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Inzane 17

How much fork oil

Started by TJ, Tue 16, Nov 2010, 09:16:52

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TJ

goes in an I/S with progressive springs???  ???

TearlessTom

Here are the stock numbers, Progressive says to use these #'s,  Many of us find this too firm so subtact a little to taste.

Right Fork:
RECOMMENDED FORK FLUID:
Pro Honda Suspension Fluid SS-8
FORK FLUID CAPACITY:
GLI 500CICT:
670 +- 2.5 cm3 122.7 4 0.08 US oz, 23.65 0.09 fmp OZ)
G C1500CF:
-- 669 f- 2.5 cm3 (22.6 f 0.08 US oz, 23.5 4 0.09 Imp oz)

FORK FLUID LEVEL: GL1 5OOC/CT: 135 mm (5.3 in)
GL7500CF: 136 rnm (5.4 in)


Left Fork:

RECOMMENDED FORK FLUID:
Pro Honda Suspension Fluid SS-8
FORK FLUID CAPACITY:
GLI 500C/CT:
744k 2.5 cm3 (25.2 2 0.08 US oz, 26.2 + 0.09 Imp oz)
GL1500CF:
7345 2.5cm3 (24.8k0.08 US oz, 25.8+0.09Imp oz)
NOTE
Support the fork leg vertically and the fork compressed
fully whenever measuring the fluid level.
Measure the fluid level from the top of the fork tube.
FORK FLUID LEVEL: GL1500C/CT: 142 mm (5.6 in)
GL1500CF: 148 mm (5.8 in)

Skinhead

Anybody use transmission fluid instead of the Honda fork oil?  Just wondered if the HFO was refined from unobtainium, they price it like it was.

Friendsville, TN - Troy, MI

TearlessTom

Quote from: Skinhead on Tue 16, Nov 2010, 10:02:24
Anybody use transmission fluid instead of the Honda fork oil?  Just wondered if the HFO was refined from unobtainium, they price it like it was.

I asked this question when I was doing mine also. Never found anyone who knew the absolute answer.

I think it may have more to do with how much pressure  and heat the oil can take and disperse more over how much lubrication. 

For me the job is a big enough PTA that ai went with what is reccommended. I am sure Ma Honda has done a little research as well as all the other motorcycle companies.

Not feeling like a guinnie pig myself.

Tom

hubcapsc


I used transmission fluid in the forks of my rat bikes when I was a kid...

Unless something goes wrong, you won't have to go back in there for years, I'd use real fork oil in your awesome
Valkyrie, which you're trying to make even awesomer with Progressive springs...

-Mike

Jess from VA

In researching this subject a while ago, I discovered that of all the fork oils for sale, regardless of listed weight (10-15-20-etc), different fork oils give differing ride quality (stiffness) even if they are the same listed oil weight. 

I agree wholeheartedly with the advice to use a little less oil in each fork than called for, regardless of 10 or 15 wt oil used.  How much less I do not know (2 ounces?)

My first set of Progressive springs (done by dealer) was stiff and jarring as hell on all but smooth pavement for about 18 months before it started to settle down (Honda oil at exact quantities called for).  My other bike came with Progressive springs and has always rode smooth as silk.... and I have no idea of what quantity or weight or brand name of oil was used.

GOOSE

tj....unless you take the forks off of the bike, and completly disassemble them, you can't just put in x-number of cc's of fork oil back in because it will be overfilled. you need to use the method of so many inches from the top of the fork tube...... example:   with progressive springs:  with fork tubes off of the bike, and verticle with no springs in tubes and tubes compressed you want 5 1/2 inches from top mof tube to oil level.  then extend tubes open to make room for springs.....put springs in with tight wound coils facing toward the top.   put on caps, and reinstall. :)

TJ

Tubes are off the bike... Replacing all bushings , seals & guides....

PAVALKER

I did that project last year, Progressive springs, new seals, bushings etc.  What I found in both the Valk and VTX... is that one fork tube had what appeared to be regular oil or light gear oil and the other tube had what appeared to be red trans fluid (and I can't remember which fork had the red fluid in but the appearance, texture and smell indicated that).  I used AMSOIL fork oil in the replacement process, and a little bit more than what was called for.  Its a nice firm ride.
John                           

98valk

1998 Std/Tourer, 2007 DR200SE, 1981 CB900C  10speed
1973 Duster 340 4-speed rare A/C, 2001 F250 4x4 7.3L, 6sp

"Our Constitution was made only for a Moral and Religious people. It is wholly inadequate to the goverment of any other."
John Adams 10/11/1798

BigM

I think the wt. of the oil has a lot to do with it also. I did the progressive changeover and wish I had put more oil in. Not as stiff as would like to have them. I did use fork oil. Don't remember the wt.

Smokinjoe-VRCCDS#0005

Did you get yourself another Valkyrie TJ ?


I've seen alot of people that thought they were cool , but then again Lord I've seen alot of fools.

RonW

while we're on the topic, where would you get the "lock nut wrench (44mm)" for the LEFT FORK's inner fork bolt? Thankx, in advance.

2000 Valkyrie Tourer

hubcapsc

Quote from: RONW on Thu 25, Nov 2010, 01:53:35
while we're on the topic, where would you get the "lock nut wrench (44mm)" for the LEFT FORK's inner fork bolt? Thankx, in advance.



Someone here loaned me one via postal mail... it sure was easy having the real tool. I used a pvc elbow
to unload the spring on the other side so I could easily unscrew the assembly...



-Mike

TJ


98valk

from the tech archives. http://www.valkyrieforum.com/forum/tech_archive.cgi?read=1293297

Re: Fork Tool needed

Posted By: 98valk <fitness7days@nospam.juno.com>
Date: 9/25/2008 at 12:17:17

In Response To: Fork Tool needed (hangar18valk)



cheaper than round trip shipping.

Posted By: 98valk <fitness7days@nospam.juno.com>
Date: 6/26/2006 at 05:30:06

In Response To: any fork tools in rockhill area (draino)
u can use an electric heater element removal tool from home depot for $6, it has the required ID and ODs. Modify the round end per Chet's website http://www.rattlebars.com/vtx/forktools.html
and u will need a 6 point 1 3/4" socket and 2-3 large washers to fit inside of the socket. The washers are to keep the socket from hitting the triple clamp while pressing down to remove the inner fork nut. It will also be easier to remove if a 2x4 is put under the front wheel and then lower the bike which raises the inner nut whereas the washers are not needed.


1998 Std/Tourer, 2007 DR200SE, 1981 CB900C  10speed
1973 Duster 340 4-speed rare A/C, 2001 F250 4x4 7.3L, 6sp

"Our Constitution was made only for a Moral and Religious people. It is wholly inadequate to the goverment of any other."
John Adams 10/11/1798

Tundra

TJ, I put in 1.5oz less than called for when I did mine. Then went back and added .5oz. I settled at 1oz less each side. Can't remember how I came up with that amount, I think I was searching here in the archives :uglystupid2: Anywho, I'm quite happy with it.
  We should be having a Sebring ride coming up soon, (your neck of the woods)
If you can't be a good example: be a WARNING!!

HappyTrails

Quote from: TearlessTom on Tue 16, Nov 2010, 09:54:22
Here are the stock numbers, Progressive says to use these #'s,  Many of us find this too firm so subtact a little to taste.

Right Fork:
RECOMMENDED FORK FLUID:
Pro Honda Suspension Fluid SS-8
FORK FLUID CAPACITY:
GLI 500CICT:
670 +- 2.5 cm3 122.7 4 0.08 US oz, 23.65 0.09 fmp OZ)
G C1500CF:
-- 669 f- 2.5 cm3 (22.6 f 0.08 US oz, 23.5 4 0.09 Imp oz)

FORK FLUID LEVEL: GL1 5OOC/CT: 135 mm (5.3 in)
GL7500CF: 136 rnm (5.4 in)


Left Fork:

RECOMMENDED FORK FLUID:
Pro Honda Suspension Fluid SS-8
FORK FLUID CAPACITY:
GLI 500C/CT:
744k 2.5 cm3 (25.2 2 0.08 US oz, 26.2 + 0.09 Imp oz)
GL1500CF:
7345 2.5cm3 (24.8k0.08 US oz, 25.8+0.09Imp oz)
NOTE
Support the fork leg vertically and the fork compressed
fully whenever measuring the fluid level.
Measure the fluid level from the top of the fork tube.
FORK FLUID LEVEL: GL1500C/CT: 142 mm (5.6 in)
GL1500CF: 148 mm (5.8 in)



Why is the fork fluid capacity different for each fork?
"I would rather see this world through the eyes of a child" ~ Aurora

Jess from VA

Why is the fork fluid capacity different for each fork?

Because the internals are not identical.

(one's right side up and the other's upside down, or something like that)

RonW

#19
Probably #11 and #14 displaces more volume. (One side's for rebound and the other side is for compression or better at it, I've heard.)

2000 Valkyrie Tourer

John Schmidt

I just replaced the oil in the forks on the trike this past week. Really smelled bad and burned, wouldn't doubt it had been in there since new...1999 I/S. Dumped them then let them drain overnight. For the I/S it calls for 24.8 oz. in the left fork, I put in 23. The right fork calls for 22.6 oz. and I put in 21 oz., stock springs installed. I'll be testing the ride a lot before the Inzane trip, hope I don't have to pull the forks to add any oil. The rake kit has a solid top tree so the caps aren't accessible without dropping the forks out.

Jess from VA

Can't a little oil be added from the top without disassembly?

John Schmidt

Quote from: John Schmidt on Thu 28, Apr 2022, 17:37:10
.....The rake kit has a solid top tree so the caps aren't accessible without dropping the forks out.
Jess...my post above. They're not like OEM trees which are open, therefore accessible. The forks are buried inside the top tree, don't protrude above since it's solid.

HappyTrails

"I would rather see this world through the eyes of a child" ~ Aurora