I Want One Of These.....

[PAVALKER]

Ultimate Gun Safe.....   Q-Line SafeGuard Shelving System

[Gavin_Sons]

Not much fire protection 

[PAVALKER]

Not much fire protection 

True..... but then I would install a sprinkler system.... 

[Jess from VA]

I do like the hide vs safe idea, but man look at the price.

http://qlinedesign.com/safeguard/

Pricing starts at $3900.

That is more than this.

http://www.patriotsafe.com/Armory-Tall-45-gun-safe-2-hour-fire-1880-2013-LEO-Special_p_497.html

Or this.
http://www.patriotsafe.com/Protector-24-gun-safe-2-hour-fire-1880-2013-LEO-Special-_p_500.html

What I would like would be an entire hidden room......... but I'd have to get a new house first.

[PAVALKER]

I do have a nice sized fire safe, similar to those pictured in the links but maybe not that large.  However, safes are like magnets.... they would attract a burglar to it because it is what it is,  sticks out like a sore thumb and isn't easy to hide.   That entertainment center idea provides stealth coverage except for the TV that might be on it, (granted no fire protection) and quick access to the contents if/when needed. 

Your idea of a hidden room would be great, for many things.  Let us know how that works for you.  My house is too small for a hidden room I think....  but I might have to work on a hidden closet to hide the fire safe, and find some stealth spots around the various rooms of the house for concealed storage.

[steve 3054]

I used to do work for a builder who put a "safe" room in every house he built...very nice ideal.  Of course these were higher end homes where space was not an issue.

[MAD6Gun]

 I dont know what kidn of Safes you guys got but mine is a Frontier. It is made of  1/4 and 3/8 plate steel. It weighs over 600 pounds empty. It has 8 locking bolts on the door. If the lock is force-able removed the lock will reset and the locking bolts would not retract. The only way a bad guys is getting into that safe is with a lot of time and a torch. A torch would ruin the contents.....

[Gavin_Sons]

I dont know what kidn of Safes you guys got but mine is a Frontier. It is made of  1/4 and 3/8 plate steel. It weighs over 600 pounds empty. It has 8 locking bolts on the door. If the lock is force-able removed the lock will reset and the locking bolts would not retract. The only way a bad guys is getting into that safe is with a lot of time and a torch. A torch would ruin the contents.....

  mine is also anchored to the concrete floor

[Jess from VA]

Also, the beauty of putting a safe in a closet, it makes it extra fireproof/resistant.  The fireman here would know more, but I have always read that (closed) closets are the last to burn, that a house fire peaks quickly and gets to closets last when the fire is past it's peak.  I tried to get a safe in a closet, but no way it would fit, and I really had no closet to spare in my old little abode.

My thoughts on safes is, if you cannot get one big/heavy enough and rated to beat any kind of raging, prying, fire ax attack, or chained to a truck and pulled out thru a window or wall, (anything short of a torch), you are better off with one or more hidey holes which must be able to withstand the type of destructive search most intruders employ.

FWIW, in most larger metro areas, the big lock and safe companies usually have a nice selection of used safes priced well below new.

[PAVALKER]

I dont know what kidn of Safes you guys got but mine is a Frontier. It is made of  1/4 and 3/8 plate steel. It weighs over 600 pounds empty. It has 8 locking bolts on the door. If the lock is force-able removed the lock will reset and the locking bolts would not retract. The only way a bad guys is getting into that safe is with a lot of time and a torch. A torch would ruin the contents.....

A locksmith can get in those quick enough.  GF's father had a Junk Yard and the garage had a big old heavy duty safe, plate steel (few layers).  He had passed away so we needed to get in it.  A locksmith with a good drill, lights and magnifying glass and it was open in about 30mins. We thought we had the combo, it was wrote down, but the Ole-Man was a sharp one and had that written combo encoded with first/last numbers reversed and added 10 to each number (according to the lock smith).


I might have to build a fake wall or closet to put my safe in, just for the "out of sight" effect.  I think I might be able to block in a place next to the furnace so it gives it the stealth look.

[Serk]

How about hidden in plain sight AND a safe?

http://bedgunsafe.com/

[Jess from VA]

I don't know if people still do it, but there's a long history of people hiding things under their bed or between the mattress and box springs..

Doesn't every crook strip the bed and mattress as a matter of course?

Some homes have a huge central cold air return.... I've wondered if you could remove the grill and put stuff in there.  Not exactly convenient, but well hidden.  Also, if a home has stairs, the area under the stairs can be walled/finished off with a hidey hole and hidden entrance panel. 

[PAVALKER]

I don't know if people still do it, but there's a long history of people hiding things under their bed or between the mattress and box springs..

Doesn't every crook strip the bed and mattress as a matter of course?

Some homes have a huge central cold air return.... I've wondered if you could remove the grill and put stuff in there.  Not exactly convenient, but well hidden.  Also, if a home has stairs, the area under the stairs can be walled/finished off with a hidey hole and hidden entrance panel. 

Disguising the box spring with a single safe in the middle would be an interesting option... but the price of those far exceeds my big fire safe and doesn't look as secure.   And that crook checking the bed anyhow thing ..... eh?

Yea... I wondered if the crooks do strip the beds and mattresses as a matter of course.... hell the Police/SWAT Teams do, even in the wrong houses some times.   

Not sure I would want to stick stuff in the real cold air return... it gets pretty nasty in there (temp changes and much dust).  But.... what an idea for a "fake" cold air return.....  get a vent/grille and cut the hole between the studs (hopefully where no plumbing or elec runs thru).   Under my basement steps I do have it blocked off, with a door on the tall end that opens into and faces inside the laundry room... and a commode I installed in there for a "Pittsburgh Potty" so I don't have to track grease  from the garage or dirt from yard upstairs... if I am working down there.

[Jess from VA]

Truth is, good outdoor lighting all night every night, no landscape hiding spots near the doors, no attractive nuisances (expensive or desirable stuff in plain view), real or fake cameras/alarms with LEDs, and all the things that make thugs pick another house than yours is as important as anything.  So are dogs.

I'm happy with my safe.  But I'd love an 8 by 10 concrete block room in the basement with no windows, and a hidden vault door, with the safe, reloading bench, and all other stuff in there except the couple  home defense tools.

I visited the very first operational missile launch control facility outside of Malmstrom AFB MT..... that seemed pretty secure.

[ValkFlyer]

Nice......but not so secret now.  I'll stick with a quality safe.

[Hooter]

I used to do work for a builder who put a "safe" room in every house he built...very nice ideal.  Of course these were higher end homes where space was not an issue.

I built mine in a closet. Used cement board, ceiling and floor with a 1 hr. fire rated door. If I can save my guns screw the house.

[Psychotic Bovine]

I plan on putting this on my safe.  It might deter someone from drilling, cutting, or torching into it.

[Varmintmist]

Why put the sticker on when you can just listen for the boom?