highway pegs

[groundpounder01]

 Can anyone tell me, or have pics of some pegs that wont spin when you put your feet on them. I have purchased several sets that mount on the engine gaurds, but they all seem to turn when you add weight to them. Granted I am 6'1" and weigh about 300lbs, so I might be a touch on the heavy side. I have a bad right knee and can't ride with my leg on the factory pegs for long.

[Fritz The Cat]

I'm about half your weight and have the same problem. No matter how much I tighten mine, they still move out of place. Pisses me off, really.

[amazngrace]

If the clamp is moving on the engine guard, try putting some thin rubber between the two if you have the space. That should add enough friction to stop the movement.

...ED

[PhredValk]

First, use 1" clamps. I use two sets of pegs, and even with the 1" clamps one of each set turned with weight. I cut a 1"x1.5" strip of 8 or 12 gauge sheet steel as a shim and I can almost stand on them now. I tried rubber, 2 sided tape, sandpaper, duct tape; nothing worked other than steel on steel.
Fred.

[MarkT]

I've used Kuryakyn clamps with their highway pegs for 15 years now and they have never moved once tightened.  Maybe your clamps aren't heavy-duty enough.  I'm no lightweight.  The crash bars have an elliptical cross section on the curved part - while the clamps are basically round in the clamping form.  Seems once they are seriously tightened the elliptical form should help stop them from moving.  IIRC - you go up one size to buy clamps for the curved part.  I've changed the model of my clamp arms once to move their location some - I have pics of the old ones - I can shoot the new ones if you need to see them.  Here's the old ones - neither of them moved once clamped.



OK, I took a cpl minutes and shot the current pegs.  None of these move.  Note the arms are positioned lft-fwd, rt-back to compensate for the cylinder stagger.

[old2soon]

I've got Kurys on my I/S and once i got them where i wanted them and CRANKED on tightening them up they HAVE NOT moved. And i've been known to push myself back into the seat using the road pegs. And i'm a slim trim 230 or so.  6' 2" 32" inseam and i stay comfortable on my gal. If shimming doesn't work maybe where the bolt tightens the clamp down increase the gap-remove a little bit of the material there. BUT try shimming them out first. Save the machining fer the last. RIDE SAFE.

[Chiefy]

Photos 2 and 3 in MarT's post are Kuryackn Longhorns.  That's what I used.  At first they seemed good and tight, but moved on me.  I was able to crank down more, and they haven't moved since.

[Karen]

Ditto thumbs up on the Kurys on the engine guard, have never moved, and I've been known to push 290 in the past.

[dreamchaser]

I have used a small piece of steel banding inside clamps that have been over tightened and that works great.  Just be carefull you don't change their shape when you tighten them, as that's usually how they "learn" to slip.

[PhredValk]

I've dumped the bike twice, not moving, just had to brake in an aquord spot. Both times my right peg got moved. Unbolt, move, recrank, solid like new.
Steel on steel.
Fred.

[97Valk_CT_Euless]

An alternative to steel shims is splitting copper pipe couplings.  Get the couplings for 1" copper at Home Depot, Lowes or wherever and split them longways with a hacksaw.  If they're too wide for the clamps, (check before splitting) then cut them off before you split, it's easier to cut off.
I like the copper because it's softer than the steel and chrome and will deform before it destroys the finish underneath, in case you ever want to move/remove the clamps.  Also, burrs will flatten instead of scratch.

[Pappy!]

Using Copper is a good idea!

[cookiedough]

My clamps do not move on the bike, my issue is my what I believe to be show chrome (looks like standard cobra floorboards) flat pads where you put your feet on move down when pressed harder on them.  I have tried cranking VERY tight and no luck, the pads where you put your feet keep moving down with moderate pressure on them, so just have to remind myself they are there for ONLY resting your feet on is all. 

[BradValk48237]

Another simple idea is to cut a piece out of a Beer can (Pop is just a waste of time and calories) ....you do need something refreshing while working on it and helps to calm down those frustrating moments....
Might take several cans till you find just the right piece.....

I've used that trick on alot of compression type things...... always seems to work

And i seem to have alot of them layin' around for some reason. ... always handy!

B

[Oklahoma_Valk]

If you can invest in a $120 MIG welder from Tractor Supply, you can just weld those babies to the engine guard.

Just kidding, dont do that.

[Brian]

I have the same style kury's that Mark T has in his pictures 2 & 3. The engine guard tubular steel is  not exactly round in the u-bends. Once I settled on the exact position of the pegs I broke out the can of elbow grease and really tightend them down. No issues yet. Now there maybe slight differences in the diameter of the tubular steel used or chroming thickness applied by the parts suppliers to Honda.