IS tank over belly tank to add center stand ?

[bigfish_Oh]

I am on the fence about adding a center stand. I know 2 places where new ones are, $$$. I'm not shy, I'll make the offer, they routinely run 15-20 % sales anyway. I've even considered buying one, re engineering and improving one of my own, then re selling a new unused one cheaper.
   The opinions I do not need are those guys that added them on top of aftermarket acces. and had problems or did not follow directions. I do not need to hear from someone that has not personally used one.
I think I will use it, it has to help with some maint.
Can you change rear tire?
Can you rock off and go ? (start bike, rock it off and ride away, no feet)
              It can not be much worse than a '82 CBX, I used that 95%.
   my biggest reason not to is if I want a belly tank(that will be cheap) Is a IS tank an easy switch?(other than paint) prices? years that work?
I guess to solve my own dillema, if a IS tank is an easy solution, I'll be getting a centerstand
I better start searching for IS install info.......


thanks for any constructive advice,Larry

[Gear Jammer]

I have/had a centerstand. Took it off.  As for maintenance, I found a front wheel chock and/or jack more useful at home.  One might be useful out on the road.   Those arms that stick out on left side to push down, are almost guaranteed to scrape on a left turn.  Doesn't have to be a real deep lean either.  As for the IS tank.  If you can find one, then any year will fit.   I don't have any experience with a belly tank, but it would be less $$ than an IS tank most likely.

[junior]

NO I HAVENT HAD A CENTER STAND!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!SO I WONT TELL YOU WHAT I THINK ABOUT THEM.

on the other hand................i have intalled an interstate tank on my tourer, they bolt right up   you just need to ether buy a interstate seat or mod the one you have. i have a corbin seat i had to trim the nose of it down so it would fit from the extra hight of the I/S tank

[Smokinjoe-VRCCDS#0005]

I had one on my Interstate alright for flatlanders I guess....Great way to get high-sided when in a left hander probably the best way I've ever seen in my 12 years of owning a Valkyrie.If you had truth in advertising no doubt the sticker that Rivco put on it would read " OUTSTANDING WAY TO GET HIGH-SIDED AFTER INSTALLING " .

[John Schmidt]

I think I will use it, it has to help with some maint.
Can you change rear tire?
Can you rock off and go ? (start bike, rock it off and ride away, no feet)
 It can not be much worse than a '82 CBX, I used that 95%.
 my biggest reason not to is if I want a belly tank(that will be cheap) Is a IS tank an easy switch?(other than paint) prices? years that work?
I guess to solve my own dillema, if a IS tank is an easy solution, I'll be getting a centerstand
I better start searching for IS install info.......


thanks for any constructive advice,Larry

Taking the questions as shown:
1; Yes, that's all I use to change a tire and service the rear end. I change tires without removing the exhaust when on the centerstand. Makes it easy. Only time I use my lift anymore is when I need to raise the front wheel off the floor.

2; Yes, that's all I do if I have it up on the centerstand. But, it's not a good idea to do it with the engine running or in gear. Rock it off first, then start it....just in case. Although the bike will take up less room in the garage when on the CS, any bike is inherently more stable parked with the side stand.

3; As stated, any year of I/S tank will fit. If you happen to have an Ultimate seat or similar that has a flexible nose, it will work without modifying. It will push the nose up and wrinkle it a bit, but I rode mine for over two years that way until I could afford a new one made for an I/S tank. To keep from rubbing the paint underneath the nose, I just applied some black automotive deco peel and stick tape on the area under the nose. You couldn't see it and the paint was fine when I removed the tape later.

4; As for an I/S tank over a belly tank, you'll have to make that decision. I prefer the I/S tank....less plumbing, no welding involved, you can still get well over 200 miles on the I/S tank and I've never run dry....it's basically a 7 gallon tank, I've put in as much as 7.2 gallons when I had it totally drained for petcock repair. One additional advantage of the I/S over a belly tank...you can get a fuel gauge for it. If you keep your original Std. or Tourer tank and install the belly tank, no fuel gauge application available.

As for scraping the footpeg used on the centerstand, I've had mine on for roughly 6 1/2 years and have never come close. I have modified stock pipes so the the centerstand foot lever tucks up high where it should. I have a car tire in back and 12" shocks, the bike sits low as a result. I can scrape the footpegs with ease and never get near the centerstand foot lever. In fact, because the bike sits low the only way I can get mine up on the stand is back it over a 3/4" piece of wood, then I can lift it up with relative ease.

[bigfish_Oh]

junior,   that is a very important tip on the seat, I was considering upgrading my seating, but better slow down and be careful of what I want to do

thank you very much on that one.


the belly tank would be cheaper, my plan would be to cut out pieces and form pieces for several tanks, then find a local Valk guy who welds. I don't see $450 for one.


note, I qualified the opinions I wanted because I have saw pictures of some of those complaining and they were not installed properly under floorboards or pipes or lowered pegs, non OEM bike
   I'll go with the vast majority and what I see. I'll bet my life that my steel toe boot rubs the road first wedged under the shifter.
They should have a warning in the boot box NOT FOR MOTORCYCLING, WILL DRAG


thanks John,   That's a lot of what i wanted to hear. I have saw the motosen gages and like the idea of a fuel gauge

[Gear Jammer]

I had one on my Interstate alright for flatlanders I guess....Great way to get high-sided when in a left hander probably the best way I've ever seen in my 12 years of owning a Valkyrie.If you had truth in advertising no doubt the sticker that Rivco put on it would read " OUTSTANDING WAY TO GET HIGH-SIDED AFTER INSTALLING " .

C'mon Joe, what do you REALLY think?!!  I remembered you saying the centerstand was the 2nd most dangerous thing you could put on a Valk. 

[Gear Jammer]

I think I will use it, it has to help with some maint.
Can you change rear tire?
Can you rock off and go ? (start bike, rock it off and ride away, no feet)
It can not be much worse than a '82 CBX, I used that 95%.
my biggest reason not to is if I want a belly tank(that will be cheap) Is a IS tank an easy switch?(other than paint) prices? years that work?
I guess to solve my own dillema, if a IS tank is an easy solution, I'll be getting a centerstand
I better start searching for IS install info.......


thanks for any constructive advice,Larry

Taking the questions as shown:
1; Yes, that's all I use to change a tire and service the rear end. I change tires without removing the exhaust when on the centerstand. Makes it easy. Only time I use my lift anymore is when I need to raise the front wheel off the floor.

2; Yes, that's all I do if I have it up on the centerstand. But, it's not a good idea to do it with the engine running or in gear. Rock it off first, then start it....just in case. Although the bike will take up less room in the garage when on the CS, any bike is inherently more stable parked with the side stand.

3; As stated, any year of I/S tank will fit. If you happen to have an Ultimate seat or similar that has a flexible nose, it will work without modifying. It will push the nose up and wrinkle it a bit, but I rode mine for over two years that way until I could afford a new one made for an I/S tank. To keep from rubbing the paint underneath the nose, I just applied some black automotive deco peel and stick tape on the area under the nose. You couldn't see it and the paint was fine when I removed the tape later.

4; As for an I/S tank over a belly tank, you'll have to make that decision. I prefer the I/S tank....less plumbing, no welding involved, you can still get well over 200 miles on the I/S tank and I've never run dry....it's basically a 7 gallon tank, I've put in as much as 7.2 gallons when I had it totally drained for petcock repair. One additional advantage of the I/S over a belly tank...you can get a fuel gauge for it. If you keep your original Std. or Tourer tank and install the belly tank, no fuel gauge application available.

As for scraping the footpeg used on the centerstand, I've had mine on for roughly 6 1/2 years and have never come close. I have modified stock pipes so the the centerstand foot lever tucks up high where it should. I have a car tire in back and 12" shocks, the bike sits low as a result. I can scrape the footpegs with ease and never get near the centerstand foot lever. In fact, because the bike sits low the only way I can get mine up on the stand is back it over a 3/4" piece of wood, then I can lift it up with relative ease.

That's interesting John.  My experience is just the opposite.  I've never dragged a left peg, but scraped through the chrome down to steel on the centerstand's elbow.  My centerstand was as high as the pipes would allow it to go.  I don't see any way to mount the stand but one way.  I was running a rear Cobra 200/60/16.

[Smokinjoe-VRCCDS#0005]

I had one on my Interstate alright for flatlanders I guess....Great way to get high-sided when in a left hander probably the best way I've ever seen in my 12 years of owning a Valkyrie.If you had truth in advertising no doubt the sticker that Rivco put on it would read " OUTSTANDING WAY TO GET HIGH-SIDED AFTER INSTALLING " .

C'mon Joe, what do you REALLY think?!!  I remembered you saying the centerstand was the 2nd most dangerous thing you could put on a Valk.  

Yeah    The most dangerous was that POS Dunflop E3 I put on the front.. Fish probably loves that tire    Oh well mount the center stand it's your a$$ that's going to be flyin' through the air not mine . I took mine off within 10 miles of buying the bike.I did keep the hand rail it looks cool plus it's just more chrome .

[Crazy Miles]

I added the I/State tank to my Tourer back in 2002.   Glad I did.     Simple to do. Fits right in!  I had to do the nose job on the Corbin seat,  like Jr said,  no big deal, was easy!  I have the hidden horns under my bike so the belly tank would not had worked.  Seems to me  that it would be a bit of work + electric pump I think?   As far as the center stand goes, I've had it since 2001, I like it, comes in handy for cleaning, tire checking, maintenance, etc. As far as it dragging the ground, I've never  had it happen. However, I ride with my wife 90% of the time and I'm not that aggressive rider. I'm sure it can be done!     I have my shocks set on the highest setting.  I also pull a trailer and have a 200 Mets tire. But, again I ride easy.         

[John Schmidt]

Out of curiosity, I went out to the garage and measured the clearance of the rider's footpeg to the ground, then the outer curve of the centerstand footpeg. That's the area that would contact first, and it's higher off the ground than the rider's footpeg. I then sat on the bike and had my honey measure at the same spots....still higher than the rider's footpeg. And, judging by the amount of clearance between the CS footpeg arm where it curves under the exhaust, I can raise it at least another 1/2" or more.

Like Joe says....to each his own. I just know when I drag a peg, it's the one under my left foot that's making all the racket....plus I can feel it. Not arguing a point, just posting findings....nothing more. I do know Cobras will cause you to adjust the CS arm lower. Just a thought.

[bigfish_Oh]

I'll be putting 6 into 6 on and know I'll have to mod something. With my steel toe boots on and wedged under the shifter, I rub off the outer bottom of toe first. I just got some SIDI's to solve that. the next quick right a few seconds later, I was on the acorn, my wife heard that one, then I showed her my boot rash ! That was my first fast curves after 13 years of no bike and 200 miles on this one. I had plenty of room and no traffic, I had to know what would happen.

[fudgie]

With my steel toe boots on and wedged under the shifter, I rub off the outer bottom of toe first.

I've heard talk a few broke a ankle like that. I did it once in a gentle intersection turn. Never again. Ripped my foot right out.

[bigfish_Oh]

It was a first and a last for me, I did get a chill down my back, instantly thinking of the bad things. I have never had a foot close first, of course I never wore work boots either. I was hugging the center line, so I could ease up a little just in case something was going to hit early and still have plenty of road.

[Misfit]

The belly tank adds 3 gallons of fuel. It also lowers your center of gravity. Real important for a motorcycle. It also eliminates the possibility of hydrolock. It eliminates the seat mod. It eliminates the re-paint. It eliminates the need for a lift adaptor. The belly tank costs less than an IS tank and is worth way more.

[Smokinjoe-VRCCDS#0005]

Out of curiosity, I went out to the garage and measured the clearance of the rider's footpeg to the ground, then the outer curve of the centerstand footpeg. That's the area that would contact first, and it's higher off the ground than the rider's footpeg. I then sat on the bike and had my honey measure at the same spots....still higher than the rider's footpeg. And, judging by the amount of clearance between the CS footpeg arm where it curves under the exhaust, I can raise it at least another 1/2" or more.

Like Joe says....to each his own. I just know when I drag a peg, it's the one under my left foot that's making all the racket....plus I can feel it. Not arguing a point, just posting findings....nothing more. I do know Cobras will cause you to adjust the CS arm lower. Just a thought.

The peg will " give " the solid mounted CS will not...In a left hander when the CS hit's the road it takes the weight off the rear wheel in the blink of a eye the weight return's to the rear wheel.This is also the point where you leave the seat and start flying through the air.Best case  scenario you fly away from the 900 pound bike that will plow you a new one....All throughout this thread I forgot to add the ever popular IMO .I see the benefit of having the CS ( roadside service , wheel cleaning ,etc ) I just don't think the benefit is worth the HUGE high-side risk.

[Foozle]

The belly tank adds 3 gallons of fuel. It also lowers your center of gravity. Real important for a motorcycle. It also eliminates the possibility of hydrolock. It eliminates the seat mod. It eliminates the re-paint. It eliminates the need for a lift adaptor. The belly tank costs less than an IS tank and is worth way more.

I wholeheartedly second Misfit's assessment.  If you've got a spare I/S tank lying around - and access to a good, reasonably-priced painter - then by all means go this route.  As others have stated, this option is basically "plug-and-play."  If not, however, the belly tank is a less costly and equally effective method to add range to your Valk.  Installation isn't bad, and the lower center of gravity and hydrolock deterrent are gravy.  No affiliation, etc.  Terry