LED TURNSIGNALS

[STRAYDOGG]

Need help: i just installed LED turnsignals on my 2003 tourer from custom dynamics the rear are amber and the front are amber turn with a white ring when not being used as turnsignals they are a running light. they are called amber/white dynamic ringz. i also have a LED tail light from Radiantz. i installed a electronic dot flasher but my turnsignals still all blink when they are engaged left or right. the running lights work good with the turnsignals off. do i need the diode kit to fix this or do i have other problems? thank you for help.

[Jess from VA]

Once spent weeks trying to get LED signals to work right: on battery, at idle, and running the symptoms were all different.  I hate them (as signals, and will never do it again!!)

FWIW, if you have your electronic HD flasher or load equalizers installed correctly..... it is almost always a ground issue.... somewhere.

[saddlesore]

LED's use less power so you need load equalizers.  I put LED's on front and  back.  I never got the rear flashers working properly.  I went back to originals.  I felt they were brighter anyway.
LED's also only illuminate straight out unlike the incandescent.
I have the same tail light from radianz you have and really like that.
IMO LED signals are overrated.

[Willow]

Sounds like a problem I had that turned out to be a pinched wire (unintentional ground).  If you didn't remove the rear turn signal assembly that's probably not your issue.

[scoot]

I had a similar problem with my 2BSeen lights. In the end it was a problem with my inexpensive (cheap) trailer wire harness. Replaced the trailer wire harness with a good (get what you pay for) harness, and all was well.

[John Schmidt]

Get the diode kit from Kuryakyn, $8 investment. When you install LED turns front or rear....or both, you usually need to separate the left/right turn wiring. With the OEM setup, you have the same impulse running through the amber indicator light on the headlight regardless of which turn signal you hit. With LEDs it doesn't seem to differentiate due to cross feed from one side to the other, causing everything to flash when it shouldn't. This kit isolates the two sides, an easy install in the headlight bucket. Instructions are included and takes just a few minutes to do. Makes all your turns and run lights work the way they're supposed to.

http://www.kuryakyn.com/Products/719/Diode-Kit

[Valkpilot]

Get the diode kit from Kuryakyn, $8 investment. When you install LED turns front or rear....or both, you usually need to separate the left/right turn wiring. With the OEM setup, you have the same impulse running through the amber indicator light on the headlight regardless of which turn signal you hit. With LEDs it doesn't seem to differentiate due to cross feed from one side to the other, causing everything to flash when it shouldn't. This kit isolates the two sides, an easy install in the headlight bucket. Instructions are included and takes just a few minutes to do. Makes all your turns and run lights work the way they're supposed to.

http://www.kuryakyn.com/Products/719/Diode-Kit

+1

[STRAYDOGG]

I finally bought the Kuryakyn Diode kit off of Ebay (free shipping) that solved my problem. Very easy install all you need is a electric soldering gun. Now my lights work great. Thanks to everyone for the help.

[John Schmidt]

Yup, the old guys strike again! We ain't fast, but are experienced.    I'm glad it worked out for you, as you found out it's a real simple fix. Of all the engineering that Honda puts into their bikes, I'll never understand why they continue to insist on having one control for both turns. Oh well, don't recall getting any requests from them for my opinion. 

[BigBad1]

Get the diode kit from Kuryakyn, $8 investment. When you install LED turns front or rear....or both, you usually need to separate the left/right turn wiring. With the OEM setup, you have the same impulse running through the amber indicator light on the headlight regardless of which turn signal you hit. With LEDs it doesn't seem to differentiate due to cross feed from one side to the other, causing everything to flash when it shouldn't. This kit isolates the two sides, an easy install in the headlight bucket. Instructions are included and takes just a few minutes to do. Makes all your turns and run lights work the way they're supposed to.

http://www.kuryakyn.com/Products/719/Diode-Kit

+1 Custom Dynamics also has the diode/isolator. If you are installing it on a standard or tourer, you only have one indicator for both signals. This will result in cross feeding through the indicator light. I too have the LED's from Custom Dynamics and love them. Mine are installed on a Interstate (with separate turn signal indicators) so I did not need the isolator.

[alph]

get these resistors;

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Load-Resistor-Fix-LED-Bulb-Fast-Flash-Turn-Signal-Blink-/281030383474?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item416eb75772&vxp=mtr

put one end to ground, one end to the wire that gives you the "flash" (i'll post what color it should be, but my book is in the shed), then you'll have this;

LED's on my Honda Valkyrie

[Imohtep]

Diodepack +1 

[MarkT]

I installed a Kisan signal minder (digital flasher unit) a dozen years ago, and it provides all the correction necessary for the changed load, as I've installed several different types of turn signals since with no problems.  Presently LED signals, have been for years.  Bonus, you select the timeout interval on the flasher and at the end of that time they stop flashing.  Unless you've connected the stop-counter line to the brake line, in which case the counter pauses while you hold the brakes on.

[Colin]

I bought a cheap LED & incandescent 2 wire flasher unit. Made up a converter lead and swapped out the stock 3 connector one. Easy enough to do and cost me about $6 IIRC but it was 3 years ago and it has worked perfectly ever since.

[Bambam650]

Hey Colin, can you described in more detail how to make a two wire electronic flasher work with the converter lead.  I bought a two wire universal flasher from superbrightleds and am having trouble getting it to work.  I'm sure it has something to do with the third wire.  Thanks

[R J]

Dat's funny all the solutions.       I just moved the existing light, well the wire got moved, the light staid in the same place.

I just added a very small regular bulb and light socket up under the battery box, actually inside of the tool holder for each rear light.      Then put the LED in the turn signal socket.    It flashes like it is supposed to, nice and regular not 150 MPH hour.    All your resistor does is add more draw on the circuit.

When they Triked out MGM they took it all out, so, I'm leaving the HD turn lights in the box alone, and added Radianz 128 bulb fixtures in the VTX lights.    I'll tell ya one thing, if you get hit from the rear at a stop light, and they say they didn't see you, they need their license pulled until they know how to drive.    Dem bass turds shore do light up the area around the back end of the big boy.

[saddlesore]

Dat's funny all the solutions.       I just moved the existing light, well the wire got moved, the light staid in the same place.

I just added a very small regular bulb and light socket up under the battery box, actually inside of the tool holder for each rear light.      Then put the LED in the turn signal socket.    It flashes like it is supposed to, nice and regular not 150 MPH hour.    All your resistor does is add more draw on the circuit.

When they Triked out MGM they took it all out, so, I'm leaving the HD turn lights in the box alone, and added Radianz 128 bulb fixtures in the VTX lights.    I'll tell ya one thing, if you get hit from the rear at a stop light, and they say they didn't see you, they need their license pulled until they know how to drive.    Dem bass turds shore do light up the area around the back end of the big boy.

Dang, that's a great solution!!  So simple.  I may have to give LEDs another chance.    

[Bambam650]

That's for sure.  I just added the Radianz tail light as part of my lighting upgrade and boy what a difference.  However, I still would like to know how to make a two wire electronic  flasher work.

[Colin]

Hey Colin, can you described in more detail how to make a two wire electronic flasher work with the converter lead.  I bought a two wire universal flasher from superbrightleds and am having trouble getting it to work.  I'm sure it has something to do with the third wire.  Thanks

From memory, it was some while ago I am afraid, I just made up a little adapter lead that connected the Green and Grey wires to the 2 pole flasher and left the black one disconnected. I will take a look later and confirm.

[Bambam650]

Thanks much.  There are three wires going into the stock flasher; a black, green, and gray.  If I could determine which one of these is the constant power in, and which one (or ones) is the signal out (or if one is a ground) then I think I could figure this out.

[BobB]

I had the same issue this spring when converting to LED lights just about everywhere.
I reverted to using regular 1056 incandescent bulbs in the rear turn signals to fix it.  
They are only in use when the turn signals are operating so not much additional power is used.
The extra load resolves the left/right cross talk issue.

I hope you used an flasher relay designed for LEDs.  I puchased a common 3 prong one and cobbled the OEM flasher relay up to be an adapter for the new relay.

[Colin]

Sorry for the delay coming back about this.

If you check the wiring diagram you find that there are 3 wires going to the flasher unit.

Green - ground
Grey - to switch and then on to bulbs
Black - to fuse box positive

So you need the black and the grey for a 2 wire flasher unit.