Shifting the rear wheel

[PhredValk]

This is a stupid question on the face of it, but I have to ask. Is there any way to shift the rear wheel a couple of MM to the left?

I get a little rubbing on the right sidewall (I think from the swing-arm and probably just when cornering) of my rear CT (not enough to remove the lettering, but it shows a scuff) and after removing the back section of the rear fender the tire is obviously closer to the right side of the fender all around.

Mechanically I think that this is not doable, but with hundreds of tech savvy riders out there I must ask if this has ever been successfully addressed.
Thanks, Fred.

[Bone]

My first CT did the same thing on the left side. The clearance between the tire and swing arm was the thickness of a credit card. I started experimenting with air pressure always riding solo the passenger seat has been removed. Increasing the pressure helped. Went to the Goodyear TT my next tire and never a scuff the sidewall must be stiffer.

[wild6]

This is a stupid question on the face of it, but I have to ask. Is there any way to shift the rear wheel a couple of MM to the left?

I get a little rubbing on the right sidewall (I think from the swing-arm and probably just when cornering) of my rear CT (not enough to remove the lettering, but it shows a scuff) and after removing the back section of the rear fender the tire is obviously closer to the right side of the fender all around.

Mechanically I think that this is not doable, but with hundreds of tech savvy riders out there I must ask if this has ever been successfully addressed.
Thanks, Fred.

Make sure it's the swingarm and not the right nut-cage (unless you've removed them). 

[Brian]

I tihnk this was discussed in earlier subject threads as the CT's out there in this size have different width profiles. The bikes I have seen using the CT only had about a credit card width between the swingarm and the sidewall. The last rider I met that did this had the General tire, don't remember which one, this tire was on an interstate and did not have to do the nut cage mod. He and his wife had just comeback from running the tail of the dragon here in NC with no problems or any signs of rubbing.

In my opinion, air pressure or the tire size would be better than trying to change the design of the rear end.

[PhredValk]

Thought so, thanks. I'll up the pressure. Nut cages are done, and the scuffing is right in the widest part of the sidewall, so the swingarm is the only possibility.
Thanks. Fred.

[KSDragonRider]

I had the same problem with the 205/65 tire.  I shined a flash light up there and saw it was a bolt head for the front fender bolt so im going to pull it out and put a carrige bolt in its place. I have almost 3/16 inch between the tire and the swing arm. 
I have also done the nut cage mod, washer mod and shocks set to 4.  Im going to up my shocks to 5 and swap out that bolt and make the rub go away.

[Daniel Meyer]

It is more likely that it's the nut cage area...prove it by putting masking or duct tape on the swing arm and go ride. You'll be able to tell if it rubs there.

The thing is, if it doesn't touch the swingarm standing still, then it can't while running unless something else is broken (like bearings).

[PhredValk]

Thanks, all. Daniel, I will try that when I put her back together (apart for lighting projects and maint).
Fred.

[Daniel Meyer]

Thanks, all. Daniel, I will try that when I put her back together (apart for lighting projects and maint).
Fred.

Cool, while you have it apart, get a light and stick your head up her butt (LOL!). Seriously, crawl under and look up at the fender from underneath. You'll probably be able to spot the spot where it's rubbing! 

[X Ring]

Punisher had a similar problem with his I/S and discover it was happening when he was cornering.  It was rubbing on the nut for the forward fender rail bolt.  He ground it down so it wouldn't rub anymore.  Have you tried doing the fender washer mod?

Marty

[X Ring]

PhredValk, are you still running 40 psi in your rear tire?  If you have more than 1000 miles on it, the sidewalls are broken and you can drop the pressure.  I only run 30-32 psi in the CTs on both my Tourer and my I/S.  The excessive pressure will bulge the sidewalls and tread area and that could be causing your rubbing.  Drop the pressure first, followed by the washer mod.  If it's still rubbing then I'd take the rear wheel off and climb up in the rear fender looking for signs of rubbing.

Marty

[olddog1946]

It is more likely that it's the nut cage area...prove it by putting masking or duct tape on the swing arm and go ride. You'll be able to tell if it rubs there.

The thing is, if it doesn't touch the swingarm standing still, then it can't while running unless something else is broken (like bearings).

I vote for a bearing (left) going bad, my tire didn't rub in over 15K, then all of a sudden it was rubbing on the swing arm, then clunk clunk clunk..left bearing was shot.

[tmfp]

The thing is, if it doesn't touch the swingarm standing still, then it can't while running unless something else is broken (like bearings).

With respect, that's not entirely true, tires do expand at speed.

Re the original question, I would grind a mm or two off the driveshaft swing arm at the high spot rather than attempt to move the rear wheel out of alignment.

[X Ring]

The thing is, if it doesn't touch the swingarm standing still, then it can't while running unless something else is broken (like bearings).

With respect, that's not entirely true, tires do expand at speed.

Re the original question, I would grind a mm or two off the driveshaft swing arm at the high spot rather than attempt to move the rear wheel out of alignment.

BEFORE he starts grinding on the driveshaft tube he needs to find out where it is actually rubbing. 

Marty