock) Purchased from Redeye Online
   Petcock Repair Kit (K&L #FCK-41)  Purchased from Redeye Online
   Intake Runner O-ring Kit / 6 Viton-GF o-rings   Purchased from Redeye Online
Intake O-ring size – 2.4mm x 29mm
   Complete Carburetor O-ring Kit / $62.00 on redeye.eCrater.com
   Pilot Screw Tool - BENCH ADJUST / Purchase from Redeye Online
   The 14mm freeze plugs for de-smog can be purchased at NAPA. Part # 3812163

Hope this will hepl somwhat, I would also change all the vacuum lines.

[John U.]

Hello TraumaEMTP
Honda also makes a rebuild kit for the petcock, it's called a "cover set". You will likely need a new screen as well, it must be ordered separately. Take a look on Honda Directline's website microfische, it's all there.
Many replace with a Pingle petcock. You'll have to reach a bit to turn the fuel on but they are less troublesome than the OEMs.

Check your vacume lines, plugs and the intake tube O-rings as well. Read up on the "desmog mod" in shop talk. It will eliminate most of the vacume lines which will eventually cause leaks.
Tighten the clamps on the rubber tubes which connect the carbs to the chrome intake tubes and the carbs to the airbox, they will probably need it.
The slow jets on the Valkyrie carbs are prone to clogging up. I blame ethanol, but tank rust can play a part as well. For a bike that's been sitting a long time it may be easier to replace them. Chapparal is the cheapest source, Sudco has them also. The OEM's are 35s for a Keihn carb. A lot of us replace with 38s. They are a bit more clog resistant and help eliminate a flat spot.
First, you can try HEAVY doses of Techron fuel system cleaner. You might get lucky.
Consider a auxilliary fuel filter. A failure of the petcock and one or more carb float valves can cause hydrolock which will break expensive parts and require expensive  labor (or a lot of your own labor) to repair.

You need to remove the rear wheel and relube the final drive, replace final drive O-rings as you clean the old grease. Drain and replace the gear oil in the pumkin.

Brake and clutch fluid should be replaced every two years.
You can download a service manual at http://www.valkyrienorway.com/

Oh yeah, welcome to the VRCC and congrats on your purchase of the greatest cruiser ever made.

[Ricky-D]

Hello everyone, just got a 2002 Dragon hand me down with 68k. Its a good looking machine, black on chrome with nice accessories. There is one problem however the bike has not been touched in 2.5 years. I was a auto tech for 6 years so tinkering on things is no problem for me but I have never worked on a motorcyle. I have just finished some basic maintenance like oil and filter, plugs, battery...drained out the tank and carbs. It at least now fires up on full choke and smells really rich, however any throttle or attempts dechoke and it sputters out. There is a small leak by the fuel shut off valve... I have plans to rebuild it if I can get a kit. Another big problem is I think the carbs are junked up, I have worked on carbs before but never six of them at once...what are some main things to look for and consider. I pulled off one of the round carb covers and found a large rubber diaphram and a lengthy spring, howevder being a newbie to bike work I did not go any further. Any info will help at this point. thanks

I would suggest you do nothing mechanical to the carburetors until after several good doses of Techron, B-12 or some other good carburetor cleaner.

You have no idea of the "Pandora's Box" you will open when fooling with the carburetors!

Get a petcock kit or better still a Pingle petcock.

If you can get the motor running, poorly as it is, try to ride and nurse it along and the performance will improve. I promise, and that will be before doing any adjustments. Consider that it was running Ok before the down time so no adjustments are necessary.

***

[Danny]

Thank you everyone. Got a petcock kit and going to try the fuel stabilizer and inline fuel filter. I'll try these and will will update the blog as I go. On a better look into the tank there is some rust so unfortunately I still think carb rebuild is still in my upcoming future. I'm excited and want to get it running quickly, so the more infor and help the better. Thanks again

Daniel

[Ricky-D]

In previous reports on this forum:

In-line filters cause as many problems and more so, than they questionably fix!

Take the tank off and clean the inside to remove all the crap. Use aids to help the process.

The screen on the petcock is adequate to keep crud from getting to the carburetors.

The band-aid approach is a poor substitute for doing the correct process.

***

[TearlessTom]

In previous reports on this forum:

In-line filters cause as many problems and more so, than they questionably fix!

Take the tank off and clean the inside to remove all the crap. Use aids to help the process.

The screen on the petcock is adequate to keep crud from getting to the carburetors.

The band-aid approach is a poor substitute for doing the correct process.

***

I have to go with Ricky on this. I had a VTX1300 and tried a in line filter and it restricted the flow so much I had major issues and put on the side of the road a few times. I took it off and no more issues. Bike was just starving for fuel. These bikes are gravity fed not fuel pump fed. I can only imaging that the Valk with 6 small carbs would be effected even more as less fuel left in bowls.

[Danny]

Uh Oh...I added the fuel syster cleaner the B12 ran it for awhile and it seemed like throttle response was getting better, however today I went to start it up and fuel is coming out of the exhaust. Just when I though things were going good. Thanks for the help on the inline filter....going to withold installing one after a little more research.

[Disco]

It feels weird to say, "Welcome Trauma!", so Welcome TraumaEMTP!

Search these tech archives for posts from laserpat about the Yamaha product he used very successfully to clean the jets on his second Valkyrie.

[Farther]

Turn your petcock off when you park it and put a cover kit in the petcock soon.  You probably have a carb float stuck too.  I sounds like you may have just dodged a hydrolock.

[Tropic traveler]

Turn your petcock off when you park it and put a cover kit in the petcock soon.  You probably have a carb float stuck too.  I sounds like you may have just dodged a hydrolock.

Yup.
Betcha a nickel you have fuel in the oil too. Be real careful running it until you fix the fuel problems.

The 2 1/2 years sitting worries me. Nothing that can't be overcome but it will take some work. Tank rust is most likely the root of your problem.
Rust in tank... gets by bad petcock....gets into carb bowl{s}.....lodges under one or more needle/seat assemblies....fills one or more cylinders with fuel....either hydrolocks or runs out/spews out exhaust, undoubtably gets past rings into oil.
Pull the tank. Pull the petcock off the tank. Inspect rusty/nasty collapsed filter screen. Inspect inside of tank. Tank can be cleaned & coated by a good radiator shop, check around. Replace screen, rebuild or replace petcock. Inspect and/or replace fuel lines while you're there.
Pull carb bank, clean gunk from all 6 bowls, clean or replace offending needle/seats, clean jets, do a desmog while you're there too. You most likely will not need new carb bowl gaskets. I haven't yet.
It aint easy but I've done 2 so far.
Carb bank off.


Nasty gunked up carb bowl, this is AFTER a quick wipe!


This is the '70s era Ford fuel filter I added. Has worked for me real well.


Pile of parts removed from a desmog!


Looks much cleaner now!


Nasty gunked up fuel screen.


Rusty tank after cleaning & coating. All purty inside!


Put it all back together with a new air filter too!
Oh yeah... change the oil.

[Tundra]

Danny, Bring the bike to me, (with the $68,000) Should have it running soon 
  Seriously, you've come to the right place. You've got a wealth of knowledge here.
Congratulations on your new bike and Welcome 

[highcountry]

Welcome aboard!  While you have the tank off, install a quick disconnect kit on it.  You need to remove the tank to change the air filter which you need to check now anyway.  Personally, I would take the petcock rebuild kit back and install a Pingel.  The OEM petcock is a piece of stamped metal junk.

Quick disconnect kit:
http://redeye.ecrater.com/p/2063367/quick-disconnect-kit-version-3v-for

Petcock (see post #7 for store with the best price that I found):
http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,11292.0.html

Good luck!