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Broke the "buzz" bolt

Started by al v, Tue 06, Aug 2013, 12:37:45

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al v

Answered that question. You can definitely over tighten the buzz bolt. I had tightened mine, eliminating most of the buzz and was attempting to get that last little bit...

Took it out and found it was all corroded, so I cleaned it up and painted it. When I put it back on I got to a point where the resistance stopped changing but it was still tightening fairly easily. I figured at that point it was the frame squeezing down on the sleeve. I probably got another 1/2 to 3/4 turn and it popped.

Oh well... new one on the way...

Reminds of my favorite saying, "better is the enemy of good enough."

Valkpilot

#1
Quote from: al v on Tue 06, Aug 2013, 12:37:45
Answered that question. You can definitely over tighten the buzz bolt. I had tightened mine, eliminating most of the buzz and was attempting to get that last little bit...

Took it out and found it was all corroded, so I cleaned it up and painted it. When I put it back on I got to a point where the resistance stopped changing but it was still tightening fairly easily. I figured at that point it was the frame squeezing down on the sleeve. I probably got another 1/2 to 3/4 turn and it popped.

Oh well... new one on the way...

Reminds of my favorite saying, "better is the enemy of good enough."

I've never liked the "tighten the snot out of it" approach.  

I prefer to fill the buzz bolt tube with RTV silicone and also put some in the cradles the tube lies in.  Push the bolt through and tighten to spec.  

No buzz, and not permanent, as you can use a drift to drive the bolt out of its silcone cocoon if you need to.
VRCC #19757
IBA #44686
1998 Black Standard
2007 Goldwing 
 
   

Chiefy

Quote from: Valkpilot on Tue 06, Aug 2013, 16:47:12
Quote from: al v on Tue 06, Aug 2013, 12:37:45
Answered that question. You can definitely over tighten the buzz bolt. I had tightened mine, eliminating most of the buzz and was attempting to get that last little bit...

Took it out and found it was all corroded, so I cleaned it up and painted it. When I put it back on I got to a point where the resistance stopped changing but it was still tightening fairly easily. I figured at that point it was the frame squeezing down on the sleeve. I probably got another 1/2 to 3/4 turn and it popped.

Oh well... new one on the way...

Reminds of my favorite saying, "better is the enemy of good enough."

I've never like the "tighten the snot out of it" approach. 

I prefer to fill the buzz bolt tube with RTV silicone and also put some in the cradles the tube lies in.  Push the bolt through and tighten to spec. 

No buzz, and not permanent, as you can use a drift to drive the bolt out of its silcone cocoon if you need to.

:cooldude:

1998 Valk Standard 52,500 miles

Fritz The Cat

Pardon my ignorance but what's a "buzz" bolt?  ???

Chiefy


1998 Valk Standard 52,500 miles

al v

Valkpilot,
What's the best way to get the silicon in without making a huge mess? The tolerances are fairly close, I'm guessing just a light coat on the bolt itself would be enough. Or do you work it into the sleeve first?

Fritz The Cat

Jeebus, I got the buzz but never would have thought it was a loose bolt. What's the best way to get to it to tighten it?

Valkpilot

Quote from: al v on Tue 06, Aug 2013, 20:27:20
Valkpilot,
What's the best way to get the silicon in without making a huge mess? The tolerances are fairly close, I'm guessing just a light coat on the bolt itself would be enough. Or do you work it into the sleeve first?

I've always done it with the radiator tilted out of the way so I could remove the tube.  I'd squirt some in one end of the tube, put some in the cradles, lay the tube in the cradles, and then push the bolt through, which spreads the silicone through the tube.

I think your way would work fine.  You could put the nozzle of the silicone applicator in the bolt holes, splooge a bunch in, lightly coat the bolt, and push it through.
VRCC #19757
IBA #44686
1998 Black Standard
2007 Goldwing 
 
   

Skinhead

AL,

You used the one part of the proper torque procedure, tighten it until it breaks, then back it off a half turn.  You forgot the last part.

Friendsville, TN - Troy, MI

quexpress

Quote from: al v on Tue 06, Aug 2013, 12:37:45
Took it out and found it was all corroded, so I cleaned it up and painted it. When I put it back on I got to a point where the resistance stopped changing but it was still tightening fairly easily. I figured at that point it was the frame squeezing down on the sleeve.
Did you look at the size of the frame down tubes? IMHO these are way too big to be squeezed by such a small OD bolt.
I did mine quite a while ago (my memory ... oh well) and believe that I filled the tube with silicon, and also slipped a washer at end end of the buzz tube. It has not buzzed since then (10 years ago ... at least).  :)
I still have a full deck.
I just shuffle slower ...

Valkpilot

Quote from: quexpress on Wed 07, Aug 2013, 16:00:19

Did you look at the size of the frame down tubes? IMHO these are way too big to be squeezed by such a small OD bolt.


Exactly my thinking.
VRCC #19757
IBA #44686
1998 Black Standard
2007 Goldwing 
 
   

al v

Quote from: Valkpilot on Tue 06, Aug 2013, 20:52:01
I've always done it with the radiator tilted out of the way so I could remove the tube.  I'd squirt some in one end of the tube, put some in the cradles, lay the tube in the cradles, and then push the bolt through, which spreads the silicone through the tube.

I think your way would work fine.  You could put the nozzle of the silicone applicator in the bolt holes, splooge a bunch in, lightly coat the bolt, and push it through.

Squirted a bit of black RTV in each end, coated the new bolt, ran the bolt in from both directions, tightened everything down (with a much smaller ratchet this time). All is tight. The sleeve doesn't spin. Confirmed that some RTV squeezed out around the sleeve ends. Seems perfect.

Will know the actual results tomorrow.