Burnt up the clutch have some questions about replacement.

[chrise2469]

I was a dumba$$ and thought it would be a good idea to try a burnout with my old tire.  New tire is on and now the clutch slips under load  .

I  have gone through the archives and have a pretty good idea what is in store.  I  have a few questions for the experts
1.  Is The basket socket nut 32mm and will a shallow socket work or is a deep socket necessary.
2.  Both Jeff K and Lady draco tightened up the basket with two bolts before reinstalling the spring-whats the thread pitch on these bolts?
3.  Whats a good way to do a burnout without killing the clutch 

Thanks for the help

Chris

[woody]

I have found the best way to do a burnout without burning out my cutch is to use someone elses bike.
Im too scared to do a burnout on the Valk because last time I lifted the front wheel and had to ride a 100 metres before I was game enough to let the front wheel come down. I was worried that it would hit too hard and break something.

[Master Blaster]

The clutches on these things are pretty robust, its unusual for one to go south, unless you are using the wrong oil.  They do fine even on blown bikes, most common problem is the rivets on the damper plate.  have seen tons of burnouts with no clutch problems, even on very high mileage bikes.  I would suspect that you may have something else going on that caused your problem.

[chrise2469]

The problem was I didn't get a nice smokey burn out.  The clutch felt great before I started and after 4 or 5 attempts it was weak and travel was way longer.  Looks very casual to me.

[DFragn]

The problem was I didn't get a nice smokey burn out.  The clutch felt great before I started and after 4 or 5 attempts it was weak and travel was way longer.  Looks very casual to me.

If your lever engagement travel has drastically increased it is probably because of failed rivets in your damper plate. Worn friction plates shouldn't affect your lever noticeably unless they're warped.