Are these plugs ok?

[JetDriver]

These plugs have 17,250 miles.  All 6 look the same, and all looked wet when I pulled them.  Prior to these, all plug changes have come out looking light brown.

[Chrisj CMA]

If by wet you mean oil in the threads, thats because Valkyries have a rather loose fitting threaded hole .  Them plugs dont look like they have any anti seize on them.  If not, use some, it will stop the oil from wicking up the threads.  They look totally fine to me, go put 50,000 more miles on them and stop worrying

[JetDriver]

Thanks for the reply, Chris.  From the pics I see from Google, I would agree with you- it looks like oil.  That's why I'm concerned.  In my understanding of a 4 cycle engine, there shouldn't be any oil in the spark plug hole.  This is also new to the bike.  All past spark plug changes have had a light brown "toasted" color.  If that IS oil, that means something's getting past the rings, right? 

[Warlock]

Thanks for the reply, Chris.  From the pics I see from Google, I would agree with you- it looks like oil.  That's why I'm concerned.  In my understanding of a 4 cycle engine, there shouldn't be any oil in the spark plug hole.  This is also new to the bike.  All past spark plug changes have had a light brown "toasted" color.  If that IS oil, that means something's getting past the rings, right? 

Don't let it bother you. Combustion gas will make that on the plugs. Not a big fan of anti seize. As per NGK website do not use on most plugs. The NGK plugs we use in the Valkyrie requires no anti seize. When appling it it also fools with the torque required. A lot of members here use it and it's their call. I'm have been a mechanic just about all my life and still do mechanic work till I retire.  JMA.
David

[JetDriver]

Thanks guys.  I was all set to rebuild my engine- guess I'll go riding instead!

[Chrisj CMA]

two things about antiseize and sparkplugs on Valkyries.  First off that oil on the threads is no problem at all.  you need to have oil in the top end to keep parts from wearing out.  That oil will wick up into the threads its normal.  What wouldnt be normal is if the plug was fouling or the electrode area was wet on inspection.  Antisieze will greatly reduce the oil wicking and insure thre are no disimilar metal issues since these are aluminum heads and your plugs are made out steel.  Our plugs tend to stay in there longer than most so its really a good idea to have the antisieze in there.  Second, why in the world mess with a torque wrench on a spark plug.  tighten it gently until you feel the hard stop and then a bump past that is all it needs

[9Ball]

two things about antiseize and sparkplugs on Valkyries.  First off that oil on the threads is no problem at all.  you need to have oil in the top end to keep parts from wearing out.  That oil will wick up into the threads its normal.  What wouldnt be normal is if the plug was fouling or the electrode area was wet on inspection.  Antisieze will greatly reduce the oil wicking and insure thre are no disimilar metal issues since these are aluminum heads and your plugs are made out steel.  Our plugs tend to stay in there longer than most so its really a good idea to have the antisieze in there.  Second, why in the world mess with a torque wrench on a spark plug.  tighten it gently until you feel the hard stop and then a bump past that is all it needs

I think there is a tendency to be a bit heavy handed when tightening spark plugs without a torque wrench, same as tightening an oil filter.  12 lbf-ft doesn't seem very tight but is all that is needed per the torque spec.

Just my experience...I'm a firm believer in following the torque requirements since I don't have a calibrated wrench hand like others claim.  Whatever makes the end user happy.

YMMV...

[Chrisj CMA]

Thanks for the reply, Chris.  From the pics I see from Google, I would agree with you- it looks like oil.  That's why I'm concerned.  In my understanding of a 4 cycle engine, there shouldn't be any oil in the spark plug hole.  This is also new to the bike.  All past spark plug changes have had a light brown "toasted" color.  If that IS oil, that means something's getting past the rings, right? 

Don't let it bother you. Combustion gas will make that on the plugs. Not a big fan of anti seize. As per NGK website do not use on most plugs. The NGK plugs we use in the Valkyrie requires no anti seize. When appling it it also fools with the torque required. A lot of members here use it and it's their call. I'm have been a mechanic just about all my life and still do mechanic work till I retire.  JMA.
David

I finally found on the ngk usa website where they say its not needed because of a coating they put on the plugs.  I believe that, I didnt use anti seize for a long time and never had a bad problem.  However, now that I use antiseize the plugs go in and out so much smoother and theres never a hint of corrosion.  I agree any product that could act as a lubricant will affect torque (using a torque wrench) With oil in the threads its still the same.  You dont need a torque wrench to get these things in there.

To achieve accurate torque settings with a torque wrench at such low torque you would have to duplicate factory brand new conditions.  that means cleaning and running a tap through the threads so they are smooth and dry and pristine like new.  If you have threads that have plugs in and out a few times, oil in there youre not going to get any closer to the correct setting with a torque wrench than guessing without one IMHO

[Warlock]

Thanks for the reply, Chris.  From the pics I see from Google, I would agree with you- it looks like oil.  That's why I'm concerned.  In my understanding of a 4 cycle engine, there shouldn't be any oil in the spark plug hole.  This is also new to the bike.  All past spark plug changes have had a light brown "toasted" color.  If that IS oil, that means something's getting past the rings, right? 

Don't let it bother you. Combustion gas will make that on the plugs. Not a big fan of anti seize. As per NGK website do not use on most plugs. The NGK plugs we use in the Valkyrie requires no anti seize. When appling it it also fools with the torque required. A lot of members here use it and it's their call. I'm have been a mechanic just about all my life and still do mechanic work till I retire.  JMA.
David

I finally found on the ngk usa website where they say its not needed because of a coating they put on the plugs.  I believe that, I didnt use anti seize for a long time and never had a bad problem.  However, now that I use antiseize the plugs go in and out so much smoother and theres never a hint of corrosion.  I agree any product that could act as a lubricant will affect torque (using a torque wrench) With oil in the threads its still the same.  You dont need a torque wrench to get these things in there.

To achieve accurate torque settings with a torque wrench at such low torque you would have to duplicate factory brand new conditions.  that means cleaning and running a tap through the threads so they are smooth and dry and pristine like new.  If you have threads that have plugs in and out a few times, oil in there youre not going to get any closer to the correct setting with a torque wrench than guessing without one IMHO

What ever makes you happy. I guess all the tech's in the world no nothing about torque wrenches when they recommend it when installing plugs, tightening up axle nuts. I have a digital one that I use just to check all my torque wrenches.
David

[jer0177]

To achieve a proper torque, the threads should be lubricated, otherwise the friction between the plug and head will negatively affect the torque value.

http://www.dansmc.com/bolts2.htm

http://www.enginerepairshop.com/torque-specifications.html

[Chrisj CMA]

To achieve a proper torque, the threads should be lubricated, otherwise the friction between the plug and head will negatively affect the torque value.

http://www.dansmc.com/bolts2.htm

http://www.enginerepairshop.com/torque-specifications.html

I was referring specifically to the NGK website that was cited, they put out their specs based on dry threads.  So I figure you need to have the same conditions to achieve the same results.

[Daniel Meyer]

Just remember, anti-seize or not, the "replace" interval in the honda recommendations is more about not having a plug seize up in your expensive aluminum head than it is plug life.

The plugs may last 100,000 miles but they may be permanent if you leave 'em in that long!

[Brian]

Just remember, anti-seize or not, the "replace" interval in the honda recommendations is more about not having a plug seize up in your expensive aluminum head than it is plug life.

The plugs may last 100,000 miles but they may be permanent if you leave 'em in that long!

+1 Daniel. I feel it is a good idea to inspect the plugs at each oil change, comparing all plugs with each other that way you can note anything happening before it's gets to bad. It takes no time at all and it can be done while oil is dripping out. My plugs are just snug tight to avoid stretching the threads in the heads. No issues to date. IMHO.

[9Ball]

Just remember, anti-seize or not, the "replace" interval in the honda recommendations is more about not having a plug seize up in your expensive aluminum head than it is plug life.

The plugs may last 100,000 miles but they may be permanent if you leave 'em in that long!

+1 Daniel. I feel it is a good idea to inspect the plugs at each oil change, comparing all plugs with each other that way you can note anything happening before it's gets to bad. It takes no time at all and it can be done while oil is dripping out. My plugs are just snug tight to avoid stretching the threads in the heads. No issues to date. IMHO.

Quick inspection of the plug condition was the primary reason I got rid of the Kuryakyn spark plug valences.  Loved the way they looked, but it made inspecting the plugs a half hour job and always involved loosening and tightening the intake runners which put a bit of stress on the o-ring integrity.