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Inzane 17

Rotella synth

Started by Scanner, Fri 12, Jun 2009, 18:25:36

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Scanner

Did an oil change last night using Rotella Synth 05-40.  Nice....seemed to really quiet Bertha down and she runs smooooth. Highly recommended.
Reality - it's nice here, come visit sometime!

Bladedog

Did 120 miles after switching to the Rotella, and already noticed the smoother shifting.  We'll see if there's any fuel economy difference when I fill up again.
It's easier to get forgiveness than permission. 

thewoodman

I started using the Rotella T Synthetic 5-40 about 16,000 miles ago with good results, especially better shifting compared to the Castrol 20-50 I'd been using in the GL1200s I had for the previous 20 years. The closest WalMart stopped carrying it, (though I did find it later at a different store) so I bought some Mobil 1 5-40 synthetic for turbo diesel trucks. I just did an oil change yesterday and rode to work this morning like I do most every day and it shifts even smoother. The motor seems quieter too. I wonder why? I just love these oil threads.


The first step in getting somewhere is deciding that you are not going to stay where you are.

TheWoodMan

godfire

I've used Rotella Synth for the last 25K miles. The local Autozone carries it as well as Wallie World.
Ride Safe
Ride Often

aviaator

Keep in mind Rotella synth is a diesel oil and is LOADED with detergents.  If you have any oil leak, Rotella will find it and exploit it.  I used Rotella on my Valk once, found two oil leaks i didn't know existed >:( (one was the shifter shaft seal).  Never used it since.

Same thing on my gasser Mercedes -- oil leaks galore once I switched to Rotella!

It's not bad oil; just that it will leak out of even the smallest pinhole (that you didn't know existed).

Mike (aviaator)
'97 Tourer
'00 I/S
VRCC 27632
Southern Cruisers Manassas, VA Chapter

SANDMAN5

QuoteKeep in mind Rotella synth is a diesel oil and is LOADED with detergents.  If you have any oil leak, Rotella will find it and exploit it.  I used Rotella on my Valk once, found two oil leaks i didn't know existed  (one was the shifter shaft seal).  Never used it since.

Same thing on my gasser Mercedes -- oil leaks galore once I switched to Rotella!

It's not bad oil; just that it will leak out of even the smallest pinhole (that you didn't know existed).
On the other hand....ain't it better to find small leaks before they become big leaks? I've
used Rotella in both my Valks and ain't neither one dripped a drop. Total of about 20,000 miles.
"Evolution" is a dying religion being kept alive with tax dollars.



aviaator

The point I was trying to make was: most [older] engines have areas around gaskets/seals/etc that are not leaking b/c they're "clogged" with sludge or some other type of engine grime.  A high detergent oil like Rotella will "unclog" it and create a leak where one previously did not exist - and might not have even started otherwise.

Glad to hear your Valks leaked nary a drop.  Others might not be so fortunate.
'97 Tourer
'00 I/S
VRCC 27632
Southern Cruisers Manassas, VA Chapter

Master Blaster

I use it in everything I own, diesel and gas, truck, cars, motorcycles, lawn tractors, you name it.  Been that way for years, no problems.
"Nothing screams bad craftsmanship like wrinkles in your duct tape."

Gun controll is not about guns, its about CONTROLL.

daytona

Mobil 1 15w50  :cooldude: Diesel eng for me. True synthetic! The rest are on crack!


Hydrocracked/Hydroisomerized = API Group III base oils. Chevron, Shell, and other petrochemical companies developed processes involving catalytic conversion of feed stocks under pressure in the presence of hydrogen into high quality mineral lubricating oil. In 2005 production of GTL (Gas-to-liquid) Group III base stocks began. Even though they are considered a synthetic product they are still mineral base stocks and counted as the mineral part of all semi-synthetic lubricants. Group III base stocks [with certain amount of mixture of PAOs and esters and Group V] are considered synthetic motor oil ONLY in the United States.[citation needed] Group III based lubricants are not allowed to be marketed as "synthetic" in any market outside of the USA. 
Just started!

daytona

Just started!

BF

Don't know all the oil science behind it (or really care), but my Fat Lady didn't really quite down with anything I used untill I went with Mobil 20w-50 synthetic motorcycle oil.   :cooldude:
I can't help about the shape I'm in
I can't sing, I ain't pretty and my legs are thin
But don't ask me what I think of you
I might not give the answer that you want me to



franco6

Enjoy the ride!

Airetime

Quote from: aviaator on Mon 15, Jun 2009, 13:04:13
Keep in mind Rotella synth is a diesel oil and is LOADED with detergents.  If you have any oil leak, Rotella will find it and exploit it.  I used Rotella on my Valk once, found two oil leaks i didn't know existed >:( (one was the shifter shaft seal).  Never used it since.

Same thing on my gasser Mercedes -- oil leaks galore once I switched to Rotella!

It's not bad oil; just that it will leak out of even the smallest pinhole (that you didn't know existed).

Mike (aviaator)
Too bad our synthetic oil selections have narrowed over the years due to the "Friction Modifiers" that have been added to our favorite oils (thanks epa)  :tickedoff: Although synthetic oils in general may contain detergents, the high majority of the time they do fine in our Valks. All we can work with is what we have and Rottella is one of the few oils left that works well. Chances are you would have had the same problems with any "synthetic oil" so you have to make your own decision, keep the sludge or fix what needs to be fixed.

Duey


daytona

What ever works for U is what is the best! The 15w50 M 1 diesel has no modifiers just like the Rotella T but is real syn. cold start flowability is what we need, the Valk will never need the hi temp protection that syn is known for. $75.00 oil changes just aren't for me.
Just started!

Larry

I use 10-30 Mobil 1, not for high milage engines and find it works well fro me  :) . I can usually buy 1 Gal for about $28 and the filter about $10 for chrome. My friend had a mid-80's 1200 wing that used to use Rotella, he found he used oil which does not happen so much now since he switched to regular oil again. I sent him the infor from here on why the Rotella would seem to get consummed in his bike. He isn't one to fix stuff unless it REALLY needs it! So, for him a bit of sludge is a good thing. Tends to keep the leaks to a minimum.  ;D Also no more smell from the "Rosmella" when I'm following him and that's a good thing!
To Ride or Not To Ride? RIDE of course!!!

DeathWishBikerDude

I buy the cheapest synthetic I can find.
Super tech from wally world.
I change my oil every year,about every 5000 miles.
Doesn't make sense to buy the more expensive stuff.
Bike runs silently.
:coolsmiley:

Duey

miles on.. I just keep an eye on the condition of the oil and change at the 8000 mile interval. I also use amsoil synthetic so I could technically go 25,000 if I really wanted to. I do in my car. The price of oil is a small factor in the maintenance of my Valk. Aint nothing to good for it!  :cooldude:

Airetime

Quote from: daytona on Tue 16, Jun 2009, 16:06:30
What ever works for U is what is the best! The 15w50 M 1 diesel has no modifiers just like the Rotella T but is real syn. cold start flowability is what we need, the Valk will never need the hi temp protection that syn is known for. $75.00 oil changes just aren't for me.

??? Gotta disagree here as "ALL" Mobil One oils have the dreaded friction modifiers in the new formulas according to the Tech Department at Mobil One. I emailed them a couple of years ago and asked them.

Farther

Has anybody switched from the motorcycle specifric synthetics like Mobil 1 or Amzol to the car/truck synthetic versions and what was your experience?  I currently have the Amzol motorcycle oil in my Standard after running the Mobil 1 motorcycle oil.  I noticed no difference.  I can get the Rotella from a friend who is the Shell jobber (wholesaler) in my rural area.  No retailers carry the Rotella synthitic without the energy saver stuff.
Thanks,
~Farther

fudgie

Quote from: Farther on Sat 16, Jan 2010, 12:24:53
Has anybody switched from the motorcycle specifric synthetics like Mobil 1 or Amzol to the car/truck synthetic versions and what was your experience?  I currently have the Amzol motorcycle oil in my Standard after running the Mobil 1 motorcycle oil.  I noticed no difference.  I can get the Rotella from a friend who is the Shell jobber (wholesaler) in my rural area.  No retailers carry the Rotella synthitic without the energy saver stuff.

I used the Valvoline MC oil before. I then went to Mobil 1 and now the Shell. No problems. I'll stay with the Shell. I usually change oil before and after a big trip anyway.
My HD bud uses oil that he puts in work dump trucks in his E-glide. Sometimes he even puts the used oil in his bike. No problems.


Now you're in the world of the wolves...
And we welcome all you sheep...

VRCC-#7196
VRCCDS-#0175
DTR
PGR

Thunderbolt

Don't know why, but it sure started to stink.  I dumped it back out and changed to Mobil 1 4T motorcycle oil. 

sheets

 . . . been using the Rotella synthetic for a few years now.
No hits. No runs. No errors.
Works for me.  Yrmv, sheets

X Ring

Sandman's engine got noisy when I put Rotella T synthetic at the last oil change.  Previously I've been using Mobil 1 MT 10W40; however, with it at $10/qt my next oil change will me Mobil 1 15-50.

Marty
People are more passionately opposed to wearing fur than leather because it's safer to harass rich women than bikers.           

Tropic traveler

#24
HMMMM. I was unaware until I read this post that other folks have experienced an oil smell when using Rotella 5W40 synthetic as well.  ???
I switched to Rotella 5W40 syn at 60,000 miles. All Honda GN4 10W40 dino up until 60K. I just chalked up the oil smell to the fact that my Valk is high mile, approaching 100K now.  HMMMM again!

I switched Kim's Valk to Rotella 5W40 at 14K. 21K on it now with no leaks or smell.

Anyways, I too noticed a slight improvement in shifting ease but no decrease in noise with Rotella 5W40. No leaks of any sort other than the obligitory shift shaft seal at 90K.  :roll:

Terry, did you notice "the smell" more at cold start up than any other time??  

Anywhoo, I change at 4K more because of the filter than anything else. The Rotella 5W40 synthetic is a bargain at $19 per gallon and always available at the local WallyMart.  :cooldude:


'13 F6B black-the real new Valkyrie Tourer
'13 F6B red for Kim
'97 Valkyrie Tourer r&w, OLDFRT's ride now!
'98 Valkyrie Tourer burgundy & cream traded for Kim's F6B
'05 SS 750 traded for Kim's F6B
'99 Valkyrie black & silver Tourer, traded in on my F6B
'05 Triumph R3 gone but not forgotten!

Tundra

If you can't be a good example: be a WARNING!!

Thunderbolt

I had been using the Mobil 1 Red Cap and ran out of it and tried the Rotella just that one time.  I noticed when I was in Advance/discount auto the other day that Valvoline was selling a wet clutch compatible oil, I might try it next time.  The Mobil 1 4T is pretty expensive, even though I usually don't change until 5000 miles or so.

98valk

I use Amsoil 10w30/30 HD diesel oil.  Extremely smooth shifting oil. Have used most others incl rotella T.
1998 Std/Tourer, 2007 DR200SE, 1981 CB900C  10speed
1973 Duster 340 4-speed rare A/C, 2001 F250 4x4 7.3L, 6sp

"Our Constitution was made only for a Moral and Religious people. It is wholly inadequate to the goverment of any other."
John Adams 10/11/1798

PharmBoy

I just can't resist!  Use whatever you think best.  It is your motorcycle.  I do not propose to chance anyone's mind on the oil they use.  This is only my experiences with the two bikes I now own.  I bought the first gallon of Mobil 1 Turbo-diesel 5-40 that I ever saw and now have it in both bikes.  It seems to run quieter and shift easier, but that may just be my interpretation.  Like the man said, "Yo pays yo money and yo takes yo pick".....JTL  ;D ;D ;D
A politician is a fellow who will lay down your life for his country. ~Texas Guinan
4th Infantry Tet Vet
99 Interstate
97 Bumble Bee
97 Red & White

Tropic traveler

Quote from: Thunderbolt on Sat 16, Jan 2010, 19:45:20
I had been using the Mobil 1 Red Cap and ran out of it and tried the Rotella just that one time.  I noticed when I was in Advance/discount auto the other day that Valvoline was selling a wet clutch compatible oil, I might try it next time.  The Mobil 1 4T is pretty expensive, even though I usually don't change until 5000 miles or so.
That's when I smell it also, at start-up. I wonder why that is.  ???
Anyways, it won't stop me from using the Rotella 5W40. I liked the Rotella 15W40 when I had my PowerStroke Ford & had heard good things about Rotella products from my fleet customers over the years. :cooldude:
I agree about the Mobil 1 being expensive!   :o  That's what I used in my R3 also.


 
'13 F6B black-the real new Valkyrie Tourer
'13 F6B red for Kim
'97 Valkyrie Tourer r&w, OLDFRT's ride now!
'98 Valkyrie Tourer burgundy & cream traded for Kim's F6B
'05 SS 750 traded for Kim's F6B
'99 Valkyrie black & silver Tourer, traded in on my F6B
'05 Triumph R3 gone but not forgotten!

X Ring

I noticed a smell starting up 1st time of the day since I switched to Rotella T but I couldn't find anything so I thought it was my imagination.  I'll agree Mobil 1 M/C specific oils are expensive, $10/qt, that's why I bought a gallon jug of Mobil 1 15W50 at Wally World for $22. 

Marty
People are more passionately opposed to wearing fur than leather because it's safer to harass rich women than bikers.           

Mildew

I've always used the 5 40 rotella in mine along with the supertech filter. The longer filter. I think its the 3717. No problems.
Live, Not Just Exist

Rio Wil

I switched to Rotella  5-40 after my clutch began slipping after a diet of 20-50 M1 for 90K miles. After 2K miles the slipping was gone, I can only presume the thinner weight oil flushed the clutch plates out.  The slipping was detected while acceleration full throttle in 4th gear at 4000 rpm and above.  I did a little test today, after 10K miles of Rotella, and still no slippage. The test was 4th gear, max throttle starting at 4k rpm....quickly snap in the clutch lever and release.  The engine rpm jumps to 6000-6500 and then quickly drops down to 4500 or so as the clutch bites again.   

valkmc

I started w/Honda's 1/2 regular 1/2 syn and used it until 20,000. Since then I have ran Rottela and the bike now has 68,000. No problems, no leaks.
2013 Black and Red F6B (Gone)
2016 1800 Gold Wing (Gone)
1997 Valkyrie Tourer
2018 Gold Wing Non Tour

98valk

Quote from: Farther on Sat 16, Jan 2010, 12:24:53
Has anybody switched from the motorcycle specifric synthetics like Mobil 1 or Amzol to the car/truck synthetic versions and what was your experience?  I currently have the Amzol motorcycle oil in my Standard after running the Mobil 1 motorcycle oil.  I noticed no difference.  I can get the Rotella from a friend who is the Shell jobber (wholesaler) in my rural area.  No retailers carry the Rotella synthitic without the energy saver stuff.

the Amsoil 10w40 and 20w50 auto oil has always been M/C rated and is still stated on the bottles last I looked. For marketing reasons, which did greatly increased their sales they put the same oil in M/C specific bottles.
Only until a few yrs ago did they start making a M/C specific oil which is on paper better than the org.
1998 Std/Tourer, 2007 DR200SE, 1981 CB900C  10speed
1973 Duster 340 4-speed rare A/C, 2001 F250 4x4 7.3L, 6sp

"Our Constitution was made only for a Moral and Religious people. It is wholly inadequate to the goverment of any other."
John Adams 10/11/1798

valkyriemc

Veteran USN '70-'76