Doing ECT mod--a couple of questions...

[rayvin57]

Doing the ECT mod, got my soldering iron warmed up in the garage and I'm ready.  Read the Airetime's instructions in Shoptalk, and I plan on using the pot with the resistor method.  I assume I still have to use the diode--if so, do I solder that to the center terminal on the pot (along with the resistor) and the cathode end to a wire that's spliced into the green/red wire off the red connector?  Or do I skip the diode if I'm using the pot?  I read and reread the instructions but I'd rather hear it from someone who did the pot.
Thanks.
Vin

[Momz]

Valkyries (includeing the I/S's) were designed to run on 89 octane. If you do the ECT mod without a 4 0r 6 dgree trigger wheel, recommend the "simple" ECT mod. There is no need o complicate the system.

Use the highest wattage rated resistor and diode as they will better withstand the harsh vibration and temperature/humidity extremes that are encountered while motorcycling.

I've done this to two of my Valks and have never experienced any pinging. Never use bad gas and you will not experience detonation (pinging), whether you have he ECT mod or if your system is unaltered.

Remember the KISS principle

[rayvin57]

Valkyries (includeing the I/S's) were designed to run on 89 octane. If you do the ECT mod without a 4 0r 6 dgree trigger wheel, recommend the "simple" ECT mod. There is no need o complicate the system.

Use the highest wattage rated resistor and diode as they will better withstand the harsh vibration and temperature/humidity extremes that are encountered while motorcycling.

I've done this to two of my Valks and have never experienced any pinging. Never use bad gas and you will not experience detonation (pinging), whether you have he ECT mod or if your system is unaltered.

Remember the KISS principle

Thanks, momz. I'm still going with the pot spliced in, and I'm running the diode off a wire soldered to the center post of the pot, anode side toward the pot, cathode side to the wire spliced into the green/red of the red connector.  I'm going with the pot so I can turn the mod off if I like.  I'll post back with results.

[rayvin57]

Took it for a short, less than 20 mile test run, mostly at lower rpms. Noticed the idle rpm bump while in gear--closer to 200 than 300, definitely not enough to interfere with smoothness of the ride.  The power delivery of the engine seemed smoother/stronger up to just before 4k, by which time the awesome normal power of the Valk took over.  Like mentioned in the mod write-up, high speed riding didn't seem affected at all.  I have been running on 87 octane gas, but when I filled it up during the ride I went with the 89, as per Momz advice.  I didn't notice any pinging with the regular that was in there, however.  I might play around between the two grades.
All in all, seems like a worthy and low cost mod and I'm glad I took the time to do it.

[Denny47]

I may be posting something that you all already know, but, anytime you solder small electronics items, capacitors, resistors, diodes, it is a good idea to clamp the wire of the item with a pair of forceps, I guess that's what you call them, the clamping things doctors use to grip thread while doing stitches. This will prevent the heat from going into the diode,etc. and damaging it.

[valky1500]

Those circuits you are splicing diodes into are signal wires and for direction of flow only. They won't generate any heat like a power wire would as very little voltage will actually pass through those wires.

The pot isn't needed unless you like the higher revs over 4.5k RPM for long periods of time like when racing on the highway. The engine will love the added 10 degrees timing but the water temp will begin to raise after that. With 16 degrees added you will lose 1 HP for every 100RPM over 4.8k RPM as a result, if that really matters.

Yes maybe on a supercharged valk that likes high RPM's you would want to use the pot to turn off the added timing and even retard it but a stocker will be just fine in the normal and above operating RPM ranges. Many swear by that ECT mod plus an added 6 degree trigger wheel. The IS already has a 4 degree wheel.

Enjoy   

[98valk]

they are designed for 87 octane not 89, see the owners manual
all valkyries have OEM 3.5 degree TWs, the I/S is the same OEM TW. see the service manual.

using that much advance is causing denotation during acceleration. one has to check the plugs with an eye piece and look for black spots on the ceramic.

search is always your friend

[valky1500]

The engine loves the added advanced timing and it translates into better gas mileage for cruising and more torque for better starts. 

[rayvin57]

I may be posting something that you all already know, but, anytime you solder small electronics items, capacitors, resistors, diodes, it is a good idea to clamp the wire of the item with a pair of forceps, I guess that's what you call them, the clamping things doctors use to grip thread while doing stitches. This will prevent the heat from going into the diode,etc. and damaging it.

Good advice, Denny, and I do know about using heatsinks (such as forceps or hemistats) when soldering small components.  Was a sonar tech in the Navy in the early '70s.  Thanks for looking out.

[rayvin57]

Those circuits you are splicing diodes into are signal wires and for direction of flow only. They won't generate any heat like a power wire would as very little voltage will actually pass through those wires.

The pot isn't needed unless you like the higher revs over 4.5k RPM for long periods of time like when racing on the highway. The engine will love the added 10 degrees timing but the water temp will begin to raise after that. With 16 degrees added you will lose 1 HP for every 100RPM over 4.8k RPM as a result, if that really matters.

Yes maybe on a supercharged valk that likes high RPM's you would want to use the pot to turn off the added timing and even retard it but a stocker will be just fine in the normal and above operating RPM ranges. Many swear by that ECT mod plus an added 6 degree trigger wheel. The IS already has a 4 degree wheel.

Enjoy   

Denny was talking about the heat from the soldering iron, not from the components.  According to airetime's write up, I'll only be advancing the timing 5 degrees with the pot turned halfway up, so I'm not worried about overheating or loss of hp because I don't plan on going higher than halfway.  It's just nice to be able to turn it off.  It also says in the write up that the mod has no effect at revs over 3.5k, so I'm at original timing at the higher revs.  It's a win-win to me.

[rayvin57]

they are designed for 87 octane not 89, see the owners manual
all valkyries have OEM 3.5 degree TWs, the I/S is the same OEM TW. see the service manual.

using that much advance is causing denotation during acceleration. one has to check the plugs with an eye piece and look for black spots on the ceramic.

search is always your friend

How much advance are you referring to as causing predet?  Like oil preference and dark side threads, I see there is no agreement on the benefits of advancing the timing, whether by aftermarket TW or the ECT mod.  I know the Valk, at stock timings, is designed for 87 octane, but with the timing advanced I can see the sense in using at least 89 to avoid the predetonation that you speak of.  I'll keep an eye on the plug ceramics and adjust accordingly.

[rayvin57]

The engine loves the added advanced timing and it translates into better gas mileage for cruising and more torque for better starts. 

Not sure if you're being sarcastic, but if not I look forward to better cruising gas mileage, that's for sure. I certainly did like the increase in lower rpm power I felt in the couple of rides I took today, valky. 

[Momz]

Valkyries (includeing the I/S's) were designed to run on 89 octane.

My bad,.....I did fat finger that one! Valks require 87 ocane,...I stand corrected.

But I will stand by my belief that using a potentiometer is not a good idea.
Just use the best resistor and diode for durability. 

[tank_post142]

i have no detonation problems and picked up 2-3 mpg when the pot is full up.

[rayvin57]

Valkyries (includeing the I/S's) were designed to run on 89 octane.

My bad,.....I did fat finger that one! Valks require 87 ocane,...I stand corrected.

But I will stand by my belief that using a potentiometer is not a good idea.
Just use the best resistor and diode for durability. 

Did you know of someone that had the pot go bad?  I definitely agree that they tend to wear with use and age, like on audio equipment, but usually a shot or two of tuner cleaner can resolve the static.  Worse case if it fails on the road I can just turn it off and replace it when I get home.  But I agree with your basic premise that keeping things simple is the more reliable route, especially on a vehicle.  I just really like playing with knobs...