New fuse block

[busser]

I did a search already for info on installing a fuse block on a standard. It will have a relay before the block. Question is: Do I need to install additional relays "after" the fuse block for driving lights and 2 stebel air horns? Also, can I run both horns from one relay? Thanks. The Busser

[fudgie]

I'm not sure but I think I would. If the relay goes out at the block you loose everything. Relay at the lights go out everything but the lights will work. Last summer my relay went out at my block and I lost my tunes and radar detector. Both which are required for me!  Carry a spare relay also.

[blackvalk]

Why is it necessary to have a relay before the block? Why not have a relay for the individual mods being added?

Where did you find the Fuse Block? How much was it and how many electrical mods can be added to the block?

Bill

[sandy]

Radio Shack sells a 40 amp relay. I run air horns (18 amp) plus a GPS, highway lights (2-36 watt + 2 20 watt halogen), and a power port (5 amp). Haven't had a problem in several years. Use at least 10 gauge wire (30 amp rating) and fuse it at the battery. As to the "one relay" comment. It's just easier/simpler to wire up and works just fine with fewer parts. You trigger the relay with the ACC wires under the right side cover.

[busser]

I got the fuse block from "electricalconnection.com" It has 6 circuits and was $64.28 with shipping.
It comes with a relay between it and the battery. The Busser

[GOOSE]

go to advance autoparts and just buy the 6-fuse universal fuse block for 1/4 of that... only thing is it does not come with a relay.

[MarkT]

I have a 10-circuit block from NAPA for $20 or so.  I would have got a bigger one if I found it. No relay before the block, I want it simple and reliable.  Relays after the block where appropriate.  I have around a dozen relays around the bike for various circuits.  They have almost never failed in 13 years.

[Kingbee]

Here's a simple Buss brand fuse block I got at NAPA, controlled by a universal 40 amp relay.

[blackvalk]

A fuse block on a relay seems like a good idea vs. a circuit block with individual relays. Overall probably less expensive and just as effective.

Kingbee, I may give you a call for some help one morning or afternoon so I get this done right. Once the block is in, I will have spare circuits for other electrical mods so I don't overtax the starter switch.

I will pick up a block, connectors and misc. wire. Then we can take a ride.........................

Bill

[Kingbee]

Be glad to help, Bill

[Madmike]

Question is: Do I need to install additional relays "after" the fuse block for driving lights and 2 stebel air horns? Also, can I run both horns from one relay? Thanks. The Busser

Why is it necessary to have a relay before the block? Why not have a relay for the individual mods being added?

Not sure that these questions were answered:

The advantage of a power supply relay is that it will enable you to ensure that the fuse block and all attached circuits are shut off with the key so that if you leave something on the battery shouldn't be dead when you come back to the bike. 

Additional  relays after the fuse panel will enable you to control (switch) heavier loads (driving lights, horns etc.) with a light (smaller gage wire) control circuit through a switch. 

If you use standard relays and relay holders to do you wiring then if you carry one spare relay that is capable of handling the power to the fuse panel (40 Amp) then it will plug in to any other relay holder that you have and can be used for any load.  Alternatively if you have a relay failure on the road you can always pull a relay from a location that you can live without and move it into the failed circuit.  The relay acts as a switch and the circuit should be protected by fuse on the supply wire to it, if worst comes to worst you can get by with removing the relay and then put in a jumper from the supply side of the relay to the load circuit wire and the circuit will still be protected by the fuse - remember to ensure that the circuit is de-energised when you park the bike.

[OverdueBill]

+1 Madmike.  My "extras" are powered off the aux block.  If I lose any of them, the bike will still work like it did originally.  It will get you home no problems.  The bike will work just fine without the stebel, the fog lights, the power point.  I try to stay out of the bikes original wiring.  Mostly.

[blackvalk]

I'm learning an aweful lot from this thread. I've purchased the fuse block and a few misc. relays and some misc. gauge wire from the attached company. The pricing seemed way good after seeing some of the fuse block prices in this thread.

See what you think.
http://www.wiringproducts.com/contents/en-us/d136.html?gclid=CMX-hdHV5aQCFQV2gwoddkQV2A

Bill

[maniscar]

I've used wiringproducts.com in the past with no problems.  I more recently used DelCity.net
  http://www.delcity.net/store/Fuse-Blocks/p_176.a_1][url]http://www.delcity.net/store/Fuse-Blocks/p_176.a_1[/url]
Most times the prices are cheaper at delcity.net

Just an FYI...

   Rich

[maniscar]

opps. link should be:
  http://www.delcity.net/store/Fuse-Blocks/p_176.a_1

[blackvalk]

You're right, Delcity is cheaper!

[PhredValk]

I have a 6 hole fuse block on a relay for accessories like IPod and gps, probably a cig lighter and power port in the trunk. I will use a separate fusible link directly from the battery thru relays for anything that is controlled from a switch, like horns or lights. That would let me use things like the horn button without worrying about increased amps thru the switch.
Fred.