I screwed up my alternator and need some help.

[5_19]

2001 Standard with 57k miles. I decided it was time to look at the alternator and at least clean it if nothing else. Up to this point everything went very well.



The alternator was very hard to disassemble and than this happened. Those 2 pieces are supposed to stay together with the 3 wires attached. Besides it being very dirty and the brushes need replacing what is the possibilty of soldering those 3 wires back on?



This pictures show the slip rings. What condition are these in? What is the best way to clean them up?



Some of the dirt inside.

When I am finished with this I will be the expert   For now who has been here and done that ?

[Chrisj CMA]

There was a brand new cheaply priced one on the classifieds a little while ago

[Thunderbolt]

don't know if it will help, coincidentaly I just received new brushes for mine.  Haven't removed it yet though.

http://www.valkyrieriders.com/shoptalk/alternator/alternatorservice.htm

[5_19]

don't know if it will help, coincidentaly I just received new brushes for mine.  Haven't removed it yet though.

http://www.valkyrieriders.com/shoptalk/alternator/alternatorservice.htm

Thunderbolt that's what I was working also on and trying to accomplish. All i can say be carefull with disassembly. Even with the 4-5 nuts removed my bridge recifier assembly was really stuck in the housing and when I finally separated them 2 of the 3 wires where broke off.
http://www.hdlparts.com/fiche_section_detail.asp?section=148323&category=MOTORCYCLES&make=HONDA&year=2001&fveh=3470
After looking at the parts fiche these are 2 different part#. My first choice is to try to solder them back together even with 1/2" shorter leads than before. If that doesn't work I am buying a new "CORE, STATOR -31110-MN5-005 "  TJ

[Bobbo]

It might be possible to solder the stator wires back onto the diode pack, but it may not be durable.  They are usually welded on.  You would need to get the post hot enough to flow the solder, so you would have to remove them from the heatsink.

The slip rings look normal.  They are usually turned on a lathe to square the contact area, and give a break-in surface.

You should also inspect the rotor coils where they connect to the slip rings, and make sure you don't use a cleaning solvent that strips the varnish.

[John Schmidt]

Bobbo is right on the solder vs. welding. If it were me, at this point I'd take it to a shop and have them do it right. And while there, have the entire unit checked out....cheaper than replacing the alternator in part or whole.

[5_19]

It might be possible to solder the stator wires back onto the diode pack, but it may not be durable.  They are usually welded on.  You would need to get the post hot enough to flow the solder, so you would have to remove them from the heatsink.

The slip rings look normal.  They are usually turned on a lathe to square the contact area, and give a break-in surface.

You should also inspect the rotor coils where they connect to the slip rings, and make sure you don't use a cleaning solvent that strips the varnish.

I was able to remove the old solder and wire and solder the wires back on. Figured I have nothing to lose. Worse case it didn't work. Added a little hi-temp RTV silicone where the wires come thru the white plastic divider. The second picture is off the brushes in the pinned back position. It shows really well how much they have worn after 57k miles on my bike. Based on this I plan on new brushes every 50k.

have the entire unit checked out....cheaper than replacing the alternator in part or whole.

Next step is to take the unit and have it checked out at an alternator shop on Monday.

[RonW]

The alternator was very hard to disassemble and than this happened.
Those 2 pieces are supposed to stay together with the 3 wires attached....what is the possibilty of soldering those 3 wires back on?

I haven't taken the alternator apart myself, but the factory manual says to separate the stator from the RR
by "desoldering" and "soldering" those wires (for testing purposes).







*Boilerplate points....

[BOZ]

If your re-built alternator doesn't work out the way you want, try this guy - Ken Hemming. He has re-built Valkyrie alternators for many Valk owners on this board. I have had one of his H.O. alternators installed on my Valk for several thousand miles and I'm very satisfied with it. Go to the bottom of his web page to see his prices.

http://mysite.ncnetwork.net/resp3jbj/

[5_19]

the factory manual says to separate the stator from the RR

Boz, I am more talented than I thought  . Didn't need a stinking solder iron to separate the two  .

RONW, thanks for the info out of the shop manual. I did ohm mine out and my meter read consistently 0.5 Ohms between all 3 and NO continuity between the wires and the housing. I figured that was all ok. Do you know the difference in wattage between regular and HO alternators. If I add up my load for this alternator I am constantly at 200 watts. When I blow the horns (these are only short draws)  it peaks at 900 watts but that come from the battery.

Anybody know what the recommendation is for avg. load on alternators? Like 75% of rated capacity?

[Bobbo]

the factory manual says to separate the stator from the RR

Boz, I am more talented than I thought   . Didn't need a stinking solder iron to separate the two  .

RONW, thanks for the info out of the shop manual. I did ohm mine out and my meter read consistently 0.5 Ohms between all 3 and NO continuity between the wires and the housing. I figured that was all ok. Do you know the difference in wattage between regular and HO alternators. If I add up my load for this alternator I am constantly at 200 watts. When I blow the horns (these are only short draws)  it peaks at 900 watts but that come from the battery.

Anybody know what the recommendation is for avg. load on alternators? Like 75% of rated capacity?

Sounds like you have things well under control!  I'm curious about your horns.  You say the peak demand is 900 watts.  Subtracting the 200 normal load, that leaves 700 watts, which is nearly one horsepower!!  What kind of horn do you have that draws 56 amps?!  Is this off a train or large ship?!    

Standard engineering working loads are 80% of capacity, which would be about 440 watts.

[Westsider]

thanks for sharing all the alternator information...how high is your bike lift going up...looks like a great setup....

[5_19]

thanks for sharing all the alternator information...how high is your bike lift going up...looks like a great setup....

Bottom of the lift goes about 36". It's just a hi-lift pallet jack and is very stable.
Now it's time for a glass of iced tea.........just like the one Daniel Meyer drinks...........I found the oil spot on my lift under the shifter.

http://lifeisaroad.com/valkshiftseal.html

[Westsider]

looks like a really good working height...i think mine maxs out about  17 inches,,,if you run across another one out there any where give me a shout if you dont mind...looks like youll be the sync/and charge guru at the w partys now!....now wheres that shifter seal.....

[BOZ]

Hey... 5_19,

The Valk alternator puts out 546 watts at about 3,000 rpms. [Remember: Volts x Amps = Watts.] So... That's about 45 amp output. Most people will not need a high output alternator for their Valk, unless runing an abnormally high number of accessories that require a lot of juice. Example: If you've got a radio and you're running an amplifier that sucks a lot of juice, or LOTS of extra lights, etc. you would want more output from your alternator. I don't remember what the "normal" draw is to run the engine plus the stock electrical draw from lights, etc., but I "think" it's about 300 watts or so. Basically, under normal circumstances and absent significant after-market electrical accessories, the stock Valkyrie alternator should fit the bill for the vast majority of needs.

Good luck with everything, and don't hesitate to contact Ken Hemming at M.A.R.S. if you want a professionally re-built alternator at a reasonable price. I'm happy with what I got from him. 

[RonW]

Do you know the difference in wattage between regular and HO alternators.

depending how much you're willing to shell out, I presume the sky's the limit with HO output.  Which brand had you in mind?  High outputs are mainly for the car audio market. Judging by the volume, I bet they're pumping out 550 watts at idle.

[98 T]

I e-mailed Ken after reading this post and asked what a rebuilt standard alternator would cost, delivered to me without a core to return... he e-mailed back in 5 minutes-  $200.

From all I've seen, that sounds pretty reasonable.  As soon as I get some money, I think I'll buy one just to have on the shelf for some day...

[Madmike]

I e-mailed Ken after reading this post and asked what a rebuilt standard alternator would cost, delivered to me without a core to return... he e-mailed back in 5 minutes-  $200.

From all I've seen, that sounds pretty reasonable.  As soon as I get some money, I think I'll buy one just to have on the shelf for some day...

He used to supply alternator parts - rebuild kits etc. - and had rebuild instructions I think as well available, not sure if he still does or not.  I think it was all on his website at one time but haven't been there for a while now.

[grizs50]

Be careful of where you use Silicone as it is a semi conductor and can short out your system.

[Bobbo]

Be careful of where you use Silicone as it is a semi conductor and can short out your system.

Silicone rubber compounds (LSR) are not electrically conductive by themselves.  Unless the sealant he used was specifically made to be electrically conductive, he won't have any shorting problems.

[5_19]

When I had it tested it turned out that not only I separated the stator from the regulator/rectifier, I messed up the regulator part of it    also. Right now it's at a local alternator shop and they claim that they can replace the regulator/alternator part and the bearings for $90 in 2 days. I told them to go ahead and fix it. That part comes with new brushes also. Sounds like decent price to me. The guy behind the counter recognized the alternator instantly as a coming of a Goldwing.

[houstone]

High marks for Ken from M.A.R.S.  He is even willing to talk through stuff on the phone, if he has the time.  I am running a rebuild core from him, to which I added the new brushes.  Works GREAT!
Good luck!
Jeff