HVAC question: non valk

[hubcapsc]

I have an air handler hanging in the crawl space.

The drain line where the condensation is supposed to come out is not clogged,
but the condensation is mostly just dripping from the air handler, and even
from the main duct line.

The head D00d at the HVAC place is out of town for a few days, so one of the
installers came over today to look at it. My wife just called, she said he blew
a couple of puffs of compressed air up the drain line and said, "it's  not clogged,
must be OK", and took off.

I think the condensation's supposed to mostly come out of the drain line,
and that there's not supposed to be condensation constantly raining from
the air handler enclosure resulting in a giant permanent wet spot in the crawl
space, and that there's not supposed to be a well formed
drip line from the constant raining of drips from the main duct work.

What do y'all think?

-Mike

[KY,Dave (AKA Misunderstood)]

Mike, found this discussion on the topic that sounds similar.
1 person posted a pdf of install instructions. Some felt the p-trap wasn't adequate as well as air flow causing coils to freeze and then thaw leaving the moisture.
http://hvac-talk.com/vbb/showthread.php?619612-Condensation-Leaking-From-Air-Handler

[hubcapsc]

Mike, found this discussion on the topic that sounds similar.
1 person posted a pdf of install instructions. Some felt the p-trap wasn't adequate as well as air flow causing coils to freeze and then thaw leaving the moisture.
http://hvac-talk.com/vbb/showthread.php?619612-Condensation-Leaking-From-Air-Handler

Hi Dave...

My condensing unit (the outside unit) was bad, and the coils in the air handler were freezing up.

I got a new condensing unit a month or so ago,and now the coils are not freezing - at
least the copper line in the couple of places where it is visible is not freezing now, like it was. I guess I
should crawl up in there and take the door off the air handler and look directly at the coils... 

Before, when the condensing unit was bad, the copper line between the condensing unit and the air handler
actually turned white with frost when the coils froze.

I'll have a look directly at the coils when I get home tonight...

The P-trap has been the same since everything was installed in the first place around y2k.

At the beginning of every summer before the first time I switch on the AC I blow through the
drain line (the P-trap is in the drain line) to make sure it is not clogged. This year, when I blow
through the drain pipe, it "feels different", like it is not connected to anything inside the air handler.

-Mike

[KY,Dave (AKA Misunderstood)]

Mike, found this discussion on the topic that sounds similar.
1 person posted a pdf of install instructions. Some felt the p-trap wasn't adequate as well as air flow causing coils to freeze and then thaw leaving the moisture.
http://hvac-talk.com/vbb/showthread.php?619612-Condensation-Leaking-From-Air-Handler

Hi Dave...

My condensing unit (the outside unit) was bad, and the coils in the air handler were freezing up.

I got a new condensing unit a month or so ago,and now the coils are not freezing - at
least the copper line in the couple of places where it is visible is not freezing now, like it was. I guess I
should crawl up in there and take the door off the air handler and look directly at the coils... 

Before, when the condensing unit was bad, the copper line between the condensing unit and the air handler
actually turned white with frost when the coils froze.

I'll have a look directly at the coils when I get home tonight...

The P-trap has been the same since everything was installed in the first place around y2k.

At the beginning of every summer before the first time I switch on the AC I blow through the
drain line (the P-trap is in the drain line) to make sure it is not clogged. This year, when I blow
through the drain pipe, it "feels different", like it is not connected to anything inside the air handler.

-Mike

Mike, just so ya know. I am not in the business. Was just trying to take a stab in the dark. Hope someone who knows moore can see this and help more.

[Jack]

Call the HVAC company and tell them to send somebody ELSE out and look at your problem.  Tell them they will pay for any damages caused by the leaks.

Airflow is likely the cause but low refrigerant may be part.  My bet is airflow.  Changed the filter lately?

[Jess Tolbirt]

when the AC runs it draws moisture out of the air, thats what it is supposed to do..up to about 5 gallons per hour,, it runs off of the A coil and drips down onto a catch pan. the catch pan is where the drain line is connected,, it should drain to the outside someplace..those mounted in the attic has a secondary catch pan and also drains outside..if the AC loses freon it will freeze the moisture it gets from the air and cause low air flow,, a clogged filter will cause the same thing...also with freon loss it will freeze until it loses quite a bit of it...the correct charge would have the evap running about 38 degrees which would not freeze up...
check your draqin line connection to the drain pan and check the drain pan for rust,,,you will have to pull the side off to do this,,

[jimmytee]

Hey Mike,

Just so you know, I'm a commercial HVAC-Refrigeration technician of 25 years.
The condensate problem you describe does on the surface seem to be a plugged drain. I'm a little dismayed that because your coil inside and lines were freezing that your condensing unit was replaced. I hope there were other reasons to justify the replacement. Freezing evaporator coils can usually be traced to theses conditions
1) a low charge condition
2) low or restricted airflow...can be caused by dirty filter(s) ,dirty evaporator coil,dirty duct work, improper sizing of duct work ,dirty blower/fan, improper fan speed or motor failure,bad fan belt(s)or control issue(s)
3)problems with refrigeration circuit
4)operating the air conditioner in conditions not designed or equipped. Many commercial applications require air conditioning when temperatures outdoors (low temps) require special controls to operate. These conditions can make an a/c system perform like it were low on charge without these" low ambient controls".
Also operating the a/c at an indoor set point below capabilities can do the same.

All these things can cause the freezing you described. As far as the condensate problem, when coils freeze, water can drip inside the air handler where it shouldn't causing water to drip outside the unit where it shouldn't. Water can be wicked off of the evaporator by the blower also when various conditions with air flow or dirt are present.
Outside of freezing, of course there can be a physical problem with drain pan itself.
Another thing to consider is the environment that the air handler is operating. Poor insulation in the duct work and air handler can cause it to sweat when the conditions around it are right, such as high humidity/high dew point. Most likely , if this is a recently new symptom then this is unlikely.

Take a look inside of your air handler and tell what you find.
Hopefully your problem can be resolved soon. Back to the condensing unit having been replaced, if your problem before had been related to a low charge condition,  just the act of replacing your condensing unit may have only temporarily fixed your problem as you may very well still have a leak. The refrigerant in the system would have to leak out somewhere. The installation of the new condensing unit "should have " resolved a low charge condition just by virtue of proper installation. Does not mean it was necessary .  And if it had been a low charge situation, and the leak was anywhere but the condensing unit, you will again have this condition until the leak is repaired.
Jim

[hubcapsc]

Hey Jack, Jess and Jimmy...

Thanks for the replies...

Freezing evaporator coils can usually be traced to theses conditions
1) a low charge condition


That's what it was... Mr. Webb came out and charged it up the last couple of summers, obviously
there was a leak somewhere, so this summer they came out and traced it for a while, it
was a "rusted out" connection into the back of the condenser unit... they said since it was over
ten years old that I had gotten the use out of the condenser unit and should replace it, so
I did. They don't seem to think much of the quality of new HVAC stuff as compared to "the old days"...
what do y'all think about that?


Take a look inside of your air handler and tell what you find.

The coils are not frozen. The pan is half full of water, and it is soaked all inside the
air handler. The drain line seems clear, but it sure seems like there's a lot of water
inside the pan. Water kind of drizzles out the end of the drain line, but most of the
condensation seems to be staying inside the air handler, and going into the
main duct.









The connection between the air handler and the main duct  seems not
so good. Air infiltration here is probably bad? There's a lot of water here.



It is always wet under the new condenser unit too...



We try to keep up with the filters, I just checked the downstairs filter
and it seems fine. Mr. Webb has us use the thin disposable filters and
change them at least once a month.

-Mike

[jimmytee]

Mike,
Got a couple of questions.
From the pictures and photo of the drain where the evaporator is exposed, which way is the air flowing? With the system shut off does it seem to drain faster?
Your drain pan being half full of water seems high as you've stated. Make shure that there is no obstruction in the pan at the drain outlet.
Gotta finnish mowing will check back in awhile
units are made cheaper in general and not all manufacturers equal. Some weaknesses in manufacturing I believe can also be from thinner materials in trying coax more heat transfer for minimum efficiency standards as well
Jim

[hubcapsc]

From the pictures and photo of the drain where the evaporator is exposed, which way is the air flowing?


The return in the house is right above the air handler, so the air comes down from above. The
main duct connects to the air handler out of this picture towards the right...




With the system shut off does it seem to drain faster?

I was down there 20 minutes or more with the system shut off... I don't think the
pan drained any appreciable amount.

Your drain pan being half full of water seems high as you've stated. Make shure that there is no obstruction in the pan at the drain outlet.

I can blow through the drain line from the outside end. I couldn't really stick my head in there
and view the drain inlet, but I stuck my finger in there and didn't feel anything... still, it seems
wrong, maybe half clogged or something... ? Maybe I better go back down there in the
morning and try to focus on what's going on with the drain line connection to the pan...

-Mike

[jimmytee]

Mike,
I was looking at your pics on my phone earlier,trying to beat the rapid loss of daylight for mowing.
Now that I've finished and take a second look I see one of my questions is answered by your pics. Your air is pulled through your evaporator by the blower. What this means is that if you don't have a trap on your drain, it will have a hard time draining because of negative static air pressure on the drain. Without a trap,the blower will pull air through the drain, not allowing water to flow out as desired. This negative pressure and become greater if your filters are dirty, dirty return registers and dirty evaporator coil. A trap provides a water seal to prevent the air handler from pulling air through the drain line. However, if the above conditions are bad enough, even the trap may not be enough.

The picture shows that you may indeed have debris in your drain pan.  If you can't physically see inside the pan, unscrew your drain from the unit,may require you to cut the line and then use a coupling to re assemble. You'd see the opening from the outside in .

The other side of your evaporator is where most of the dirt will collect and plug up your evaporator. I do not recommend the really cheap filters made of fiberglass. These filters are very course and let way too much dirt thru. If that is what you've used, your coil is probably dirty, I'd switch to the pleated filter version of your size.
Jim

[JWV 99 I]

Not an HVAC mechanic, but is there a trap in the drain.  The trap must be greater(depth) that he pessure in the unit from the flow. I would also clean the pan as well as there may be some bugs growing there that are not too healthy. I am an engineer and over see large consruction projects, and have had the trap issue at by own home.
Hope this helps.

[hubcapsc]

There's a trap...

Cutting off the drain line is a great idea I'd not have thought of  , easy
to put back together...

There's definately "stuff" in the pan... I'll clean it, make sure the drain line is good,
and maybe things will go back to normal...

Is this "the other side" of the evaporator?



-Mike

[jimmytee]

Mike,
No, the "other side" I was referring to, is the side you are not seeing from your picture. It would be the side that the air enters. Your picture shows the leaving side of the coil. Looking at the leaving side, though, it looks like there is dirt, so I'd bet the entering side is very dirty. In case my terminology is foreign to you, entering and leaving  refer to the air flow and its direction though coil. Dirt will accumulate plugging the fins of the coil and can and will accumulate in the coil. Your filter is always on the entering side of your evaporator.
Jim

[BF]

Sounds like you need to get jimmytee over there and have him put a set of guages on it.   

Also looks like that AHU (air handling unit) has been under your house for awhile.  Thought about upgrading to something more efficient?  Got an old closet in the house that you could modify it to where you could relocate the AHU to?  Would probably be better off inside the house than under it. 

btw.....cut that elbow out and replace it with a tee.  Glue in a short piece on the top of the tee....put a pvc cap on top of the stub out piece.  Don't glue it. 

Once or twice a year, take the cap off and pour some bleach down the drain.  Should help to keep the crud from growing in your drain and keep it from clogging up (unless you've got rust plugging it up from your old AHU deteriorating and getting old). 

[jimmytee]

Sounds like you need to get jimmytee over there and have him put a set of guages on it.   

Also looks like that AHU (air handling unit) has been under your house for awhile.  Thought about upgrading to something more efficient?  Got an old closet in the house that you could modify it to where you could relocate the AHU to?  Would probably be better off inside the house than under it. 

btw.....cut that elbow out and replace it with a tee.  Glue in a short piece on the top of the tee....put a pvc cap on top of the stub out piece.  Don't glue it. 

Once or twice a year, take the cap off and pour some bleach down the drain.  Should help to keep the crud from growing in your drain and keep it from clogging up (unless you've got rust plugging it up from your old AHU deteriorating and getting old). 

+1

[Jabba]

Water under the condensing unit makes no sense though...  unless it's rain or ground water.


Jabba

[hubcapsc]

Water under the condensing unit makes no sense though...  unless it's rain or ground water.


Jabba

It is not rain or ground water...



-Mike

[hubcapsc]

Also looks like that AHU (air handling unit) has been under your house for awhile.  Thought about upgrading to something more efficient?  Got an old closet in the house that you could modify it to where you could relocate the AHU to?  Would probably be better off inside the house than under it. 

I hope to continue limping along for a while, but like the condensing unit, I'll replace what I have to.

When there's the money, I envision upgrading the whole mess to top-of-the-line
ground source heat pump and hard duct work instead of those floppy tubes  ...

When it is 50 out, my heat pump blows out nice warm air, but when it is 25 or 30 degrees,
it blows out "room temperature" air... I think a ground source heat pump, exchanging heat with
55 degree water in underground pipes, will always blow out nice warm air - is that a
reasonable expectation? A normal heat pump can keep your house at whatever reasonable
temperature you set the thermostat at, but there's no "ahhh!" standing at the register
when you come in from outside on a cold wet day...

-Mike

[Jack]

It takes a LONG time to break even with the expense of a ground source heat pump.  Personally, I would not go that way and I talk to ground-source installers every day.  Your money would be well spent replacing those"floppy tubes" with pipe if you did nothing else.  Still, I would replace the whole system if it can be worked into your budget.  The new systems (410a)are more efficient than what you now have and that R-22 is going to be priced higher and higher. 
My daughter had a system much like yours and it was replaced with a basic 13 SEER Rheem Heat Pump this past Spring.  She also had the "floppy tubes" replaced.  She says her family is comfortable for the first time since they have lived there and her utility bills are lower.

[Jabba]

Also looks like that AHU (air handling unit) has been under your house for awhile.  Thought about upgrading to something more efficient?  Got an old closet in the house that you could modify it to where you could relocate the AHU to?  Would probably be better off inside the house than under it. 

I hope to continue limping along for a while, but like the condensing unit, I'll replace what I have to.

When there's the money, I envision upgrading the whole mess to top-of-the-line
ground source heat pump and hard duct work instead of those floppy tubes  ...

When it is 50 out, my heat pump blows out nice warm air, but when it is 25 or 30 degrees,
it blows out "room temperature" air... I think a ground source heat pump, exchanging heat with
55 degree water in underground pipes, will always blow out nice warm air - is that a
reasonable expectation? A normal heat pump can keep your house at whatever reasonable
temperature you set the thermostat at, but there's no "ahhh!" standing at the register
when you come in from outside on a cold wet day...

-Mike

The ground loop will not be 55 in the winter.  They get colder than that.  But yes... water source heat pumps do a lot better than the air coupled ones.

If I were you... I'd have installed an all new AHU and ACCU and upgraded to R410A.  R22 is going away fast brother.

Tell me more about your house.  Are you on a well?  Is the area wet?  I am an HVAC designer and there are a MILLION ways to skin the cat.

Jabba

[hubcapsc]

Jack: It takes a LONG time to break even with the expense of a ground source heat pump. 

I'm talking out of my hat here, because I don't know the cost yet, but I am motivated by
the idea of warm air coming out of my registers when it is 35 degrees outside, not by
the idea of having an HVAC that costs less to run... am I off base thinking that the air
from the registers will be warmer when the outside air temps go down?

Anywho...

Jim: No, the "other side" I was referring to, is the side you are not seeing from your picture. It would be the side that the air enters

OK... I went under there and looked, I understand now... should I remove this bit of duct
and clean "the other side" of the coils from there, or is it that easy? It looks like I could just
carefully cut the tape all the way around and it would come off, clean (vacuum? Hose off?),
then re-tape...



Here's the trap... when I first started this thread, I said: This year, when I blow
through the drain pipe, it "feels different", like it is not connected to anything inside the air handler.
... but now that I've been talking to y'all, and crawling around under there gaining more understanding
about how this stuff works and is put together, I think maybe it "feels different" because there's
no water in the trap...



oops...



-Mike

[Kep]

28 years as HVACR tech/installer and own my own business.....Hard to tell from picture but make certain that the air handler is raised in the rear enough to allow slope to the drain. I have seen over time straps that hold them up sag or blocks that they set on settle and cause water to stand in the drain pan. And it must have a trap in the condensate drain line as soon as it comes out of the drain pan..alot of HVAC installers don't understand this concept. You must have water standing in the drain line to create resistance in order to eliminate negative static pressure that would keep water from draining out or the drain pan.As far as the condensing unit being replaced to fix "freeze-up" problem..most leaks I've found are in the evaporater coil as this area is wet most of the time and more suseptable to corrosion , espaecially on the return bends of the coil (little 180 degree elbows on the coil).Amen on the geothermal heat pumps...takes too many years to re-coup the cost of install in energy savings..air filters/I've always used cheap ones and changed more often-pleated filters restrict air flow and decrease efficiency...."floppy lines"- (Insulated flex duct) very energy efficient,no heat loss or heat gain , never corrodes.....just my experience and opinion.

[Kep]

P.S. Make sure your crawl space vents are closed..on high humidy days , moisture will gravitate to your ductwork like metal to a magnet.

[hubcapsc]

Tell me more about your house.  Are you on a well?  Is the area wet?

Howdy Jabba...

I built my house myself... the only thing I didn't do is the HVAC (I wired it), the
septic tank (I ran all the lines to it) and the kitchen cabinets. The house has pine
doors salvaged from an old house in clayton georgia, some high end Pella windows,
and some fairly-air-tight-for-single-pane windows with sash weights because I
wanted some windows with sash weights  - it is not "tight" like a
professionally built tyvek wrapped house... I trenched in city water from out at the road...

The house is in the woods, near the top of the hill... 100 yards and 50 or 75 feet of elevation
drop away is a big creek. It is always dry up here. All electric, no desire, and no easy way, to
get gas...



-Mike

[Jess Tolbirt]

Jack: It takes a LONG time to break even with the expense of a ground source heat pump.

I'm talking out of my hat here, because I don't know the cost yet, but I am motivated by
the idea of warm air coming out of my registers when it is 35 degrees outside, not by
the idea of having an HVAC that costs less to run... am I off base thinking that the air
from the registers will be warmer when the outside air temps go down?

Anywho...

Jim: No, the "other side" I was referring to, is the side you are not seeing from your picture. It would be the side that the air enters

OK... I went under there and looked, I understand now... should I remove this bit of duct
and clean "the other side" of the coils from there, or is it that easy? It looks like I could just
carefully cut the tape all the way around and it would come off, clean (vacuum? Hose off?),
then re-tape...



Here's the trap... when I first started this thread, I said: This year, when I blow
through the drain pipe, it "feels different", like it is not connected to anything inside the air handler.
... but now that I've been talking to y'all, and crawling around under there gaining more understanding
about how this stuff works and is put together, I think maybe it "feels different" because there's
no water in the trap...



oops...



-Mike

go get a couple of couplings and cut the drain out,, when you cut it just after the first 90, you might get wet because all that water in your pan will come rushing out,,or at least it should,, the cut the drain off the other side and take it out and clean it out...for some reason your water aint draining and there is only one cause for that, stoppage some where..

[Jabba]

I was trying to brain storm you an idea for a earth coupled system.  Like an open loop to a well or two.  Doesn't sound too promising.

Vertical wells is probably your best bet.  A local loop guy would know the details of how much well field you will need in your area.  It varies all over the country.

Jabba

[Jabba]

The necessity of the trap hinges on if it's a blow thru, or draw thru coil.

If the coil is AFTER the fan... the trap is optional.  If the coil is BEFORE the fan, you NEED a trap, and it HAS to be deep enough to create a water seal that's greater than the pressure of the fan.  Or it'll never drain.

Jabba

[Jess Tolbirt]

but it has been working for years so the things that are in place should be sufficient

[Jabba]

but it has been working for years so the things that are in place should be sufficient

I concur.

Sometimes I get mired down in theory...

Jabba

[BF]

but it has been working for years so the things that are in place should be sufficient

Not neccessarily.  His air handler is in a nasty environment under his house.....just look at all of that clay all over it. 

I'd bet that his current problem is a simple drain problem.....but all of that clay dust WILL eventually get into everything....his evaporator coil, the squirrel cage and the blower motor and it's going to cost him in the furture...if not sooner. 

It's JMHO, but when it comes time to replace it, he should really think about relocating his AHU somewhere else....garage, interior closet, etc.......and get rid of all that flex duct under his house and have his hvac d00d run a duct board system with drops in each room of his house up in his attic. 

Jabba is the design engineer.  I'd bet that if Mike sent him a set of his house drawings, Jabba could design a system for him no problem. 



Mike....cut the pvc right in front of that 90 that turns down coming out of the AHU.  Like Jess said, then you'll be able to tell if it's your drain line, or if the pan is clogged up at the drain hole.  Your pan is probably full of crud and has blocked the drain hole coming out of the pan.  You'll know after you cut the line.  After you cut off that 90, put a tee in there with a stub out with a cap so you can service your drain (and pour some bleach in it) later when it's needed. 

[jimmytee]

Mike,
As far as cleaning, there is cleaning solution designed for this purpose, but some simple green diluted and sprayed into the coil and with a controlled spray of a water hose to rinse along with a shop vac for good measure will provide a thorough job of cleaning. If you must, remove duct for access. I' ve had many techniques, all of which vary from scenario to scenario.
Jim

[hubcapsc]

  His air handler is in a nasty environment under his house.....just look at all of that clay all over it. 

I'd bet that his current problem is a simple drain problem.....but all of that clay dust WILL eventually get into everything....his evaporator coil, the squirrel cage and the blower motor and it's going to cost him in the furture...if not sooner. 

It's JMHO, but when it comes time to replace it, he should really think about relocating his AHU somewhere else....garage, interior closet, etc

We have a funny little house, low sloped standing seam roof, two story in one section... no room in the attic for anything, might be hard to run a
bunch of different duct work at this point... there's an air handler upstairs in the closet, and there's a closet I might be able to put one in downstairs...






.......and get rid of all that flex duct under his house and have his hvac d00d run a duct board system with drops in each room of his house up in his attic.   

I just read up on duct board... seems like cool stuff...



Jabba is the design engineer.  I'd bet that if Mike sent him a set of his house drawings, Jabba could design a system for him no problem. 

What are these "house drawings" you speak of? 


Mike....cut the pvc right in front of that 90 that turns down coming out of the AHU.  Like Jess said, then you'll be able to tell if it's your drain line, or if the pan is clogged up at the drain hole.  Your pan is probably full of crud and has blocked the drain hole coming out of the pan.  You'll know after you cut the line.  After you cut off that 90, put a tee in there with a stub out with a cap so you can service your drain (and pour some bleach in it) later when it's needed. 

Going to Lowes this afternoon... Leaving for the meet in the middle ride in the morning, but whacking off a pvc pipe and cleaning
the pan shouldn't take long...

-Mike

[hubcapsc]

Mike,
As far as cleaning, there is cleaning solution designed for this purpose, but some simple green diluted and sprayed into the coil and with a controlled spray of a water hose to rinse along with a shop vac for good measure will provide a thorough job of cleaning. If you must, remove duct for access. I' ve had many techniques, all of which vary from scenario to scenario.
Jim

I've seen the spray can of stuff for cleaning the coils... doesn't seem like I can get to the intake side of the coils,
where we think it is probably dirty... if I decide to remove the duct their, it seems like I'll have full access to the
dirty side of the coils... I hope removing the duct doesn't turn out to be a bad idea... might not do that before
I leave on the Meet In The Middle ride in the morning...

-Mike

[Jess Tolbirt]

i have to add,, i work maint now for a property company and i find a lot of times the drain from the pan to the main line will 99% of the time be clogged up with slimy cruddy nasty stuff,,even in the p-trap,,,i will almost bet your problem is the same,,also like all the others have said,,clean the coils also and if you can spare the expense,,relocate the air handler...

[BF]

Mike......

It's nothing to remove that piece of flex duct from your AHU.  In most cases, it's put on and sucured with a zip tie (or a couple of them zipped together) and taped to seal it to the AHU.  

It's the same to reinstall it.  Just zip tie it on and seal it with duct tape (use the metal tape if you can get it).  Smooth out the tape with a tape squeegee (or a fairly stiff piece of cardboard or something simular).  



I just went back and took a second look at your pics.  At first look, it looks like the ducts are flex duct.....but looking again, they look more like metal round duct with a wrap.  If it's round metal duck, it'll be attached to the AHU by interlocking tabs.  You can disconnect it by bending back all of those little tabs.  Goes back together the same way. 

[Jabba]

There is some new ductboard stuff out there called KoolDuct.  i just had it installed in my crawlspace.  Now... my AHU's are in the house... but the supply duct in the crawl doesn't bother me any.

Jabba.

[hubcapsc]

Here's the goop that was in the line at the tray...



Here's the new Tee...



I got all the water out of the pan, cleaned a bunch of crud out of it, and filled
the trap back up after I was done (don't know if that was necessary)... Carolyn just
came in and said, "It smells different now, it smells like air conditioning" 

Check out this plug that I noticed was missing... it was sucking a ton of outside air
into the air handler... I put tape over it for now... I wouldn't be surprised if this was
a big part of the problem.



I still plan to clean the intake side of the coils when I get back from this weekend's ride.
Who knows, maybe I'll look under there in the morning before I go and stuff won't
look drippy...

Thanks for all the help...

-Mike

[KY,Dave (AKA Misunderstood)]

Have a good ride Mike 

[donaldcc]

Here's the goop that was in the line at the tray...


. . . .
Thanks for all the help...

-Mike

  this has been an interesting post to follow.  Not Valk related, but a guy with a problem and members with knowledge and expertise jumping in with good advice to solve the problem. 

  Hope to hear "Problem Solved" in the next days or so.