Metalflake in antifreeze

[97Valk_CT_Euless]

Since the bike has been down due to the tensioners, and I'd had that antifreeze smell issue I decided to change the upper and lower hoses while I investigated the upper hose connection at the t-stat housing. Also installed some beefier clamps. Since I'd changed the fluid just a few k ago I reused it.  When I was pouring it off I noticed what looked like superfine metal flake in the fluid. Super fine like aluminum flake in paint.  Hard to tell how much was really there but enough so you could see it shimmer in the pan when I left the last few teaspoons after pouring off to a bottle. Anyone experience this? Should I be getting a water pump?
Thanks

[R J]

If it was me, I'd strain the anti freeze into another container, use panty hose for the filter, reinstall it and keep an eye on it.   If it gets metal flaky again, then I'd do some serious checking around in de engine.

[Ricky-D]

I think that's probably some kind of radiator stop leak residue in you antifreeze.

***

[97Valk_CT_Euless]

I used Honda antifreeze. I hope you're right that it's stop leak  I didn't put it back in it (poured the clean stuff off the top) but I will watch it. Thanks all.

[Dorkman]

The cooling system doesn't have many moving parts to cause wear.  You might take a look see at the impeller in the water pump, but I haven't heard of them sloughing off metal unless it's coming apart, in which case you would be over heating and getting noise from the pump.  Presume you have been using silicate free antifreeze.  If not, the seals may go bad on the water pump, but sloughing off metal is unlikely.  Additives may also leave behind particulate.  Perhaps a good flush of the cooling system, then new coolant will clear up the problem.  If your antifreeze smell has gone away, your hose work is probably enough.

[da prez]

  hey RJ , don't the panty hose fit different then.  I use coffee filters . Paint filters work also , but coffee filters are cheaper and I re-use them  when the inlaws come over.  Some of that type of flaking is common . Make sure you have a good , clean ground to the engine and radiator. That will help  prevent electralasis and silacate drop out. (that is a sandy crud that forms in the cooling system) .

                     da prez

[97Valk_CT_Euless]

That's interesting. Come to think of it I don't remember any ground on the radiator. I'll double check that. Makes me wonder how the fan switch worked...
Thanks all

[YoungPUP]

I thought our antifreeze was supposed to be silicate free???

[R J]

hey da prez:

The gals at the house don't know we use dare pantie hose.   We use em and then throw em in da wash.    Da none da wiser.

Yeah, they are blonde's.     We used to use coffee filters but pantie hose seemed to get more crud, junk out of the liquid.

[MarkT]

After you get the problem defined and resolved, you might want to take a step to eliminate cooling system maintenance.  That is, go to Evans waterless permanent coolant.  I did that on Deerslayer and BlubyYou (1800 wing) a year or so ago, and am confidant cooling system maintenance is a thing of the past.  No liquid changes, and no corrosion is possible anymore.

[R J]

That sounds good Mark, I'll have to try that in my Chevy Trike.

[salty1]

I thought our antifreeze was supposed to be silicate free???

+1 on the silicate free! If it were my bike, I would dump what's in it and put in fresh anti-freeze. Honda automotive sells essentially the same coolant as Honda mc.

[Madmike]

Since the bike has been down due to the tensioners, and I'd had that antifreeze smell issue I decided to change the upper and lower hoses while I investigated the upper hose connection at the t-stat housing. Also installed some beefier clamps. Since I'd changed the fluid just a few k ago I reused it.  When I was pouring it off I noticed what looked like superfine metal flake in the fluid. Super fine like aluminum flake in paint.  Hard to tell how much was really there but enough so you could see it shimmer in the pan when I left the last few teaspoons after pouring off to a bottle. Anyone experience this? Should I be getting a water pump?
Thanks

........ maybe a sealant product called "Aluma-Seal" (in Canada) or something similar, dry powder that looks like flaked aluminum....     http://www.goldeagle.com/brands/alumaseal/

[97Valk_CT_Euless]

Thanks all. The coolant has so few miles on it and it's back in it now (with the "sealant" decanted off) I'm going to go with it. Next time I'm into it I'll check out the Evans. Thanks all.

[valkyriemc]

I thought our antifreeze was supposed to be silicate free???

+1 on the silicate free! If it were my bike, I would dump what's in it and put in fresh anti-freeze. Honda automotive sells essentially the same coolant as Honda mc.

+1 Yup, saved some jack myself last year, using the Honda auto vs. the M/C antifreeze, both bikes...

[gordonv]

After you get the problem defined and resolved, you might want to take a step to eliminate cooling system maintenance.  That is, go to Evans waterless permanent coolant.  I did that on Deerslayer and BlubyYou (1800 wing) a year or so ago, and am confidant cooling system maintenance is a thing of the past.  No liquid changes, and no corrosion is possible anymore.

Did you ever post about this Evans product, where you got it from, and how much it costs?

No supplier in BC, but I found a few close by in WA instead.

[97Valk_CT_Euless]

I'm going for the "It was sealant" idea until the bike otherwise informs me.  It's running great, no more antifreeze smell (though haven't been riding as much lately).  I sure appreciate all the help. 

[whitestroke]

After you get the problem defined and resolved, you might want to take a step to eliminate cooling system maintenance.  That is, go to Evans waterless permanent coolant.  I did that on Deerslayer and BlubyYou (1800 wing) a year or so ago, and am confidant cooling system maintenance is a thing of the past.  No liquid changes, and no corrosion is possible anymore.

Do our cooling systems run under pressure? 
I know on my diesel truck if you run Evans in the system it then needs to be no longer a pressurized system.  I believe you have to change out the radiator cap.  Maybe a new thread on flushing and changing to Evans. Inquiring minds want to know       

[salty1]

Valkyrie cooling systems are under pressure, particularly at operating temperatures. Don't ask how I know.