I messed up big...stripped threds

[Fawkesy]

Help.
I went to winterize my 2000 I/S and do a final oil change.
When I took out the drain plug all was fine.
When I went to put it in it doesn't want to fully tighten.
Can't put it back in just by hand...need a wrench, but at one point, won't tighten anymore.

I see the trans and heads come away from the engine block, but no separate engine pan.
Can the threads in the drain plug be repaired with heli-coil, etc.? Is there enough "meat" in the existing drain hole?

I'm sick.
Oil doesn't pour out when bike is running, just leaks the size of a silver dollar about an hour after turning off.

Help.

[Chrisj CMA]

This is not a huge problem.  If its not leaking setting still, and you are set for the winter you can deal with it later.  There are thread repair kits that will tap into the damaged threads in the block, then a new seat is permanently set in and a new slightly smaller drain plug screwes into brand new threads.

Its just a matter of finding the right size kit.  A friend of mine had to do that and it works great

[Madmike]

Help.
I went to winterize my 2000 I/S and do a final oil change.
When I took out the drain plug all was fine.
When I went to put it in it doesn't want to fully tighten.
Can't put it back in just by hand...need a wrench, but at one point, won't tighten anymore.

I see the trans and heads come away from the engine block, but no separate engine pan.
Can the threads in the drain plug be repaired with heli-coil, etc.? Is there enough "meat" in the existing drain hole?

I'm sick.
Oil doesn't pour out when bike is running, just leaks the size of a silver dollar about an hour after turning off.

Help.

... look at the piggyback ones here...

repair drain plugs

[Bagger John - #3785]

How did the threads strip out? In other words: What previously caused the damage...cross-threading, over-tightening...?

I can honestly say that in the hundreds of oil changes I've performed on Valkyries and Gold Wings in particular (and motorcycles in general), I've never inadvertently stripped a drain plug or associated crankcase threads if the manufacturer's torque specs were followed and the plug itself wasn't cross-threaded on the way in.

It's possible (though somewhat unlikely) you got a bad crankcase casting and the metal surrounding the drain hole may not be of sufficient strength to retain a "fix".

What does the area look like?

[John Schmidt]

The oil isn't under pressure there, so just get yourself a rubber plug that expands when tightened. Easy, inexpensive, and 100% effective. When I was a kid I even swiped one from my dad's thermos just to see if it would fit....was too wide but I was able to cut it down enough to fit in my old '48 Dodge crankcase.

[big turkey]

Machinist Here.

Been doing it for, well let's just say a while.

This my friend would only be a oportunity for me to show off.

Check hte hole size.

Go to ace hardware.

Take the drain plug with you.

Americanize the thing and make this fix cheaper.

If the hole is about .500 and your threads are stripped go for the nest size up.

It will require you to drill into your oil pan and you will have to jack it up.

Put some grease on the drill to keep the shavings from flying all over your inside of your oil pan.

Starter , Plug Taps should be all you need of the next size up bolt fitment.

They ahve a chart there that will help you out.

Never drilled and tapped a hole before?

Then take it ot your dealer and they will have a fix for this.

Don't under an circumstances let some dough head try to talk you into splittig the cases or


some other hair brain idea.

JB Weld has a product that will work but you ned to get the threads oil free , which can be done.

You apply according to instructions a small amount of mixed material into the hole and then screw in your stock bolt into the old thread wiht this material in place.

you coat the bolt or drain plug in this case wiht a releasing agent and after a

presribed amount of time remove the bolt and Wah Lah a new thread has been created.

Only thing is you will have to remove any material that got on your sealing

surface wiht t dremal tool so the crush washer or gasket will seal correclty.

About a 12$ fix.

But it is not the end of the world at all.

Just a challenge.

Al

[wizard -vrccds#125]

Before drilling Get yourself a tap that is the proper size. Then you can see if the threds can be repaired. If the damage is not to bad, and you didn't torque it to hard. This will realigne damaged threads. Have done it many times when I didn't take the time to hand thred as far in as posible.

[Jess Tolbirt]

the parts house or auto zone or NAPA should have a self tapping oil drain plug,,that way you will still have a seal and most use a nylon washer,,,

[Earl in Pensacola]

Jess'S suggestion is the method of repair I'd try first!  I've (over the years) used a "self tapping" plug several times all with good results.  Good luck.

[Jess from VA]

Perchance, are you sure you are using a crush washer along with the drain bolt? 

[Bobbo]

Before drilling Get yourself a tap that is the proper size. Then you can see if the threds can be repaired. If the damage is not to bad, and you didn't torque it to hard. This will realigne damaged threads. Have done it many times when I didn't take the time to hand thred as far in as posible.

If you use this method, I recommend a thread forming tap instead of a cutting tap.  Make sure it is aligned squarely first!

[Fawkesy]

Thanks all.
I feel much better that I can repair the plug.

I appreciate the knowledge everyone has shared.

[John Schmidt]

If you go on this board and ask what time it is....we'll tell you how to make a watch. 

Good luck.