Any reports of Dan-Marc Multi Fuel Shut Off Valve failure?

[Valkorado]

In my quest to prevent the likelihood of hydrolock, I am going to try the Dan-Mark shutoff valve mod.  Are there any reports of this valve crapping out and stranding anyone?  Has anyone ever had or heard of hydrolock after installing a Dan-Marc?

[Ricky-D]

There are reports all over this forum regarding that valve.

Not necessarily specific to your question but a simple search will reveal many posts.

Some good and some bad.

***

[BigMac (SoCal)]

I've had mine for a couple of years with no problems. I think it's one of the best thing I have done. It's a pretty simple valve so I would say it's dependable. I believe it works like an electromagnet so as long as there is power it would stay open. I also replaced the petcock with a Pingle manual.

Dave

[Chiefy]

In my quest to prevent the likelihood of hydrolock, I am going to try the Dan-Mark shutoff valve mod.  Are there any reports of this valve crapping out and stranding anyone?  Has anyone ever had or heard of hydrolock after installing a Dan-Marc?

Haven't done it.  If I were to install one, I would make sure I carried a short tube long enough, and the correct diameter to install in place of the valve should it conk out.  Electrical stuff breaks, like anything else.

[R J]

I've had the Dan Marc electric valve and a Pingle on MGM for like 3 or 4 years.  NO problems with the setup.

I didn't raise the reserve screen so, when you switch to reserve you better have a station in sight.

[MarkT]

Had it for several years.  Last year, changed the install so it is now also an anti-hijack device.  Just turn the key off or hit the kill switch, and the perp grabbing your bike will run out of gas when he gets a mile away.  No problems with the valve.  And I don't bother to turn the petcock off anymore.  Maybe no cycling of the petcock will make it last longer before failure. http://www.horseapple.com/Valkyrie/Tech_Tips/Fuel_Shutoff/fuel_shutoff.html

[3W-lonerider]

My dan mark has been in my bike for 100,000 miles. no problems at all. we have equipment at work that is 20 years old. still running the original electric shutoff valves. only problems weve ever had with an electric shutoff valve is when running it for L.P. seems over a period of time with the extreme temps in an L.P. system the rubber tips on the plungers go bad.  as far as gas or diesel no problems.

[John Schmidt]

Had mine for about 8 yrs. along with a manual Pingel, on which I extended the pickup tube to match the height of the OEM petcock. When I travel I always carry a spare DanMarc along with a few other small items, but never a problem so far. I have it wired to shut off with the key. It's wired into an extra fuse panel under the right side cover which is powered by the key so every thing I've added on to the bike goes off when I shut down.

[salty1]

In my quest to prevent the likelihood of hydrolock, I am going to try the Dan-Mark shutoff valve mod.  Are there any reports of this valve crapping out and stranding anyone?  Has anyone ever had or heard of hydrolock after installing a Dan-Marc?

Haven't done it.  If I were to install one, I would make sure I carried a short tube long enough, and the correct diameter to install in place of the valve should it conk out.  Electrical stuff breaks, like anything else.

+1 I carry a new OEM gas tube just in case. I have Dan Marc's on both my Valks. I think their great. Only thing I've noticed on both bikes that the miles to reserve has decreased about 160 to 135 miles. I replaced the petcock on both too with OEM product. Some how one or both of these changes has decreased my miles to reserve. Make sure everything goes downhill.

[MarkT]

Make sure everything goes downhill.

Makes no difference whatever.  It's all below the gas level in the tank above it.  So the gas will move without regard to it's direction.  Could even go vertical, up.  Think of a sink trap or the trap in a toilet if you doubt this. It will even push past an air bubble - which won't stop it because there is no surface tension with gasoline or capillary action for very small tubes like with water - the air bubble won't block the flow.

[F6BANGER]

+1 I carry a new OEM gas tube just in case. I have Dan Marc's on both my Valks. I think their great. Only thing I've noticed on both bikes that the miles to reserve has decreased about 160 to 135 miles. I replaced the petcock on both too with OEM product. Some how one or both of these changes has decreased my miles to reserve. Make sure everything goes downhill.

So then when you go on reserve you can go 25 miles further than normal, correct?

[salty1]

+1 I carry a new OEM gas tube just in case. I have Dan Marc's on both my Valks. I think their great. Only thing I've noticed on both bikes that the miles to reserve has decreased about 160 to 135 miles. I replaced the petcock on both too with OEM product. Some how one or both of these changes has decreased my miles to reserve. Make sure everything goes downhill.

So then when you go on reserve you can go 25 miles further than normal, correct?

When I hit reserve and fill the tank shortly there after it usually takes less than 4 gallons. So for my bike, I would have about another 40 miles before I would be getting real nervous.    I'm not going to find out either.  So the combination of the Dan Marc and a new OEM petcock, my reserve comes into play earlier than in the past. However, subsequent fills show I still have at least a gallon or more left in the tank.

[Ricky-D]

I don't recall anyone posting results of a test that determines exactly how much gas in the tank is not able to be consumed when the tank is "empty".

I feel sure that there will always be a little gas that can not be accessed from an empty gas tank.

Maybe it's only a few drops or maybe even a cupful, I don't know,,, but using a method of computation where the amount of gas introduced is the main factor in determining remaining miles available can be error prone and a heartbreak out on the open road.

Best to test by carrying a spare bit of gas in a can to perform a test and use the real world result to base the prediction.

***

[Chattanooga Mark]

I  followed MarkT's excellent instructions about a year ago to install a Dan Marc fuel valve on my Interstate. I thank you MarkT and I would do the same mod again if I had another Valkyrie.

All the best,

Mark

[Brian]

So no one here had any problems with the valve failing the other way where it doesn't shut off completely other than on LP? Now that ethanol is added to the gas will this not help to attact the rubber seal, that is if the seal is a rubber product.

Our Honda dealer here is seeing a lot of carb issues coming in because of ethanol. They are actually recommending Marvel Mystery Oil be added to your gas. And suggesting that this gas not sit longer then 30 days if untreated.

[salty1]

So no one here had any problems with the valve failing the other way where it doesn't shut off completely other than on LP? Now that ethanol is added to the gas will this not help to attact the rubber seal, that is if the seal is a rubber product.

Our Honda dealer here is seeing a lot of carb issues coming in because of ethanol. They are actually recommending Marvel Mystery Oil be added to your gas. And suggesting that this gas not sit longer then 30 days if untreated.

I agree with the MMO and Seafoam additives. I'm not aware of any Dan Marc failures.

[Valkorado]

Thanks for the feedback.  Looks like the Dan Marc is the way to go for me, wish I could afford the belly tank.  We have ethanol free premium here, but  I will be travelling with a can o' the foam from now on.

[quexpress]

Had it for several years.  Last year, changed the install so it is now also an anti-hijack device.  Just turn the key off or hit the kill switch, and the perp grabbing your bike will run out of gas when he gets a mile away.

Another great idea Mark!
The next time I'm tinkering in that area on my Valk, I will most probably clone your kill switch idea.
Thank you!

[BonS]

Had it for several years.  Last year, changed the install so it is now also an anti-hijack device.  Just turn the key off or hit the kill switch, and the perp grabbing your bike will run out of gas when he gets a mile away.

Another great idea Mark!
The next time I'm tinkering in that area on my Valk, I will most probably clone your kill switch idea.
Thank you!

This diagram may help with Mark's anti-theft design:

[MarkT]

Had it for several years.  Last year, changed the install so it is now also an anti-hijack device.  Just turn the key off or hit the kill switch, and the perp grabbing your bike will run out of gas when he gets a mile away.

Another great idea Mark!
The next time I'm tinkering in that area on my Valk, I will most probably clone your kill switch idea.
Thank you!

This diagram may help with Mark's anti-theft design:

Thx for making the diagram, BonS.
On the diagram, get the 12v switched power from the kill switch output wire (Bl/W wire on the 9-pin Bl mini connector in the headlight - same wire at Bl/W to the coils, also at Bl/W at Pin4 of the ICM).  So you can shut down the fuel delivery with either key off or the kill switch.  BTW - if you are short on parts - there's no reason you couldn't use the LED as the D1 diode in the diagram. Then you will need one less diode (the LED is a diode), and wouldn't need the resistor that the LED will otherwise require (not diagrammed - I didn't, not short on parts) Note - LED light fixtures are always bundled with the needed resistors, inside. I keep LED's (and diodes and resistors) in stock, separately, as well.  Actually I positioned my LED so it's only visible in a reflection, when it's on.  Of course I have hundreds of LED's already so I used a different color "step light" - purple.

[BonS]

Thx for making the diagram, BonS.
On the diagram, get the 12v switched power from the kill switch output wire (Bl/W wire on the 9-pin Bl mini connector in the headlight - same wire at Bl/W to the coils, also at Bl/W at Pin4 of the ICM).  So you can shut down the fuel delivery with either key off or the kill switch.  BTW - if you are short on parts - there's no reason you couldn't use the LED as the D1 diode in the diagram. Then you will need one less diode (the LED is a diode), and wouldn't need the resistor that the LED will otherwise require (not diagrammed - I didn't, not short on parts) Note - LED light fixtures are always bundled with the needed resistors, inside. I keep LED's (and diodes and resistors) in stock, separately, as well.  Actually I positioned my LED so it's only visible in a reflection, when it's on.  Of course I have hundreds of LED's already so I used a different color "step light" - purple.

I wouldn't substitute an LED for D1. A typical Bosch type automotive relay has a coil resistance of about 75 ohms. This means that the LED would have to pass 160 milliamps to fully hold the relay latched on and that's way too much current for run-of-the-mill LEDs. (There's even a possibility that the peak reverse voltage seen across D1 would exceed the limits of most LEDs, which is 5 volts, and shorten the life of the LED or kill it outright.)

[Brian]

This thread has changed to an anti theft device installation. Just to add my two cents here, wouldn't it be simpler just to use a switch in the valve wire and hide the switch somewhere?

[MarkT]

This thread has changed to an anti theft device installation. Just to add my two cents here, wouldn't it be simpler just to use a switch in the valve wire and hide the switch somewhere?

It's an increased-utility install, for an install that's going to be done anyway.  For those adept at electrical things, this is a no-brainer.  If you're not, or are looking for simplest install, then don't do this. So you can instead, reach for your hidden toggle switch and if you find it, flip it while the guy with the gun is watching you.  As for me - when I hit the kill switch, he's not going to know there's another, hidden switch, which I didn't show him, that his failure to activate is going to stop him when he's too far away to wave his gun in my face.  Meanwhile I dialed 911 and told the cops, the perp is on my bike stopped about a mile away in the direction he went. Your thief flipped the switch you showed him, back on and he's still riding away.

[MarkT]

Thx for making the diagram, BonS.
On the diagram, get the 12v switched power from the kill switch output wire (Bl/W wire on the 9-pin Bl mini connector in the headlight - same wire at Bl/W to the coils, also at Bl/W at Pin4 of the ICM).  So you can shut down the fuel delivery with either key off or the kill switch.  BTW - if you are short on parts - there's no reason you couldn't use the LED as the D1 diode in the diagram. Then you will need one less diode (the LED is a diode), and wouldn't need the resistor that the LED will otherwise require (not diagrammed - I didn't, not short on parts) Note - LED light fixtures are always bundled with the needed resistors, inside. I keep LED's (and diodes and resistors) in stock, separately, as well.  Actually I positioned my LED so it's only visible in a reflection, when it's on.  Of course I have hundreds of LED's already so I used a different color "step light" - purple.

I wouldn't substitute an LED for D1. A typical Bosch type automotive relay has a coil resistance of about 75 ohms. This means that the LED would have to pass 160 milliamps to fully hold the relay latched on and that's way too much current for run-of-the-mill LEDs. (There's even a possibility that the peak reverse voltage seen across D1 would exceed the limits of most LEDs, which is 5 volts, and shorten the life of the LED or kill it outright.)

Hmm.  Like I said, I didn't use the LED as the diode - not short on parts.  Apparently it's not a good economy/shortcut.  Just looking to simplify.

[Rocketman]

+1 I carry a new OEM gas tube just in case. I have Dan Marc's on both my Valks. I think their great. Only thing I've noticed on both bikes that the miles to reserve has decreased about 160 to 135 miles. I replaced the petcock on both too with OEM product. Some how one or both of these changes has decreased my miles to reserve. Make sure everything goes downhill.

So then when you go on reserve you can go 25 miles further than normal, correct?

When I hit reserve and fill the tank shortly there after it usually takes less than 4 gallons. So for my bike, I would have about another 40 miles before I would be getting real nervous.    I'm not going to find out either.  So the combination of the Dan Marc and a new OEM petcock, my reserve comes into play earlier than in the past. However, subsequent fills show I still have at least a gallon or more left in the tank.

I see two ways of interpreting what you're saying:
1)  Reserve is kicking in earlier, with more fuel remaining in the tank than before the Dan Marc and petcock installations.
2)  Your fuel mileage is going down since the installations.

I think you're saying #1, but please specify.
If #1:   If you went from OEM to new OEM, I wouldn't expect the pickup tube to be significantly different.
If #2:  Unless you're severely restricting fuel flow, I can't see either of them affecting mileage.
Either way, I'm surprised at this.  Any ideas on why it's happening?

Mark

[salty1]

Mark the milage hasn't changed to speak of. The petcock was an OEM Honda replacement on both bikes. I'm thinking the pickup tube on the new petcocks could be sitting slightly higher than the old one. I really don't think gas flow is severly restricted. The only other scenario is that the Dan Marc limits flow into the carbs at 135 miles because of reduced hydrostatic pressure. However, the latter is ruled out in my mind because as soon as i go to reserve all is good again. The fuel passage on the DM valve is smaller than the OEM gas line.

I can live with this anomaly as long as the bikes run well and that they do!  

[Rocketman]

It's surprising that the pickup tube would change that much from one unit to another.  That's nearly a gallon.
I would be tempted to run a few tests for capacity (in miles) after reserve (carrying spare fuel of course). 
If you're happy with it, though, just run with it.

Mark