Need help - Rear Brake Caliper Stopper Bolt

[Fritz The Cat]

What's the secret to getting this thing out? The manual just says remove it but It's super tight and I've turned way beyond the point where it should be unscrewed and there's still something holding it in.

Thanks

[9Ball]

they are notoriously tight....definitely use some penetrant and tap on the bolt, then let it sit for a bit.  It's a shoulder bolt so it only has threads on the front side and the rest is a pin....it may already be loose and just need some coaxing to pull out.  See part #11.

http://www.hdlparts.com/fiche_section_detail.asp?section=2136938&category=Motorcycles&make=HONDA&year=1999&fveh=124888

The torque spec for tightening is 51 lbf-ft....needs a bit of muscle.  Recommend using a six point socket so you don't end up rounding this off...

[Ricky-D]

Did ya get that?

A six point socket.

Most important and best information right there.

To do otherwise would be foolishly negligent.

***

[Bigwolf]

Fritz,  If I undersand correctly, you have turned the bolt several turns counterclockwise and it is still tight and does not want to come out.  Since this stopper bolt is really a pin with a bolt head and few threads right under the head, it should slide right out after a few turns counterclockwise.  It is number 11 in the parts diagram: http://www.hdlparts.com/fiche_section_detail.asp?section=2136942&category=Motorcycles&make=HONDA&year=2000&fveh=124892

Since yours is still tight after several turns counterclockwise I would suspect some serious corrosion on the pin part of the bolt.  JRhorton's advice is the best way to proceed to get it out.

Bigwolf

[Fritz The Cat]

I am indeed using a 6 point socket.  

I've managed to get it out another half inch by using a crowbar to apply outward pressure while I turn it with the air wrench. The air wrench will barely turn it, that's how tight it is. I'm also spraying some Teflon lube into it as I go and I lubed the tip of the crowbar. Is there any way to prevent this thing from getting so tight? Some kind of lubricant that won't turn to glue with time?

[Ricky-D]

On all the threads regarding this bolt

Antiseize compound is recommended.

***

[Fritz The Cat]

So far I've managed to work it out this far. hopefully it'll keep on coming.

[RainMaker]

I don't think you have any more threads on that bolt in the hole from looking at the picture.  Only the pin remains.

Have you loosened the axle nut so that the caliper bracket can move?  It might be keeping the pin from moving, although don't see how it would hold the pin versus a pry bar.

[Fritz The Cat]

Well, I got it out and got the wheel off.

No sir, don't like what I see.  





Any advice on how best to proceed much appreciated.

[RainMaker]

No photos - red squares.

[Fritz The Cat]

Hmmm, dunno why. Try these -

http://i.imgur.com/6W1RR.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/HCT2m.jpg

Whoever put the tires on her did not lube the splines. They are dry, rusty and severely worn. I know
I'll have to replace the male and female splines but what else should I replace while I have it apart?

[hubcapsc]

Hmmm, dunno why. Try these -

http://i.imgur.com/6W1RR.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/HCT2m.jpg

Whoever put the tires on her did not lube the splines. They are dry, rusty and severely worn. I know
I'll have to replace the male and female splines but what else should I replace while I have it apart?

Check both ends of the drive shaft, and the places the drive shaft connects (pinion cup and u-joint)...

I don't see any final drives on eBay right now. Big Mike of valkyrieblingandmore.com might have a line on one...

There's some folks on here who have rebuilt their final drives...

-Mike

[Cliff]

OMG those are some ugly pictures (depressing also)...  Definately check both ends of drive shaft and pinion cup (make sure the 2 holes in the back side of the cup are clear).  Mike is correct on ebay having nothing at the moment,, rebuild has been done... good luck,, my heart goes out to you..  


FLANGE SET
42630-MT8-305  001  $152.36

06 GEAR SET, FINAL
41310-MZ0-000  001  $241.29

http://www.hdlparts.com/fiche_section_detail.asp?section=2093149&category=Motorcycles&make=HONDA&year=2000&fveh=124340

[9Ball]

condolences...what a shame too...

[Fritz The Cat]

Gee, now I'm really depressed. 

Been doing some reading and it appears my rear wheel is OK. Bearing flush with housing, dampers appear to be in good shape. Next step is to check the drive shaft and open up the final drive. Hopefully I can find a final drive in good shape. If not, I'll rebuild.

[Cliff]

You're findings upon disassembly are the reason many of us prefer to do our own maintenance to be sure it is done correctly.

[Fritz The Cat]

Amen to that. 

Anybody know what holds the drive shaft in the final drive? Lots of pics and threads about it but nobody mentions how to get it out. 

[Grandpot]

It's held in with a round spring clip. Give the shaft a wiggle while you pull on it with some force.

[Cliff]

Hold the drive shaft with the "pumpkin" dangling down (above and close to something soft to catch it)
then start a downward motion and stop abruptly a couple times to pop the shaft out.

[hubcapsc]

Hold the drive shaft with the "pumpkin" dangling down (above and close to something soft to catch it)
then start a downward motion and stop abruptly a couple times to pop the shaft out.

The only time I ever had to do it that way, I was unhappy with what I saw when it finally came
out...

Good luck...

-Mike

[Fritz The Cat]

Had to tap on it with a dead blow hammer and she finally let go. Looks like I dodged another bullet. Everything looks OK to me.


http://i.imgur.com/c8MMI.jpg


http://i.imgur.com/wzNfI.jpg

[BonS]

Hmmm, dunno why. Try these -

http://i.imgur.com/6W1RR.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/HCT2m.jpg

Whoever put the tires on her did not lube the splines. They are dry, rusty and severely worn. I know
I'll have to replace the male and female splines but what else should I replace while I have it apart?

Your image links or pictures aren't working anymore. I'd love to see your situation.

[YoungPUP]

I hope your pinion cup and driveshaft pics are AFTER cleaning.....Mine came out with a nice wet mess of oil and grease. As for the caliper pin/bolt thingy I used emery cloth to clean the pin and made a spin stick, slotted the end of a piece of small round bar and wrapped it with emery cloth for cleaning the hole, and then got GENEROUS with the antisieze. I assume my semi-frozen pin came from my winter riding in the wet, salty, sloppy this past winter.

[old2soon]

Hmmm, dunno why. Try these -

http://i.imgur.com/6W1RR.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/HCT2m.jpg

Whoever put the tires on her did not lube the splines. They are dry, rusty and severely worn. I know
I'll have to replace the male and female splines but what else should I replace while I have it apart?

Yer linky no workee.  When i pulled that caliper stop bolt the FIRST time it totally kicked my butt. Guy across the street from me is a rider and loaned me his electric impact wrench.  End of problem BUT  i did replace the old bolt and used some of that copper anti seize.  All  better NOW.  RIDE SAFE.

[gordonv]

Where is it, Carolina Trike, for the rear o-rings, set of 5 for a good price. Do a search for Carolina.

[Cliff]

Hold the drive shaft with the "pumpkin" dangling down (above and close to something soft to catch it)
then start a downward motion and stop abruptly a couple times to pop the shaft out.

The only time I ever had to do it that way, I was unhappy with what I saw when it finally came
out...

Good luck...

-Mike

Always (6 times) had to do it that way with mine ... looked good each time.  (maybe stronger spring clip??  just a guess.....)

[Fritz The Cat]

I have no idea why the pics aren't showing. They show on all 3 of my computers in both FF and IE.  ???

[hubcapsc]

I have no idea why the pics aren't showing. They show on all 3 of my computers in both FF and IE.  ???

They all show up for me. They're hosted by imgur.com, I googled imgur, it is popular and
closely associated with social networks... maybe some people's (work?) firewalls block it?

-Mike

[BonS]

I have no idea why the pics aren't showing. They show on all 3 of my computers in both FF and IE.  ???

I'm guessing that the photos are local to your pc, or they are located where a password or sign-in is required, or they don't have a fixed (static) address. This is why many here use Photobucket or Photostash. I use Photobucket because Photostash limits storage space to 2MB. Photobucket is unlimited and getting the address of a photo is a single click.

[N0tac0p]

what two holes in  the pinion cup and for what purpose, does pumkin oil slosh up to the drive shaft?  i thoguht i clean efverything when i had mine aprt and re-mollyed everything?

somthing i shouldnt of done?

[RainMaker]

I have no idea why the pics aren't showing. They show on all 3 of my computers in both FF and IE.  ???

I'm guessing that the photos are local to your pc, or they are located where a password or sign-in is required, or they don't have a fixed (static) address. This is why many here use Photobucket or Photostash. I use Photobucket because Photostash limits storage space to 2MB. Photobucket is unlimited and getting the address of a photo is a single click.

Running Chrome, I never got them to load.  With Internet Explorer, the pics will load, albeit slowly.

[BonS]

Pictures are working fine now, thanks! In this picture there should be an o-ring in the groove at the bottom of the splines. Was it there? If not, that would be why the lubrication was slung out by centrifugal force and you ended up with a dry socket. Terrible outcome.

Also, the top rim of the flange looks like it may have been grinding metal-to-metal. Was the plastic(?) thrust washer that fits between the flange and the wheel hub there?

[Fritz The Cat]

O-ring wasn't there but the thrust washer was. seems to be in good shape too. Got new O-rings and thrust washer coming along with the rest of the parts.

[Chrisj CMA]

It looks like to me that a spacer was left out of the build.  The flange is not a stressed member of the torque line, but it would be if the spacer inside the final drive was left out.  it should look like this, that hollow post in the center is actually a removable spacer....it can fall out and it would be easy to forget to replace it

[Fritz The Cat]

Here's another shot. Looks like yours to me but not as clean.




Another question - Do i do the nut cage mod on both sides or just the right?

[gordonv]

I just looked over your posts again, and for what reason would you want to do the nut cage mod? That is for when you change to a car tire on the rear, and is 2/3rds, 2/3rds, kind of thing.

If you us the 205x55, don't need. 205x60 shouldn't need (stock tire size). 205x65 most likely will need (but not always).

If it doesn't rude, witha passenger, then you shouldn't need it.

If you are going to add a CT, and you want to make a project out of it before knowing, then go right ahead.

update note: I just noticed it was your other post about the mounting of the CT.

Same applies, wait till you know if it rubs before you do the mod.

[Fritz The Cat]

I'd rather not do the mod if it's not necessary.

Has anyone mounted a Falken Ziex ZE-512 205/65R-16   95H   B and not have it rub?

Thanks

[hubcapsc]

I'd rather not do the mod if it's not necessary.

Has anyone mounted a Falken Ziex ZE-512 205/65R-16   95H   B and not have it rub?

Thanks

Frank Smoak ran a Falken last time I talked to him. He used to say not to do the
mod unless you had too... I don't think he did it...

-Mike

[BonS]

Other things to consider are your shock settings, their length and the passenger + gear weight. My interstate with 12.5" Progressive shocks, with just me @ 165# rubbed with the Falken Ziex 205/65R16. The Progressive 12.5" shocks are supposed to be the closest to OEM length. I know that their 13" shocks are higher than OEM because I have them also. But again, mines and Interstate with all that extra plastic and chrome weight out back.

[Fritz The Cat]

Guess I'll give her a go. Sure what hate to have to pull the wheel again but "you's pays yo nickle and you's takes yo chance."

I was thinking about the problem and it occurred to me that it might be possible to spread the fender just a little where the nut cage is. Anybody know if this has been tried?