Carb clean/rebuild

[Highwayman]

Just wanted some input. My bike started running a little rough, took it to the dealer for a carb sync. They recommended removing, cleaning and rebuilding the carbs. They want 1800.00 dollars to do it! That seems way too high to me. What are your thoughts? thanks.

[Ricky-D]

A good regime of additive should be your first choice.

***

[Chrisj CMA]

Just wanted some input. My bike started running a little rough, took it to the dealer for a carb sync. They recommended removing, cleaning and rebuilding the carbs. They want 1800.00 dollars to do it! That seems way too high to me. What are your thoughts? thanks.

running a little rough.  Mine does that every once in a while.  A $5 bottle of techron fixes it.  the best part is you pour it in and the work is RIDING it.

Carb sync may smooth out an idle but its not going to change how she runs at say 2,000 rpms

[9Ball]

If the chemicals don't work, it's definitely a DIY project using the tech manual.  All new jets, O-rings and hoses should run you less than $200 and it's at worst a weekend job.

Tell the dealer no thanks...and for that price they should also give you a kiss.

[Hoosier Valk]

"My bike started running a little rough" - To me it sounds a long way from the $1,800.00 route. If you post a few more details someone on here may be able to offer more accurate advice. Rough idle, rough all the time, rough below 3,000 rpm's or rough above 3,000 rpm's, do you have to use the choke all the time? Good luck.

[Patrick]

When you say it runs a little rough, I'll assume you mean at lower engine speeds.  So, I'll agree with the fellas that say use to use a fuel system cleaner. Varnished low jets are fairly common with these monsters. A heavy dose of cleaner will help. Keep the engine speed at or below 2K as much as possible.

[SC_Valkman]

I just went through a DIY carb rebuild and it could be a full weekend job, if you know what you are doing and have all the tools.  I had a hydro-lock problem (stuck open float valve), so I had to go in there when nothing else would get it free.  Here's my thread about what was involved plus I took pictures along the way -

http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,59591.0.html

Here's a list of what I spent -
Service Manual @ $30 ($18 - $30 on eBay)
Valkyrie Carb O-ring kit @ $65 (http://redeye.ecrater.com/p/2063876/carburetor-o-ring-kit-viton-gf)
Can of SeaFoam @ $7-$8 (Lube parts during assembly -- Walmart, Autoparts stores)
Carburetor Dip Kit @ $35 (Gets off all residue -- Autoparts stores)
Vacuum Tester @ $80 (MityVac Kit) *Left over from outboard project*
Metric Socket set with extensions (already owned)
Various tools (screwdrivers, pliers, wrenches, etc.)
Quad Vacuum Gauge Set @ $80 (included bleed valves to stabilize needles)
Pilot Screw Wrench @ $60 (Motion Pro - http://www.amazon.com/Motorcycle-Mixture-Carburetor-Adjusting-Degree/dp/B005SUU24G/ref=pd_sim_sbs_auto_6)
Digital Tachometer @ $15 (Reads to 50-75 rpm, amazon.com or ebay)
Stubby Pilot Screw Wrench @ $6 (http://redeye.ecrater.com/p/5604503/stubby-pilot-screw-tool-on-bike?keywords=pilot+screw)
**Good for disassembly and adjustments on bench, but difficult to use for final adjustments on bike)
NOTE -- Many of the vacuum lines were cracking from age, so replaced all of them to avoid any unwanted leaks.

As mentioned by everyone else, exhaust all other options to clean out and adjust carbs before a rebuild.  At $100/hour for a mechanic and buying OEM Honda parts, the $1800 may be about right.  If you have done carburetors before along with other automotive, motorcycle or lawnmower engines, the DIY route will save you a lot of money and you will learn a lot but I would not count on doing it all in 1 weekend.  Buy the manual first to determine if you are up for it.  Good luck.

[sawdustar]

I watched all 9 parts to D-Ray's How-To video on youtube. Pt.1 1998 Honda GL1500C Valkyrie Project - Introduction

This will take the extreme fear away for you to do this yourself. Excellent material if you ask me.

[cokebottle10]

I just did mine before a 2200 mile round trip. I also pulled the shut off valve and screen. D-Rays video was very helpful. I did not take the carb assemble apart just cleaned the jets, needle valves, floats valves and passages. I did use the Redeye pilot tool. I reused the float bowl gaskets and O-rings. It would have been better if I had replaced them but still they are not leaking. I did replace the intake runner O-rings. I used di-electric grease on the O-rings to help hold them in place.

Three things I should have done. Mark the top of the rubber tubes from the air box where they connect to the carbs with a dot from a silver sharpie. This will help realign them. D-Rays video shows him cutting a slot in the idle adjustment screws and float bowl. I had the tool but once you remove the screw then cut a slot in it for a small screwdriver. Replace the float bowl screws.

These carbs are really simple to work on if you keep the assembly together. Some were between a car 2 barrel and a lawn mower carb. The floats are fixed and they have no real adjustments other than the idle screws. Mine were set between 2 and 2.25 turns out. I reset them all to 2 turns out. I still need to fine tune them, but the bike starts easily and idles nice hot or cold. I'm getting between 32 and 35 mpg with my fat 300lb + ass on it.

Just take a few photos of it before you take it apart. I had more problems figuring out how to take the two pods off my I/S than cleaning the carbs, but that's another thread.

Thanks,

David in Fletcher NC.

[John Schmidt]

A couple notes to add. Before you remove the carbs, be sure to drain the bowls. As for realigning the intakes from the airbox, not that big a deal. Look closely and you'll see they have little alignment marks already on them.

[Chiefy]

1800 is gouging you.  Most dealers do it for around 800.

[salty1]

Just wanted some input. My bike started running a little rough, took it to the dealer for a carb sync. They recommended removing, cleaning and rebuilding the carbs. They want 1800.00 dollars to do it! That seems way too high to me. What are your thoughts? thanks.

An outstanding example of a dealer whose is a "stealer". Don't be sucked in, just follow the great advice given above. You do need to answer the question as to the RPM where the bike runs rough. Also you may have a small vacuum leak that has developed, check your hoses and clamps associated with the carbs. You can also do the carb synch yourself. None of this is that difficult it just requires some time, patience and paying attention to some details. Good Luck! 

[Dragon-6]

The big ladies like seafoam, or at least mine does.  Dumped a whole can in before going overseas for two years and she started right up when I got back.  Make sure after putting the seafoam in the tank you run it a few miles or idle it to get it through out the system.  I skipped this step the last time I was away for 16 months and she ran very rough for about 100 miles.  Once a second can of seafoam was ran through her, not a single problem....except the 9 year old battery