Alternator?

[PhredValk]

This Sunday riding home from visiting out of town friends the bike (99 IS) started the same symptoms it showed this July when the alternator died; tach and speedo at zero, dash and stereo blinking on and off. Now in July I got about 4 miles before the bike died. This time I got over 15 miles and the power suddenly came back on! About 10 more miles it started again and the bike finally died.

I've started taking things apart a bit at a time before going to work but I thought I'd ask the knowledge bank here what they thought. Can a failed alternator come back to life? I'm thinking bad connection or ground...
Fred.

[Punisher]

It may be that connector under the battery box.   I think Novavalker originally brought it to our attention, even wrote up a document on it.   Apparently in some cases it can get crudded up and cause those sorts of issues.

Somebody will probably chime in shortly with links to the issue.   A search may turn up something as well.

[Mildew]

I've been waiting on something to go wrong with my bike. I have original everything, changed the headlight just because. Speedometer cable broke about 5+  years ago and the rear turn signals and brake light hasn't worked in years but I still ride like there ain't no tomarrow. Probably something simple.

[Mr Whiskey]

Can a failed alternator come back to life?

NO! It would hafta be a bad connection somewhere.
When mine died I had my Bro bring me a brand new batt that he jus' happened to have charged. It was for an inline 4 650 Honda. Got 'bout 15 to 18 mi.'s & it died in his driveway. Learned a little trick I shoulda thought of from this board. Pull the headlight fuse! Probably coulda rode it home.
Peace, Whiskey.

[PhredValk]

Update: it isn't the splice block, but now that that's done I feel better for the future. I'll check brushes etc. next weekend.

Fred.

[Hoser]

Clean up the relay under the right side cover,maybe corroded. It may even be fried.  If not, clean it up and put dylectric grease on it. If fried, replace the wiring.  This is a maintenance procedure often forgotten.  It is the one in the middle under a rubber cover. Hoser

[CASABROKER]

Have fun pulling the alternator..  Put a meter on it if it getting 14 volt when running drive it.  Pulling the alternator is a pain in the ass!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[PhredValk]

Thanks, CASA, but I've pulled and re-installed it twice in the last week. After doing the splice block thing I get 12 volts before starting, and 12 volts at 3000 RPM. There's no alt output.
Fred.

[Gryphon Rider]

When my alternator went a few years ago, the brushes were fine, but it was an issue with the rotor.  I had a local rewinder try to fix it, but he couldn't get it apart without destroying it. Perhaps you have someone more skilled close to you.  The most cost-effective way for me to get it fixed was to just replace the rotor with a new Honda part.  The Medicine Hat dealer had the best price (somewhere between $210-$250, I think), had it in stock, and were willing to ship it to me.

[Thunderbolt]

Did you check the 55A charge fuse under the right side cover?  Also there are four screws there that could be loose.  Two on top of the fuse and two below.

[CASABROKER]

Give it a funeral it's dead.  OEM hitachi from Japan  goldwing will fit valkyrie needs to be clocked same alternator but cheaper go to EMS Global web site best price hands down  Don't buy Chinese junk

[R J]

I've been waiting on something to go wrong with my bike. I have original everything, changed the headlight just because. Speedometer cable broke about 5+  years ago and the rear turn signals and brake light hasn't worked in years but I still ride like there ain't no tomarrow. Probably something simple.

I'd suspect you have bottomed out and tore the wires out of the connector that lets you take the lower 1/2 of the rear fender off.

[Hoser]

I've been waiting on something to go wrong with my bike. I have original everything, changed the headlight just because. Speedometer cable broke about 5+  years ago and the rear turn signals and brake light hasn't worked in years but I still ride like there ain't no tomarrow. Probably something simple.

I'd suspect you have bottomed out and tore the wires out of the connector that lets you take the lower 1/2 of the rear fender off.

I suspect you are 100% right RJ, did that myself at IZ at bellair. patched it up with some help from MP, and installed a new harness when I got home. hoser

[PhredValk]

HMMmmmmmm. I'll have a look.
Fred.

[PhredValk]

Update: the rotor has an open condition, broken wire somewhere.

Funny; Honda shop can't get parts, can't test the alt off the bike. My local Auto Electronics shop (Cooper Bros in Edmonton) tested, broke down and diagnosed the problem in an hour, and ordered a new replacement alt that came in the next day for under $300 tax in. I installed it this morning and am back on the road again.

I'll keep the broken alt and rebuild it when Honda has parts available so that I have a good spare.
Fred.

[eric in md]

thanks for update

[Gryphon Rider]

thanks for update

+1

[Hoser]

Update: the rotor has an open condition, broken wire somewhere.

Funny; Honda shop can't get parts, can't test the alt off the bike. My local Auto Electronics shop (Cooper Bros in Edmonton) tested, broke down and diagnosed the problem in an hour, and ordered a new replacement alt that came in the next day for under $300 tax in. I installed it this morning and am back on the road again.

I'll keep the broken alt and rebuild it when Honda has parts available so that I have a good spare.
Fred.

I expect the shop you use can get the parts and do the rebuild.  Hoser