acorn nuts for exhaust

[mike in miami]

I bought the cobras ($635 brand new at bikertrends.com, free shipping) and when I did my pre-installation inspection I noticed that two acorn nuts were missing.  One from each side on the middle pipe, closest to the engine....

I took one other to Lowes and H depot, it is a little bigger than the 6.0 x 1 metric but smaller than a 7.0.  What is the size?

Can I use something else and what is best to keep them on?

While I wait for all of your great insight I'll go look at Honda online about ordering replacements.
Thanks, Mike

[f6rider]

Go to Honnda Direct Line or any honda dealer web sight and lookout part up, it will give the measurements.
I replaced all of mine and the studs when reinstalling my Mark ts..

Just looked them up  6 mm's.

[X Ring]

f6rider, I believe Mike is talking about the nuts used to hold the Cobras together.  You can tak them apart.

Marty

[mike in miami]

XRing,  I mean the acorn nuts holding the stock exhaust onto the engine.  I was going to use them for the cobras but like I said two are missing.  They are 6mms (u r right f6 rider) and there is a place in town that supposedly has every nut and bolt... we shall see.

Is there a heat resistant lock tight i can use?

[Six Guns]

Do not use locktite on the exhaust header acorn nuts.     

[Warlock]

I bought the cobras ($635 brand new at bikertrends.com, free shipping) and when I did my pre-installation inspection I noticed that two acorn nuts were missing.  One from each side on the middle pipe, closest to the engine....

I took one other to Lowes and H depot, it is a little bigger than the 6.0 x 1 metric but smaller than a 7.0.  What is the size?

Can I use something else and what is best to keep them on?

While I wait for all of your great insight I'll go look at Honda online about ordering replacements.
Thanks, Mike

Once you get all the exhaust nuts tight (7 ft lbs) run the bike about 15 to 20 miles and retighten them. Run the bike about 10 to 12 days and retighten again. This should do and they shouldn't loosen back up. It usually takes 3 different times for them to seddle down.
David

[mike in miami]

six guns:

The more I read about loctite, the more I realized it was not for this job.  I'll do the tighten, retighten, and again tighten...and keep an eye on them after that.

Thanks to all for your input.

I usually know just enough to really make a mess of things so your help matters!!

[Ricky-D]

There is a very limited amount of things you should use locktite on.

It's directly opposite what you need to do on a HD, the reason being there is virtually no vibration on the Honda.

Antiseize is the best thing to use when in doubt and use it on everything. It makes for easy bolt removal.

***

[hager the horrible]

I belive they r 6 mm i needed some a while bach and went to local ace hardware and found them in a high nut which worked out great ?

[gordonv]

Are you guys getting standard acorn nuts, or ones like the OEM with the flanges?

[mike in miami]

A local Honda dealer had them...and I'll use the anti-seize that was recommended, not loctite.

I'm going in, cover me! (oops, too much modern warfare 2)

[toetruck21]

I took my exhaust off today and found out that I also needed more of the 6mm nuts!  PO really slapped some crap together!  When removing the nuts I also broke off two of the studs going into the block  !  Going through the dealer website on the parts list, I'm having a hard time figuring out what I need to order for these studs.  Can someone please hold my hand and point me in the right direction.  Thank you very much!  This all started this morning with three different episodes of a flat rear tire and two bad plug jobs!  I finally called my wife and had her come pick me up!  Its been a long day!

[Six Guns]

It's under Cylinder Head # 17, $2.66 each......

[toetruck21]

Thank You very much!

[QuiQuog]

I don't like resurrecting old threads, but there's no sense creating another thread.

My local dealer wants $7.50 each for these nuts. Does anybody have an online source for them? If not, I'll try some hardware stores, but if I can get them without running all over town, I'll do it.

[Valker]

The acorn nuts are $4.47 each on Ronayers.com
The studs are $2.66 each on there.

[gordonv]

Without looking back, the acorn nuts from Honda has a "washer" like ring on the bottom, one piece. When looking to replace them on my ACE (exposed nuts), I could not find them anywhere.

But you can buy regular acorn nuts, without the "washer" like bottom. Bought them, removed the OEM, and but them on instead. Since they all match, no one is the wiser. Kept the OEM nuts for other areas of the bike if they start to rust.

[Chrisj CMA]

I have a few of these precious nuts, man, they must be made of gold.  Anyway, if anyone in this post stll needs a couple, pm your address and I will send them.  I don't have that many, but I will do what I can

[Ricky-D]

If you compare the Honda acorn nut to a standard acorn nut you will see the Honda nut is considerably DEEPER.

You chance punching out the end of  the standard hardware acorn. The purpose of the nut is to protect the

threads on the stud from corrosion.

***

[QuiQuog]

If you compare the Honda acorn nut to a standard acorn nut you will see the Honda nut is considerably DEEPER.

You chance punching out the end of  the standard hardware acorn. The purpose of the nut is to protect the

threads on the stud from corrosion.

***

That makes sense considering where they're located. And a good reason for using some sort of anti-seize compound.

[QuiQuog]

I have a few of these precious nuts, man, they must be made of gold.  Anyway, if anyone in this post stll needs a couple, pm your address and I will send them.  I don't have that many, but I will do what I can

I received the nut today. Thank you for taking the time to pop it in the mail.

[Dak44312]

Guys, these have been used by Honda since the mid 80's on a wide variety of models. You can always find them on eBay...just search "Honda exhaust nut", sort by lowest price and start scrolling until you see a picture of the correct ones.  I just bought 4 for $5.00 shipped. As mentioned, the correct depth and integral flange design with proper diameter is hard to duplicate at the hardware store.

I'm not sure I agree with using anything but dry fitment. Won't liquid or paste of any type affect the torque ?

[Chrisj CMA]

Guys, these have been used by Honda since the mid 80's on a wide variety of models. You can always find them on eBay...just search "Honda exhaust nut", sort by lowest price and start scrolling until you see a picture of the correct ones.  I just bought 4 for $5.00 shipped. As mentioned, the correct depth and integral flange design with proper diameter is hard to duplicate at the hardware store.

I'm not sure I agree with using anything but dry fitment. Won't liquid or paste of any type affect the torque ?

" affect the torque?".  Just snug them up, no torque wrench!  It's not critical at all the actual torque, just snug and not broken is the main thing.  Start trying to get all technical with a torque wrench on header nuts and that's when you will break a stud

[Dak44312]

Really? How tight is "snug"? There is a specific  torque value for a reason. I bet 7lbs  is nowhere near what some peoples' "snug" is. Look how many threads on here involve people breaking studs.  Honda manufactured our bikes with exacting science. Don't treat it like a HD. 

[Paladin528]

Every bike owner is smarter than the engineer that designed it.
Torque is important on the exhaust due to the heating and cooling it goes through and to properly seat the crush gaskets.  Uneven torquing will also cause the pipe flanges to warp and not seat properly the next time they are reinstalled.
in a hot zone like this (and you are going to laugh) using some Milk of Magnesia on the threads when you install the nuts will help when it is time to remove them.  It is actually a VERY good high temp anti-seize. Magnesium Carbonate.  We actually use it on Jet aircraft engines.

Also it will only affect the running torque of the nut not the final torque so there is no worry there.

[QuiQuog]

using some Milk of Magnesia on the threads when you install the nuts will help when it is time to remove them.  It is actually a VERY good high temp anti-seize. Magnesium Carbonate.  We actually use it on Jet aircraft engines.

Milk of Magnesia, we've been keeping your crap flying since 1818!
 

[Chrisj CMA]

Every bike owner is smarter than the engineer that designed it.
Torque is important on the exhaust due to the heating and cooling it goes through and to properly seat the crush gaskets.  Uneven torquing will also cause the pipe flanges to warp and not seat properly the next time they are reinstalled.
in a hot zone like this (and you are going to laugh) using some Milk of Magnesia on the threads when you install the nuts will help when it is time to remove them.  It is actually a VERY good high temp anti-seize. Magnesium Carbonate.  We actually use it on Jet aircraft engines.

Also it will only affect the running torque of the nut not the final torque so there is no worry there.

Well, that sounds all technical and high speed and all.  Go ahead and put a new (to the bike) exhaust on with new copper crush gaskets and  then torque them all so very carefully to the proper 7lbs.   Then go ride and  after a couple hours they will not be evenly torqued at all.  Then remove those ruined pipes with the distorted headers and send them to  me.

A little humor there.  Seriously, I have changed many Valkyrie exhausts and never used a torque wrench.  Never a problem with heat distortion.  Me thinks you made that up

[Chrisj CMA]

Really? How tight is "snug"? There is a specific  torque value for a reason. I bet 7lbs  is nowhere near what some peoples' "snug" is. Look how many threads on here involve people breaking studs.  Honda manufactured our bikes with exacting science. Don't treat it like a HD.  

You should llearn to trust your "feel". Snug is when you hold the 10mm box wrench close to the top and give it a slight oomph after it stops.  It is quite easy to repeat that same " feel" each time if you pay attention.  That torque setting was established on brand new threads. All clean and shiny.  For how Non-Critical it is and how unreliable achieving exactly 7 lbs on used dirty threads...learn to trust your "feel"