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Changing my Shocks?

Started by Airedale, Tue 07, May 2013, 06:46:15

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Airedale

I have purchased a set of Progressive 412 11 1/2 shocks to replace the factory shocks for the purpose of lowering my bike. I have the Clymer shop manual and they recommend taking off the exhaust as part of the procedure to change out the shocks. I may be missing something but with the seat off both the top and bottom shock bolts are easy to get to.  I am not seeing where the exhaust will come into play getting the stock shocks off and putting new ones on. Can someone tell me the reason for taking off the exhaust?

Al

9Ball

#1
not necessary to remove the mufflers....I did mine by myself with the bike resting on the sidestand.  It's easier if you have a lift to take the pressure off the bottom bolt on the final drive side (make sue you apply some anti-seize to the bolt shoulder when you reinstall).

Once you get one of the shorter shocks in place the other should go on with minimal coaxing.  I replaced the OEM shocks with same height 440s and could do one side at a time...you'll have to do yours a little differently since you're going to shorter shocks.
VRCC #6897, Joined May, 2000

1999 Standard
2007 Rocket 3
2005 VTX 1300S

old2soon

Once on my lift I removed my D/S rear tire with the exhaust system staying together. The manual calls for removing the exhaust system. And the shocks are removed for a tire change. Hope this helps.  :cooldude: RIDE SAFE.
Today is the tommorow you worried about yesterday. If at first you don't succeed screw it-save it for nite check.  1964  1968 U S Navy. Two cruises off Nam.
VRCCDS0240  2012 GL1800 Gold Wing Motor Trike conversion

hubcapsc


Don't need to mess with the exhaust. But... I suggest putting your
bike on the lift, jacking it up just enough that there's no tension or
compression on the shock, and then loosening the shock bolts. The
wheel will still just be barely touching the ground, but won't spin.

-Mike

BF

Quote from: hubcapsc on Tue 07, May 2013, 09:48:36

Don't need to mess with the exhaust. But... I suggest putting your
bike on the lift, jacking it up just enough that there's no tension or
compression on the shock, and then loosening the shock bolts. The
wheel will still just be barely touching the ground, but won't spin.

-Mike

What he said.   :cooldude:

And I might add.....do one side at a time.   ;)
I can't help about the shape I'm in
I can't sing, I ain't pretty and my legs are thin
But don't ask me what I think of you
I might not give the answer that you want me to



Airedale

I want to thank you all for your help and  advice, new shocks are installed  and my feet are flat on the ground. :cooldude:

Al

Jess from VA

Doing one side at a time is usually the best method, but somewhat difficult when going from 13" to 11.5" shocks.   ;)

Airedale

Quote from: Jess from VA on Wed 08, May 2013, 01:27:44
Doing one side at a time is usually the best method, but somewhat difficult when going from 13" to 11.5" shocks.   ;)

I used a floor jack under the rear wheel to raise the rear end up just enough so I could line up the shorter shocks with the mounting holes.

Al

Jess from VA

Quote from: Airedale on Wed 08, May 2013, 05:58:10
Quote from: Jess from VA on Wed 08, May 2013, 01:27:44
Doing one side at a time is usually the best method, but somewhat difficult when going from 13" to 11.5" shocks.   ;)

I used a floor jack under the rear wheel to raise the rear end up just enough so I could line up the shorter shocks with the mounting holes.

Al

I use a 2d jack under the wheel for working with the rear end (alone), but doing shocks I just use the big bike jack up and down.