SOLVED- complete loss of power.....SOLVED

[Oklahoma_Valk]

Fellas. I was riding down the highway and everything shut off. Lights, engine, radio, switches, everything is conpletely gone. I have checked all fuses and all battery cable connections. They r fine. Only thing i can figure is maybe the ignition?....please help.

[Chrisj CMA]

Fellas. I was riding down the highway and everything shut off. Lights, engine, radio, switches, everything is conpletely gone. I have checked all fuses and all battery cable connections. They r fine. Only thing i can figure is maybe the ignition?....please help.

What were you riding?

[Oklahoma_Valk]

1997 valk standard.

[F6MoRider]

Kill switch short?  Should have has juice in the battery unless charging system failed and the battery was drained.  I'd start trouble shooting at the kill switch and check the key switch, too.

[Oklahoma_Valk]

Battery has lots of juice still. We're currently stranded on the highway. Help is on the way though. No idea what has caused this it must be electrical.

[old2soon]

THAT is exactly what happened to my 99 I/S.   When i got it back to the house found out the altenator failed taking the battery with it.   This was of course after checking everythibg else.   Good luck and let us know what you find out please.   RIDE SAFE.

[Oklahoma_Valk]

Ya when i turn the key not a single light or anything come on. No clicks. Nothing. It was an abrupt shutdown too. Just an immediate "off" like i had hit the kill switch. But if it were killswitch failure, id have though the lights would at least stay on. Im leaning toward the key switch. No real idea though. Thanks for replies. Please continue replying

[Oklahoma_Valk]

SOLVED. Under the right side panel is a _______. I call it a ___________ because I dont know what it is....it just decided to take a $#!t.

It was electrical. Below are pics of the meltdown. what is this thing called? I wired a shark audio system into the "accessory" fuse on the small fuse box about 2 months ago. Maybe that was the cause?

We were able to scratch around with the pocket knife and free up the electrical short. And we made it home!! I guess if things are going to break, they're going to break while out on the road....not in the garage. This was the first time the valk has flat out took a $#!t, and I had to call for help. I hope it's the last. 

[Chrisj CMA]

Yeah, the old starting solenoid.  Pays to look at that thing every once in awhile, clean it and lube it with dilactic grease.  a little corrosion and then shotty connection, then too much heat.  There are several posts about this and the parts you need.....you are not the first

[9Ball]

yep, definitely an annual maintenance item to clean and add some dielectric grease....

[whitestroke]

Thanks Black Dog


'Starter Relay Problem...

http://www.rattlebars.com/mtz/solenoid.html

Shows a good picture, and has some good info.

[old2soon]

And that right thar is part/most of the reason this board is here.  And why a lot of us look at a problem BEFORE even considering a dealer.  Glad you located the problem.  Take a wild a$$ed guess what i'll be checkin up on when i put her on the lift??  RIDE SAFE.

[biguglyman]

I feel your pain. Part is less than $20 on ebay and it's a less than one hour repair. I suggest doing rattlebars wiring mod also to decrease your chances of future problems.

[Michvalk]

Did you use a relay to run your audio system? If not, that's where your power draw was from to fry that connector. There are a number of threads on wiring relays for audio, horns, ect. Check them out!

[Oklahoma_Valk]

Thanks to everyone for all of your replys. This board is a priceless wealth of information.

Michvalk, I did not use a relay to run my audio system. I wired it into an accessory fuse. I think ChrisJCMA hit it right on the head. Corroded connections = heat. Heat = electrical failure. I've unplugged the radio system for now. until I can wire it in with a relay.

-Okie

[Attic Rat]

Oklahoma Valk I have a spare wiring harness with the plugs that you need to repair your problem

[PhredValk]

Rather than run everything on relays, I stuck a fuse panel on a hunk of 1/8 plywood wired to the battery thru a 30 amp fuse and a relay triggered by a connector that is only on with the key (in either position). Now I connect things to the fuse panel, like cig lighter, voltmeter, power points for GPS and Ipod. 3x5" and it fits nicely in the space behind the battery under the seat.
Fred.

[rayvin57]

Thanks to everyone for all of your replys. This board is a priceless wealth of information.

Michvalk, I did not use a relay to run my audio system. I wired it into an accessory fuse. I think ChrisJCMA hit it right on the head. Corroded connections = heat. Heat = electrical failure. I've unplugged the radio system for now. until I can wire it in with a relay.

-Okie

I'm with Michvalk on this one--even if a dirty connector contributed to the problem, you should use relays to attach accessories with that much draw.

[john]

that happened to me ... mmmm   six years ago
at that time i scraped and cut away all the burnt and disfigured plastic
on the relay and harness socket...
i cleaned  (wire brush and emory cloth) every wire conection i could get to under said side cover ... reconect with the white grease
no problemo since ... looks good every time i check it
no parts bought no money spent
same with battery cables ... remove ... clean and replace with the white grease
(dilectric ?)    ... good stuff
lightblubs ...every wire i pull apart ...conection pulled off  ... everything gets cleaned and the white grease

[Bone]

clean and replace with the white grease (dilectric ?)

White Lithium Grease helps protect against rust, is water-repellant and is non-conductive if that is what you used.