Valve Stem Change via the "C" Clamp Method???

[Jetflyer]

I purchased the Jake Wilson 90 degree metal valve stems to elleviate any OEM failure issues. I wish I had done this simple upgrade when I put on the new Avons. Now I have to back peddle.

I am trying not to go through the chore of removing the wheels from the bike. Has anyone had good success using the C clamp method to break the tire bead, and push it aside enough to get a new stem in place?

Thanks in advance for your replies.

[hubcapsc]

I keep an 8 inch clamp and these two boards in my saddlebags...

I tested it, it works...



The boards are important... this didn't work, and even if it did, it would be bad
for any tire you wanted to keep using...



-Mike

[miscott]

Yup, it worked for me too!
In reading through through the past posts on the tech board, I also came across the ones about the solid metal 90* valve stems. Ordered some and following the pictures, I got a couple 8" C-clamps and went at it! The boards are important. Worked very well, I might add.
Be sure and use a very small dab of the BLUE loctite. It'll keep those nuts secure and still allow for easy removal of the valve stem.
 The only problem I ran into was with re-seating the bead. a little soapy water will save you a big headache. I finally put a rachet strap around the diameter of the tire and tightened it up. You'll also need an air nozzle without the core in it to allow a full blast of air into the tire, so make sure you remove the core from the valve stem too. Don't ask how long it took me to figure that out!!  

[hubcapsc]

Yup, it worked for me too!
In reading through through the past posts on the tech board, I also came across the ones about the solid metal 90* valve stems. Ordered some and following the pictures, I got a couple 8" C-clamps and went at it! The boards are important. Worked very well, I might add.
Be sure and use a very small dab of the BLUE loctite. It'll keep those nuts secure and still allow for easy removal of the valve stem.
 The only problem I ran into was with re-seating the bead. a little soapy water will save you a big headache. I finally put a rachet strap around the diameter of the tire and tightened it up. You'll also need an air nozzle without the core in it to allow a full blast of air into the tire, so make sure you remove the core from the valve stem too. Don't ask how long it took me to figure that out!!  

Once I used the ratchet strap method to seat a bead on a little yard tractor tire... when the bead popped
on, all of a sudden the strap was scary tight... be careful...

-Mike

[Thunderbolt]

In Mike's first picture if you will turn the bottom board 90 degree's so that it contacts the rim and the tire at the same time it will break only the top bead.  That's all you need to do.  I did it in a parking lot at a motel recently, and it worked very well.  That way you only need to reseat the side that you unseated to put in the new stem.   Just wet the tire with a soaked rag and if necessary sit the bike down on that section or use the strap method.

[Jetflyer]

Thank you for the advice thus far...

The front tire seems doable, leaving the wheel on the bike. Would you guys attempt this DIY technique on the rear wheel of a Tourer, with the bags in the way too?

[Chrisj CMA]

If you have a big enough C-Clamp to get the job done on the rear, the bags should not stop you.  Id have the bike on a lift though so the wheels are off the ground for sure

[Jetflyer]

It will be on a lift. I forgot to mention that. Tidbits of wisdom are always appreciated!!!

[fudgie]

Cant u pull out the old stem and push the new one in without tearing the tire apart? I looked at my jake wilson stem and it looks like you can. Unless I'm missing something.

[cantom]

The tire has to be moved to one side so you can access the valve from the inside...the new stem gets pushed through from the inside, no way to do that with the tire still in place with seated beads.

[Skinhead]

The tire has to be moved to one side so you can access the valve from the inside...the new stem gets pushed through from the inside, no way to do that with the tire still in place with seated beads.

You could use a hole saw to make an access hole in the tire just below the valve stem, but I wouldn't recommend this method, the tire is prone to leakage after the stem is installed.   

[Brian]

I tried using two 8" clamps from Sears with wood blocks. The clamps would move off the blocks as they were tightened. I ended up taking the wheel to the bike shop. They installed my new valve for $15. Maybe this winter when I do the drive line maintenance I will try it again.

[cantom]

I am thinking about using a woodworking drill spade bit to make a couple of circular cuts into the wood pieces, just deep enough to keep the C Clamp from sliding off as you tighten it up. Anyone tried that?

[Hook#3287]

I am thinking about using a woodworking drill spade bit to make a couple of circular cuts into the wood pieces, just deep enough to keep the C Clamp from sliding off as you tighten it up. Anyone tried that?

That sounds like a good idea

You'd want to use 2X stock so the clamps seats (?) won't punch through the blocks.

[chauffeur]

In Mike's first picture if you will turn the bottom board 90 degree's so that it contacts the rim and the tire at the same time it will break only the top bead.  That's all you need to do.  I did it in a parking lot at a motel recently, and it worked very well.  That way you only need to reseat the side that you unseated to put in the new stem.   Just wet the tire with a soaked rag and if necessary sit the bike down on that section or use the strap method.

I was the fortunate recipient of Thunderolt's generosity in the hotel parking lot.  Took all of 15 minutes to get her done and that included planning and strategizing.  Thanks again, fine sir.