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Clutch Reservoir

Started by Baldwin, Mon 11, Oct 2010, 16:39:31

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Baldwin

I was in the process of spraying some contact cleaner in my Control Box on the handlebars to resolve my inability to transmit when I noticed that the clutch reservoir appears to be empty or very very low.  I checked the manual and it says to take it to the dealership.  Is that something that I really need to take to the dealership?  Can I just add more fluid?  I realize there may be a leak in the system that would require the dealership to fix.

Just looking for some advice.
Jim Baldwin
2000 Valkyrie Interstate

Chrisj CMA

Well, for the advise to be good there would be some more info needed.........how long since fluid was known to be at the proper level?  What if anything has been done to the clutch or the master cylinder?  If a significant amount of fluid is gone....it went somewhere......any fluid drips or greasy spots around the slave cylinder?  Any function problems with the clutch?

Steve (Stormrider) just had the same thing happen....maybe by now he has found out what happened on his bike

Baldwin

So, to be truthful, I'm not sure that I have ever looked at since owning the bike (2 years).   :-[

No fluid on the floor and no issues with the clutch. 

I think I am going to take it in on Wednesday, just for the piece of mind.
Jim Baldwin
2000 Valkyrie Interstate

Chrisj CMA

Well, If you have no issues with function and you havent looked at the level since you go the bike...chances are its just like it has been for a while or you probably would have noticed something change.  Fill it up and keep an eye on it.  If it drops again and you cannot see fluid at the back of the motor or at the master cylinder.......then maybe take it in if you arent comfortable troubleshooting.   Its a shame to pay someone $130.00 an hour to fill your master cylinder, but its your money

Baldwin

So, what fluid do I need to fill it with? 
Jim Baldwin
2000 Valkyrie Interstate

shortleg

    Use Dot 4 fluid,also turn your bars stright.
Can you see the fluid level when that is done?
  You may just need to top it off.
          Shortleg[Dave]

Valkpilot

Quote from: Baldwin on Mon 11, Oct 2010, 16:39:31
I was in the process of spraying some contact cleaner in my Control Box on the handlebars to resolve my inability to transmit when I noticed that the clutch reservoir appears to be empty or very very low.  I checked the manual and it says to take it to the dealership.  Is that something that I really need to take to the dealership?  Can I just add more fluid?  I realize there may be a leak in the system that would require the dealership to fix.

Just looking for some advice.

If you're coming to the East Texas/DFW wrench party on Nov 6, we can take a look at it then.
VRCC #19757
IBA #44686
1998 Black Standard
2007 Goldwing 
 
   

GOOSE

baldwin........listen to these guys..... they speak the TRUTH.  add some fluid, and watch.  i will bet that it has been low since you have had the bike.  if the level does not go down, and you do not see any leaks, then you know...but after you know change the fluid.   save your money.

Baldwin

I appreciate the responses.  I tried turning the bars straight and still don't see anything.  I'll pick up some fluid and top it off tomorrow and see what happens.

Jim Baldwin
2000 Valkyrie Interstate

Thunderbolt

I have my bars tilted down, so in order to get the line level I need to loosen the bar clamps and re-align in order to check the fluid.  Yours might be the same.  Fill to the line when the reservoir is level.  If it has been two years since you changed it, you probably should change it out.  Especially if it appears to be yellowish in color.  That indicates that it has absorbed water.  Buy yourself a mighty-vac and you can take out the old from the clutch bleed opening just above the alternator.  Use Dot-4 as was suggested.

Challenger

Or it could be over full and you just can't tell that the the fluid is in the window.

ricoman

If there are no leaks visible, I would surmise it is just very low. As noted above, handle bar position can effect what is visible in the reservoir, as can the bike being vertical.
Remember, as your brake pads wear, there is more room in the wheel cylinder for fluid, thus the fluid in the master will drop. Thye opposite is that when you install new pads, there is often a need to let some fluid out of the master cyl. because when you compress the brake pistons to get the new pads in, the fluid will (can) cause the master cyl. to be over full.
Could be your rear brakes are pretty worn.
I'd look at that.
take personal responsibility and keep your word



98 Tourer, black and chrome, added 8/11/10
98 Std, yellow/cream, totaled 8/3/10

Spirited-6

Quote from: shortleg on Mon 11, Oct 2010, 19:07:09
    Use Dot 4 fluid,also turn your bars stright.
Can you see the fluid level when that is done?
  You may just need to top it off.
          Shortleg[Dave]

As to turn your bars "stright" depends on a lot of things.  :-\ Just turn your bars until the REV. Window is level and read from there.  ;) I.E. Ape hangers and you will NEVER get level.  :evil:
Spirited-6

JetDriver

Quote from: ricoman on Wed 13, Oct 2010, 15:01:27

Remember, as your brake pads wear, there is more room in the wheel cylinder for fluid, thus the fluid in the master will drop. Thye opposite is that when you install new pads, there is often a need to let some fluid out of the master cyl. because when you compress the brake pistons to get the new pads in, the fluid will (can) cause the master cyl. to be over full.
Could be your rear brakes are pretty worn.
I'd look at that.

We're talking about the clutch, right?  He's already admitted he's not super comfortable wrenching on his bike; let's not confuse him.  As far as the fluid, I find it hard to find DOT 4 anymore, but there is a synthetic combo fluid, DOT 3 & 4, that works just fine.  Tie a piece of t-shirt, or rag of some kind around the master cylinder before opening it, or stuff paper towels all around it, enough of them so it's tight.  Super easy to do- it's two screws.  If a little fluid should run out, the rags will catch it.  Brake/clutch fluid eats paint. ;)

Baldwin

Yes, we are talking about the clutch reservoir.  I'm fine with wrenching on the bike, just needed some direction.  I'm going to tackle this problem on Saturday as I want to ride the bike on Friday (tomorrow) and since everything is working fine, I don't want to chance it.  Saturday I will remove the reservoir from the handlebars and lay it straight and open it up.  Probably add the fluid and watch for drips.

I've wrenched on many a Jeeps and I am aware of the corrosive behavior of brake fluid.   There will be plenty of plastic bags covering the paint and chrome.

I appreciate all the responses.
Jim Baldwin
2000 Valkyrie Interstate

vanagon40

There is no need to remove the reservoir from the handlebars.  If the reservoir is not perfectly level, it is not a problem.  Topping off a non-level reservoir will provide plenty of fluid for proper operation (and visibility in the sight glass).

tybme

Quote from: Thunderbolt on Tue 12, Oct 2010, 07:38:40
Buy yourself a mighty-vac and you can take out the old from the clutch bleed opening just above the alternator. 

I purchased speed bleeders for my 'Wing and plan on doing the same for the Valk. They make changing fluid so VERY easy. Simply loosen the valve - pump away - tighten valve when complete - nothing else to it.
Life's journey is not to arrive at the grave safely in a well preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways. totally worn out, shouting, "Holy ****... What a Ride!"


JetDriver

I agree with vanagon-  If you remove the reservoir, you're turning it into 5 times the job it really is.  Turn the handlebars so the reservoir is as level as it will go.  It won't be perfect, but it doesn't matter.  Take the two screws out of the lid, add fluid, screw the lid back on.  5 minute job.

RonW

#18
Quote from: tybme on Fri 15, Oct 2010, 16:27:06
I purchased speed bleeders for my 'Wing and plan on doing the same for the Valk. They make changing fluid so VERY easy. Simply loosen the valve - pump away - tighten valve when complete - nothing else to it.
+1

   

*Btw, I bought my SpeedBleeders from the owner's website.

https://ssl.zoovy.com/speedbleeder/c=RugJX6QP87yuzkrM7MNqWAmmF/s=speedbleeder.zoovy.com/

Item number SB8125L or SB8125LL. "L" = long. "LL" = extra long. Refers to the length of the nipple to facilitate attaching the bleed tube.
2000 Valkyrie Tourer

Firefighter

I thought my Valk clutch fluid was low also, sure don't want to loose the clutch out on the road, but when I went to fill it, I found there was a stain across the sight glass. The stain on the inside was probably from old fluid, anyway I had to look real close to see the fluid was full. Yea!! No Leak!
2000 Valkyrie Interstate, Black/Red
2006 Honda Sabre 1100
2013 Honda Spirit 750
2002 Honda Rebel 250
1978 Honda 750

Baldwin

Well, mine was really low.  I had to remove the reservoir to fill it up and it is still not completely full, but it is now about the line.
Jim Baldwin
2000 Valkyrie Interstate

RonW

Have you double-checked the clutch bleed valve? It's that chrome spout in the hollow of the inseam between the side covers, below the fuel valve. Has the same rubber cap that's on the brake caliper bleeder valve.
2000 Valkyrie Tourer

Ricky-D

Quote from: Baldwin on Sat 16, Oct 2010, 23:33:54
Well, mine was really low.  I had to remove the reservoir to fill it up and it is still not completely full, but it is now about the line.

That's probably all I would do also.

Barring any evidence of leaks around the clutch actuator assembly on the clutch cover at the rear of the motor and/or any leaks around where the lines connect at the handlebars or the other end I would do no more yet.

Keep an eye on the reservoir and cap to be sure there is absolutely no leaks. It may be hard to see and the only give away might be dust and dirt collecting where the fluid is seeping.

There can be few answers as to the low level in the reservoir but there should be no rush to judgment to start to changing thing out.

If it is determined that the actuator assembly is the cause of the leak, the fluid getting bye the seals, it will go directly into a mix with the motor oil in which case it is not that serious since the clutch fluid is such a small amount mixed in with the oil. 

The larger problem would be that the leak in the actuator could get worse and cause you to lose the clutch disengagement.

Whatever it turns out to be, it will not become evident right away. So just keep an observant posture. It may turn out to be nothing, Maybe the bike fell over and leaked out that fluid from the master cylinder and was never discovered?

Who knows!

***
2000_Valkyrie_Interstate

Quicksilver

Thanks to this thread and advice I just changed all the brake fluid and clutch fluid. It was an orange color, I guess it was due. Not too difficult, just took the caps off the reservoirs , attached a clear hose to the nipples, opened the bleader valves under pressure, closed them again before releasing handle, kept adding fluid and repeating procedure until oil was clear at discharge end. :cooldude:
1997  Standard


ricoman

I just reread this post. I realize I answered it the first time as if there was a problem with the rear brake reservoir.
Do I feel stoopid, and either nobody read my miss-answer or all were too nice to point it out.
Either way- I'm not normally that dumb!
take personal responsibility and keep your word



98 Tourer, black and chrome, added 8/11/10
98 Std, yellow/cream, totaled 8/3/10