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4, 6, 3000, ect mod?

Started by franco6, Tue 02, Jun 2009, 23:48:53

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franco6

 :cooldude: there seem to be so much more power to be had  with the f6 . without giving up reliability and longevity, what is the best way to get the most bang for the money? alaso does any one know the higest mileage attained on a gl1500? stock or mod? gentlemen start your engines! thanks. ;D ;D
Enjoy the ride!

R J

DDT is coming up on 400.000 on his Tourer.
44 Harley ServiCar




 


Tundra

If I read this correctly, your question is 4 degree, 6 degree trigger wheel. Dyna-teck 3000 ignition, or ect mod.?  My opinion is the Dyna 3000. Better performance, better milage. adjustable. (much more $) Plug and play.
If you can't be a good example: be a WARNING!!

bassman

A little old and some of these items are probably no longer available or difficult to get but I've always found this info interesting.... 8)


http://www.timskelton.com/valkyrie/tech/dollars_per_hp.htm

chief120865

I have the 3000, cobras, and K/N without prefilter. dyon shows a 3-4% hp/torque gain, but powerband is much more broad and pulls from all rpm levels. I use setting 7. Since changing over my MPG went from 35-39 MPG to 40-44 mpg.

Jean the Black Wolf

are you crazy my bud Fred  :crazy2: :crazy2: :crazy2:
elle pousse asser comme ça non ?
she's sufficiently powerful no ? ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha 
keep in touch Bro
happy to have telephoned to you  :cooldude: :cooldude:
Size does matter...........Aouhhhhhhhhhhh!!!!!!


Tundra

Bassman, Good information, Thanks  :cooldude:
If you can't be a good example: be a WARNING!!

humshark

I went with the ETC mod. 
When I'm tooling around the "little" hills South of Nashville, I get 37+ MPG at full advance. ( typical rpm 2000 to 2750, pre carb balancing )

When in traffic I dial the advance off.  Idle comes down and there is less heat. 

I run Mid or Premium but can run anything.  I dial the advance to compensate for a clear head free from the worry of inaudible "ping". ???
99 Interstate
05 FJR
97 Vulcan '88' Hacked

franco6

Humshark  :cooldude:it looks like the mod is the less intrusive solution and the least expensive. now the question is how do we know if the module is working right in the first place? i ve tested the temp sender and it does what it s suposed to but when the bike starts cold the module does not bring the rpm up as i read it should. the f6 runs fine other wise though i d like better mileage and to get rid of that out of breath feeling when first accelerating in higher gear.      hey bassman thanks for the info.you play bass? :cooldude: :cooldude: :cooldude: :cooldude:   
Enjoy the ride!

Jabba

I have a Dyna 3000 and like it.  I run it on 5 I think... most of the time, and will turn it to stock for long trips so I can run 87 octane gas in it.  Otherwise I run 93.

I only get about 27 MPG in mine.  I don't know HOW anyone gets 40.

Jabba

humshark

Quotewhen the bike starts cold the module does not bring the rpm up as i read it should.

When cold, there is no evidence of the ETC mod being installed.  Once up to running temperature, the increase in idle speed is noticed.  The ETC mod effectively tricks the bike into thinking it's always colder than it really is when it is dialed up.

I chose to modify and looking back I think I would seek out a LINEAR 10K pot and not an AUDIO taper type.  The Audio type will increase resistance logarithmically.  Mine was of poor quality at radio shack.  It made it very touchy.

I removed the resistor and tied both "wings" together.  This will give me 0 Ohms at the ends and 2.5k in the middle.  I measured with a meter and set my knob indicator for CENTER at this highest resistance.  I'm going to go take a test ride now, so I'll let you know how she does!

The setup on the Shop Talk page, using a 3.9k across one "wing" and the center gives you an increasing value from 0 to 2.8k.  I don't have a linear 10k pot here or I would try that as well. 

The nice thing about the adjustable, is that when you are "trapped" in traffic you can dial it down and lower the rpm without having to shift to neutral.  I decided against the clutch mod for two reasons.
     1) More splices and wiring / diode  ( i have many diodes - but a failed diode would be confusing to troubleshoot if not familiar with the circuit )
     2) The I don't mind the increase.  If I'm at a long light, i pop it in neutral.  If I'm in traffic, I dial it down.

The mod shines because it doesn't effect high end performance. ( above 3.5k RPM )  That means you get the grunt when pulling around corners and jacking up hills.  I live in TN and love the performance!  A friend that normally rides a Eltra-Glide got stuck and because he wanted to ride so badly here, he rode the Valk, while i rode the FJR.  He was completely blown away that he didn't have to shift going around the corners and up and down the hills.  Now any Valk - mod'ed or not will do that in comparison to most any V-twin, but I likes to think the extra low-end kick got his attention!
99 Interstate
05 FJR
97 Vulcan '88' Hacked