Brake pad asbestos thingies

[SpidyJ]

could not get the new rear pads to fit with those white asbestos looking things so I put some anti squeal stuff between the pads and the stainless plate...........ok?
Used EBC pads

[art]

Not ok.If you are using stock rotors you should not use EBC pads.They will wear out the rotors a lot faster.I know from experiance.

[old2soon]

Stock rotors stock HONDA brake pads.  Compared to the erotors pads is cheap. RIDE SAFE.

[SpidyJ]

Dang it........you're kiddin' me!

.can't I do anything right?

[Ricky-D]

I feel the generalities about brake pads and rotors, especially regarding suitability between manufacturers and stock OEM is misplaced and wrong headed.

EBC makes a plethora of disc brake pad types which are suitable for all brake systems, so to indict EBC as not being suitable for OEM replacement is just not true.

EBC types of pads:

• Carbon graphite X brake pads
• Double-H sintered brake pads
• Long life sintered R brake pads
• Semi sintered V brake pads
• Organic brake pads

While some may not be suitable other may be wholly suitable and brake rotor friendly.

The kindest brake pads you can get for your rotors are organic brake pads. Any brand!

And as a note, there are Honda dealers that will give you non-OEM pads in place of OEM pads because they can make more money on the aftermarket pads. If you don't get the stock OEM pads in a sealed package with Honda's markings all over you are being fooled.

The only thing I would be worried about, is the pads not fitting in the calipers properly. That asbestos backing is there to form a semi heat barrier and the calipers should allow them to fit.

Are you sure the pistons are fully compressed back in to the caliper housing? That's where I would look!

***

[larswlvs]

I agree with Ricky-D, I have used EBC brakes when OEM pads where not available with no squeals or rotor wear.

[SpidyJ]

They are the organic type.
I guess if I took the caliper all the way off I could have compressed the pistons more.  How do you get that little brass guide pin out?

[SpidyJ]

Ok all fixed..........took the calipar all the way off and c-clamped the pistons....stupid rubber bootie on that lower pin ripped.

Thanks for the re-assurance fellas.

polish all the chrome, install pipes........then ride.

[old2soon]

Ok all fixed..........took the calipar all the way off and c-clamped the pistons....stupid rubber bootie on that lower pin ripped.

Thanks for the re-assurance fellas.

polish all the chrome, install pipes........then ride.

As a side note-last year i replaced all the brake pads on my lady. This year just before i started my winter maint the rear caliper locked up. Just barely got her back in the garage. Found very light corrosion on the ends of the pistons and the tops of the piston bores. Found something that looks exactly like Scotch Brite but costs a little less.  Just looked out in the garage and must have gotten rid of the packing already. Cleaned the bores and the pistons with this stuff and new O rings for the pistons-she be like brand new on that rebuild now. Could just barely see that corrosion but you could definitely feel it. Was at the 51000 mile mark for that caliper rebuild. Hope this helps somebody. RIDE SAFE.

[RonW]

Found very light corrosion on the ends of the pistons and the tops of the piston bores.

reminds me of a post earlier this week about installing new brake pads Without removing the caliper from the rotor .... viola. You can't clean the pistons well with the caliper still sitting on the rotor. If you don't clean the pistons well enough you risk damaging the seals when you pry the pistons back into the bores to fit new pads. Which may or may not happen but if it does then you'll have to remove the caliper anyways and into a huge job. It takes me 20-minutes shoe shinning each piston (with the caliper removed from the rotor of course). Like many others I insert a shim between the old pads before removing the old pads from the caliper. The shim is a smidgen thinner than the thickness of the rotor. The shim is to keep the pistons from flying off when you press the brake pedal/lever. The reason that you press the brake pedal/lever is to extend the pistons a mm or two out of their bores to clean off the ring around the collar.

Dunno how to remove every last bit of plaque around the top of the bores without pulling the pistons. Hopefully, whatever stubborn plaque that remains won't get knocked off and fall into the bores at the moment you pry the pistons back into the bores. Once the pistons are back in the bores, the pistons only push out so the plaque particles at the top of the bores shouldn't fall into the bores and damage the seals. The way I've been doing it is to spray the caliper with brake cleaner a week before then a few days before replacement. I've found that tin foil is the easiest way to mask off the nearby areas that you don't want getting brake cleaner on.

[Jess from VA]

Needing to remove the rear caliper at tire changes, that is the time to do a complete caliper cleanup and detail (whether or not you need pads).  Last time I was in there to replace the Ujoint, I really scoured my caliper/hardware/pistons, and greased the pins, but no new pads.

Was getting a little noise from my rear end last week, and used a flashlight on the pads and could see no wear marks......... because they were gone.  Changed the pads and was able to loosen and swivel the caliper (without removing it) enough to get a c-clamp to push the pistons back for the new pads (thanks Marty), and to my great satisfaction, the pistons remained bright and shiny from the last detail cleaning. Still sprayed them with a penetrating oil while in there.

My rear rotor is not in great shape, but with new pads I have pretty good rear brakes again. 

[old2soon]

I don't have compressed air in my shop. But the guy that sevices my car does. We folded up a red rag to protect the caliper and piston ends then hit them GENTLY with the air. Naturally one of the pistons decided to be difficult. It needed some persuasion with long nose pliers and a red rag protecting the machined surface. Looking and cleaning the calipers is now part of my 10000-12000 mile service stuff. RIDE SAFE.