Bead Breaker......

[Stanley Steamer]

Here's the almost finished project......hope it works like it's designed to.....

Bead breaker

[F6BANGER]

I would change the lower metal crossbar for wood so you dont scratch or gouge your wheel. Or at least glue a rubber strip to it....

[Stanley Steamer]

I would change the lower metal crossbar for wood so you dont scratch or gouge your wheel. Or at least glue a rubber strip to it....

I plan to line the frame with a rubber or foam material like you use on a truck bed for a camper shell......that's the "almost" done part........

The brake rotors will fit down inside of the frame and not be pushed into the ground

[The emperor has no clothes]

Looks good, I`m sure its gonna work great.

[PAVALKER]

I would change the lower metal crossbar for wood so you dont scratch or gouge your wheel. Or at least glue a rubber strip to it....

I plan to line the frame with a rubber or foam material like you use on a truck bed for a camper shell......that's the "almost" done part........

The brake rotors will fit down inside of the frame and not be pushed into the ground

I have a recommendation(s) for ya....  The curved piece you have hitting the tire is probably too wide and those pieces coming down from the top that you have welded to that curved piece should be behind the curved bead breaker.  You would probably be better off making the curved piece the same width as those pieces coming from the top.    JMO.... but otherwise the stock you have coming down can and probably will gouge the wheels.  And also recommend you make that curved piece at least twice as high as you have it (double the bar stock to add height) and put that in front of the down rods.   Getting there.....  

Oh one more.... I would recommend you weld another piece of square tube stock to the underside of your lever bar, and add more holes in the underside piece so you can adjust the position of the bead breaker.... front and rear tires are different sizes.

And finally.... might I recommend a matching two tone paint scheme in say Pearl Sonoma Green with Ocean Gray Metallic???

[Dogg]

Yes, move the down bars behind your break bar. Then when it is done, dip the whole piece in liquid electrical tape and let set overnight. Wont scratch anything then...looks fantastic tho.

[Stanley Steamer]

I would change the lower metal crossbar for wood so you dont scratch or gouge your wheel. Or at least glue a rubber strip to it....

I plan to line the frame with a rubber or foam material like you use on a truck bed for a camper shell......that's the "almost" done part........

The brake rotors will fit down inside of the frame and not be pushed into the ground

I have a recommendation(s) for ya....  The curved piece you have hitting the tire is probably too wide and those pieces coming down from the top that you have welded to that curved piece should be behind the curved bead breaker.  You would probably be better off making the curved piece the same width as those pieces coming from the top.    JMO.... but otherwise the stock you have coming down can and probably will gouge the wheels.  And also recommend you make that curved piece at least twice as high as you have it (double the bar stock to add height) and put that in front of the down rods.   Getting there.....  

Oh one more.... I would recommend you weld another piece of square tube stock to the underside of your lever bar, and add more holes in the underside piece so you can adjust the position of the bead breaker.... front and rear tires are different sizes.

And finally.... might I recommend a matching two tone paint scheme in say Pearl Sonoma Green with Ocean Gray Metallic???

I did drill extra holes in both the curved down bars and in the pivoting lever tubing so that those down bars can be moved in and out a little.....I took this pic before I did that though.......and the curved piece on the tire isn't actually welded to the down pieces.....I put some notches in them so they grab the curved piece........and I did think about cutting the tabs off of the front where they might hit the rim and then weld them to the back of the curved piece......doubling that piece up would make sense.....as it is, since it's not "rigid", you can move that curved piece around ....in and out.....and since I'm only going to use it on old tires, I don't care if it hits the tires......I like Dogg's idea of dipping the piece in that liquid rubber stuff......I had planned on cleaning the whole frame up a little, and then painting it plain black......and just add some kind of rubber or foam to the top of the frame where the wheel will sit.....I think I can see how it all works today when Hubcap comes over to help me change my front tire out.......and tweak anything that seems to need it.......Thanks for the comments....I think I may need to use some of those ideas......that's why I like running this stuff by you guys.....my normal hobby is woodworking, so I'm having to learn as I go with this metal stuff........