MAKING CARB SYNCHRONISATION EASYIER BY WALT KINGBEE -question

[FLATSIX]

HI WALT,

I did some search at the old archive and found your solution to bring the vacuumopening better accesible by using hose and nipples.

I have also the valance-covers and if these are in place then it is very difficult to get at the rubber nipples to do the carb synchronisation.

How did you o it as in the old archive photo is disappeared.

Thanks again!

Jos (FLATSIX) 

[Kingbee]

I don't know why the photo is missing, but I have since found a much simpler way to access the vacuum lines, and it works very well with the spark plug valance in place, and is much quicker than un-capping the added auxiliary vacuum lines.




Anyway, here are the original images



Here you can see the added vacuum lines, capped with screws, run up behind the carbs



Once they're tucked behind the choke linkage cover, they're gone




On all my other bikes I use the pliers - much easier.

[FLATSIX]

THANK YOU WALT FOR THE COMMENT + PHOTOS.

So if I understad well then the line that goes to the petcock receives the T-piece - what about the 5 others - did you use for those a short piece of tubind + "L"piece 90° + longer piece of tube to end between the carbs, or just 1 piece of tube to end between the carbs ??

I will do this mod as I am not sure that I will be able to work with the nose plier tool when valance are in place and don't like scratches on my precious chrome....

Thanks again 

[Kingbee]

You only need a tee on the intakes that already have a vacuum line on them.  Otherwise just remove the plug and run the line behind the carbs.  I'd like to find a better way to cap or plug the lines, though.  The screws can leak around the threads if the head is not tight on the end of the line.  I think something un-threaded would be better.

[Ricky-D]

I did the complete de-smog and installed a Pingel stopcock so all the vacuum ports on the manifolds are available to me.  I have installed a length of hose on each port and plugged the hoses with a blank steel rod about 3/4" long.  Noy all I have to do is fish the hoses out from the center of the motor and hook up my synchro-tool.

[FLATSIX]

I thought the same when I saw the photo, Walt, that the solution with the screws could be better.

Have the original rubberstops that are placed OEM on the intakes - I thought to create the same situation with nipple where I could cap the rubber hose with the original rubber caps, so the same like it was at the intake, but now higher between the carbs.

This way it would be and securely capped , and very quick to remove the rubber caps for synchronisation.

I think about a double hose adaptor in hard PVC from a fish-store (aquarium) or in metal?

Just my thoughts...