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Standard Taillight on I/S Wiring

Started by X Ring, Tue 07, Jun 2011, 11:49:31

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X Ring

I've installed a Standard/Tourer taillight on my 2K I/S.  I bought the Standard/Tourer 2 piece rear wiring harness from hdl parts.  I'm planning on replacing the current rear wiring harness with it.  Plus make an adapter to tap into the brake light wire for the trunk mounted brake lights.  Any thoughts or suggestions on this or better ideas.  I'm all ears.

TIA,
Marty
People are more passionately opposed to wearing fur than leather because it's safer to harass rich women than bikers.           

BradValk48237

I just tapped into the existing wiring harness..... Can't remember what colors......

gordonv

#2
Like you, I like the idea of keeping the OEM connectors and not cutting into anything. Buying extra harness I can customize and modify to do what I want was very appealing.

You might check out this web site and see if there are any connectors that we can use for this. What ever you find, maybe do a write up. I sold my brake light for the IS when I heard my job was ending, and since have written the IS off in an accident, so havn't gotten back into doing it.

http://www.vintageconnections.com/

But I am mounting the trunk onto my ACE T, and I have confirmed that the 3 pin connector will plug into my truck's connector.

1999 Black with custom paint IS


X Ring

I'm actually thinking of making a wire with a female bullet at one end and a male spade at the other to plug into a scotchblock connector that clamps over the brake light wire.

Marty
People are more passionately opposed to wearing fur than leather because it's safer to harass rich women than bikers.           

X Ring

So far so good.  Removed the back half of the rear fender.  Then the Standard/Tourer taillight and turn signals from the fender.  Installed the Standard/Tourer wiring harness under both halves of the fender.  Reinstalled the taillight and turn signals and connected the front half of the wiring harness except for the brake light wire under the right side cover.  Then I connected the two halves of the wiring harness and reinstalled the back half of the fender.  (Note: For those of you thinking of removing the back half of the rear fender for any reason, you need another person to hold the fender or plug the two halves of the wiring harness together.  Trying to do it by yourself is a serious pita!!)  A severe thunderstorm came up quickly so I retreated into the house.  I only have a carport so it's exposed on 3 sides.  Before I went inside I tested the lights and they all worked except, of course, the brake light.    While the storm is going on I will make the adapter wire and install it after the storm is over.

Marty

People are more passionately opposed to wearing fur than leather because it's safer to harass rich women than bikers.           

AussieValk

I didn't worry about wiring harnesses etc., simply cut tailight wire back near side cover, routed new wires in heatshrink tube from a waterproof connector I'd spliced in (for re-connection of trunk light wiring) and all was good. Didn't go anywhere near the indicators, except for the routing of the new wires. Easy.

YoungPUP

Don't use the clamp on style connectors for ANY reason! they are notorious for corroding the wire for several feet ( yes feet) in each direction. I've seen these used to install trailer wiring on vehicles, and when it failed the wires broke easily revealing Black corrosion for several feet in both directions. Don't do it! You can buy a tool at most good part stores or online for disassembling the weather proof wiring connector which would allow you to pull the wire you need to access out of the plug and remove some of the insulation for splicing in the new wire, and then recover the new splice with marine (adhesive lined ) heat shrink tubing.  Then you've got better than stock!!! :cooldude:
Yea though I ride through the valley of the Shadow of Death I shall fear no evil. For I ride the Baddest Mother F$#^er In that valley!

99 STD (Under construction)

X Ring

Quote from: AussieValk on Tue 07, Jun 2011, 19:40:38
I didn't worry about wiring harnesses etc., simply cut tailight wire back near side cover, routed new wires in heatshrink tube from a waterproof connector I'd spliced in (for re-connection of trunk light wiring) and all was good. Didn't go anywhere near the indicators, except for the routing of the new wires. Easy.

Why would I want to do this?  I'm not creating a Supervalk.  I'm just adding another tail/brake light.  If I want to ride a Valk without a trunk, I'll hop on my Tourer.

Marty
People are more passionately opposed to wearing fur than leather because it's safer to harass rich women than bikers.           

X Ring

Quote from: YoungPUP on Tue 07, Jun 2011, 20:10:05
Don't use the clamp on style connectors for ANY reason! they are notorious for corroding the wire for several feet ( yes feet) in each direction. I've seen these used to install trailer wiring on vehicles, and when it failed the wires broke easily revealing Black corrosion for several feet in both directions. Don't do it! You can buy a tool at most good part stores or online for disassembling the weather proof wiring connector which would allow you to pull the wire you need to access out of the plug and remove some of the insulation for splicing in the new wire, and then recover the new splice with marine (adhesive lined ) heat shrink tubing.  Then you've got better than stock!!! :cooldude:

I'll run into town tomorrow and see if I can find one.  That's a good idea.  I checked the Standard/Tourer taillight out from back and it looks really good and is pretty visible.  I think it will help in the daylight.  With it being under the shadow of the trunk it will probably be really visible.

Marty
People are more passionately opposed to wearing fur than leather because it's safer to harass rich women than bikers.           

AussieValk

Quote from: X Ring on Tue 07, Jun 2011, 21:10:51
Quote from: AussieValk on Tue 07, Jun 2011, 19:40:38
I didn't worry about wiring harnesses etc., simply cut tailight wire back near side cover, routed new wires in heatshrink tube from a waterproof connector I'd spliced in (for re-connection of trunk light wiring) and all was good. Didn't go anywhere near the indicators, except for the routing of the new wires. Easy.

Why would I want to do this?  I'm not creating a Supervalk.  I'm just adding another tail/brake light.  If I want to ride a Valk without a trunk, I'll hop on my Tourer.

Marty


Oh I still run with the trunk, just have the option of unplugging the wiring under the seat to run without the trunk. The money saved by not having two bikes can then be spent on something else.

X Ring

I like having two Valks.  When the I/S is where I want her, I will be removing the Tourer's backseat and installing a fender rack for those solo rides.

Marty
People are more passionately opposed to wearing fur than leather because it's safer to harass rich women than bikers.           

YoungPUP

It may help the counter monkey help you if you tell them you're taking apart a weatherpack type connector. Heres what its formally called. Packard tool 12014012. Weather Pack terminal release tool. This tool depresses the terminal retention barbs to allow the terminal to be released from the housing. Can be found on crimpsupply.com for $6
Yea though I ride through the valley of the Shadow of Death I shall fear no evil. For I ride the Baddest Mother F$#^er In that valley!

99 STD (Under construction)