Timing Belt Cover problem.....

[Stanley Steamer]

I plan on changing my timing belts out sometime this year since my '99 I/S has ~85,000 on her.....

A buddy and I were going to inspect them several years ago when we had a problem trying to loosen that ONE bolt on the right side of the chrome TB cover as you look at the front of the bike....it didn't want to loosen up, so we left it alone and I ordered a new bolt for that spot.....I think it's a "special" bolt compared to the others....kinda like a two-headed nail??....anyways, it's in the saddlebags somewhere just in case I break the old one when I finally replace the belts......I'm thinking of using the generic Napa one that is listed on the generic parts list..... .....Anyone else have this problem when they changed their belts??....

[R J]

Have everything all laid out on the bench in your garage in the line of tools for that bolt.

Take the bike out and get the engine warmed up, pull into the shop, leave it idleing till you are off and have all needed tools in hand.   Shut the bike off and very cautiouslu try to take the bolt out.    It has some lock tite on it.  It seems to come loose easier when hot.   Yes, it is longer than the others.

NAPA belts are good belts.

[TJ]

Smack it a couple times with a hammer before you do anything.....

[Smokinjoe-VRCCDS#0005]

Not really a answer to your question more a observation on what I saw a couple months ago at Don ( Highbinder ) place. When we did the scouting trip for " The Hillbilly Highway Ride " we stopped at Don's and he had just changed the belt on one of his bikes I'm pretty sure he said it had 120,000 miles on it. The belt he took off was still in great condition and he did replace it with the Napa brand.

[Stanley Steamer]

Not really a answer to your question more a observation on what I saw a couple months ago at Don ( Highbinder ) place. When we did the scouting trip for " The Hillbilly Highway Ride " we stopped at Don's and he had just changed the belt on one of his bikes I'm pretty sure he said it had 120,000 miles on it. The belt he took off was still in great condition and he did replace it with the Napa brand.

I guess it's an age versus mile thing....piece of mind might be worth the new belts alone?...

[Stanley Steamer]

Good ideas RJ and TJ....seems like I might have read that before about it having some lock-tite on it?.....the heat should help with that.....

[fudgie]

Not really a answer to your question more a observation on what I saw a couple months ago at Don ( Highbinder ) place. When we did the scouting trip for " The Hillbilly Highway Ride " we stopped at Don's and he had just changed the belt on one of his bikes I'm pretty sure he said it had 120,000 miles on it. The belt he took off was still in great condition and he did replace it with the Napa brand.

I guess it's an age versus mile thing....

Kinda like our women huh!? 

[Stanley Steamer]

Not really a answer to your question more a observation on what I saw a couple months ago at Don ( Highbinder ) place. When we did the scouting trip for " The Hillbilly Highway Ride " we stopped at Don's and he had just changed the belt on one of his bikes I'm pretty sure he said it had 120,000 miles on it. The belt he took off was still in great condition and he did replace it with the Napa brand.

I guess it's an age versus mile thing....

Kinda like our women huh!? 

You're cruising for a bruising old boy!!!.....from the women!...

[fudgie]

Not really a answer to your question more a observation on what I saw a couple months ago at Don ( Highbinder ) place. When we did the scouting trip for " The Hillbilly Highway Ride " we stopped at Don's and he had just changed the belt on one of his bikes I'm pretty sure he said it had 120,000 miles on it. The belt he took off was still in great condition and he did replace it with the Napa brand.

I guess it's an age versus mile thing....

Kinda like our women huh!? 

You're cruising for a bruising old boy!!!.....from the women!...

lol I aint old till tuesday! 

[old2soon]

Stanleysteamer-maybe i got lucky or something. The bolt in question-i used the socket mounted allen wrench set i bought to do this. I wouldn't dream of disputing r j-but took mine off of a cold engine. Nary a problem. Alright that being said i kinda snuck up on it-didn't go balls out from the get go. Just took it real easy and slow.     Since srewing up a very expensive radiator and the labor involved DON'T ASK i'm going real slow taking notes and reading the procedure over a coupla times before doing anything. So far this approach seems to be payung off. If memory serves(to dang cold to go out to the garage and check) you'll be dealing with three yes 3 different lengths of bolts. i made a chart or a diagram to make sure i get the right length in the proper holes. Good luck with it and RIDE SAFE,

[X Ring]

Something an old machinist told me was to slightly tighten the bolt or nut before trying to remove it.  He said it breaks any corrosion that may prevent the fastener from coming loose.

Marty

[Sodbuster]

which bolt is that ??

[GOOSE]

STANLEYSTEAMER....THE BOLT YOU ARE TALKINF ABOUT IS #20 IN SODBUSTER'S PICTURE.  WHEN YOU PUT IT ALL BACK TOGETHER, PUT A SMALL DAB OF RTV SEALANT ON THE TIP OF THE BOLT BEFORE YOU SCREW IT BACK IN TO RESEAL IT .  DO NOT GO CRAZY TIGHTENING THE BOLTS BACK DOWN, THEY DON'T HAVE TO BE GORILLA TIGHT.  GOOD LUCK.

[Steve K (IA)]

STANLEYSTEAMER....THE BOLT YOU ARE TALKINF ABOUT IS #20 IN SODBUSTER'S PICTURE.  WHEN YOU PUT IT ALL BACK TOGETHER, PUT A SMALL DAB OF RTV SEALANT ON THE TIP OF THE BOLT BEFORE YOU SCREW IT BACK IN TO RESEAL IT .  DO NOT GO CRAZY TIGHTENING THE BOLTS BACK DOWN, THEY DON'T HAVE TO BE GORILLA TIGHT.  GOOD LUCK.

I gotta ask as one of these days that will be a job I will need to do.  You say #20....upper or lower?  And in the picture they appear to be shoulder bolts similar to the bolts holding the valve covers.  Is this correct?  That would explain the comment about not over tightening. 

[ricoman]

I believe the bolt is the second one from the right, on the top, in the pick-#22.
The #20 bolts are on the outside right in the pic and are shorter.

[GOOSE]

THE BOLT IS NUMBER 20 ON THE TOP.

[ricoman]

THE BOLT IS NUMBER 20 ON THE TOP.

nope, it's the second bolt from the right in the pic   #22
run out to garage and look at your Valk.
10 bolts total, 2-#22;2-#18; 6-#20
#22-6mmX47mm;18-6mmX17mm' #20-6mmX23mm

[Sodbuster]

So .... which one is it ??

[ricoman]

So .... which one is it ??

22T (the Top one)

[Crazyhorse]

I changed mine over the weekend. 104k miles and the belts showed no drying, cracking or wear. I use Gates T275 belts. Gates makes Napa's belts. You can finds these at rockauto.com for $15.00 each x two plus shipping = $41.00 and some odd cents. Napa wanted $29.95 each. I will be ordering a new bolt #22. Anyone know why they put sealant or locktight on that one bolt?

[Sodbuster]

....  Anyone know why they put sealant or locktight on that one bolt?

Maybe it was to ensure that at least one bolt would not work it's way loose and fall out to let said cover come off and cause an accident ??

[Crazyhorse]

Has anyone ever had one of the other bolts come out? If you are right I think I would put the locktight on one of the bolts with easier access for tapping.

[Trynt]

....  Anyone know why they put sealant or locktight on that one bolt?

Maybe it was to ensure that at least one bolt would not work it's way loose and fall out to let said cover come off and cause an accident ??

I've heard that particular threaded hole sometimes penetrates into the water jacket and the sealant is to prevent coolant from leaking out.

[Crazyhorse]

Then I can understand the use of sealant on that bolt. Thanks.

[Stanley Steamer]

STANLEYSTEAMER....THE BOLT YOU ARE TALKINF ABOUT IS #20 IN SODBUSTER'S PICTURE.  WHEN YOU PUT IT ALL BACK TOGETHER, PUT A SMALL DAB OF RTV SEALANT ON THE TIP OF THE BOLT BEFORE YOU SCREW IT BACK IN TO RESEAL IT .  DO NOT GO CRAZY TIGHTENING THE BOLTS BACK DOWN, THEY DON'T HAVE TO BE GORILLA TIGHT.  GOOD LUCK.

RTV sealant??.....I guess that's something I have to find and buy at the auto parts store...I already bought all three types of threadlocks and anti-sieze stuff.....

[Stanley Steamer]

I believe the bolt is the second one from the right, on the top, in the pick-#22.
The #20 bolts are on the outside right in the pic and are shorter.

I am pretty sure it IS the longer bolt #22......been a couple of years since I bought a new one

[Stanley Steamer]

I changed mine over the weekend. 104k miles and the belts showed no drying, cracking or wear. I use Gates T275 belts. Gates makes Napa's belts. You can finds these at rockauto.com for $15.00 each x two plus shipping $41.00 and some odd cents. Napa wanted $29.95 each. I will be ordering a new bolt #22. Anyone know why they put sealant or locktight on that one bolt?

No wear showing??......hope mine is like that too, but if I go to the trouble to take the cover off, I'm also putting new belts on!!.....Gates T275....ok....I'll look this info up.....thanks.....

[art]

 Marty your right about tightning a bolt first an also a little heat will soften up the loktight

[Ricky-D]

Something an old machinist told me was to slightly tighten the bolt or nut before trying to remove it.  He said it breaks any corrosion that may prevent the fastener from coming loose.

Marty

Marty your right about tightning a bolt first an also a little heat will soften up the loktight

That may work for large bolts, but small bolts like what is being discussed here in this thread well, that will only lead to broken bolts and heartbreak.

This is not a criticism, but more of an observation of mechanical practice.

Though locktite is good thread locker it is not a good idea to use that particular product on any small bolts that thread into aluminum. the bolts by themselves will lock up over time, so an antiseize product would be a better choice for the bolts.

***

[GOOSE]

that bolt does not have locktite on it.  it needs rtv sealant on it when it goes back in to stop a potential leak, that's all.  the rest of the bolts just put a little neverseize on the threads, and you will be good to go.

[Walküre]

Something an old machinist told me was to slightly tighten the bolt or nut before trying to remove it.  He said it breaks any corrosion that may prevent the fastener from coming loose.

Marty

I'll second that, plus, there's an added advantage that if it tries to damage the bolt at all, before it "gives", the damage is in the opposite direction of loosening, thus giving you a "second shot" if you need it. Nothing worse that damaging a bolt, when loosening it, then the damage continuing before you get it out, and then NOT being able to get it out! Grind, grind, grind, then a big ol' flat bladed screwdriver...

Mine came out a little hard this week, also. But, did the tighten then loosen trick, and came out, although stiffly all the way.

R

[Walküre]

Something an old machinist told me was to slightly tighten the bolt or nut before trying to remove it.  He said it breaks any corrosion that may prevent the fastener from coming loose.

Marty

Marty your right about tightning a bolt first an also a little heat will soften up the loktight

That may work for large bolts, but small bolts like what is being discussed here in this thread well, that will only lead to broken bolts and heartbreak.

This is not a criticism, but more of an observation of mechanical practice.

***

Not criticism either, but I've been doing this, a slight tightening first, on old, rusted bolts of all sizes, this size included, for 40+ years now. NEVER have I broken a bolt. You don't have to tighten it at all, just until it gives the least amount of "give" feel.

Just think that saying it will ONLY lead to broken bolts and heartbreak, is a little harsh, as long a just the slightest amount of common sense is used.

And, most of these bolts have been in old vehicles, for restorations or repair, such as:

http://crbest.com/testone.swf

http://crbest.com/bodywork