clutch master cylinder push rod/ rebuild

[atxvalk]

Hey folks you have been a tremendous help in the past and I thank you Very Much! Another issue today-I have noticed a considerable amount of "play" in my clutch lever both vertically and now in and out. I removed the handle and discovered the rubber boot is ripped on the push rod, the brass bushing in the lever is flattened top and bottom and appears to be considerably worn out and, most interesting, the back of the lever has developed a hole through the back of the aluminum handle where the push rod sits and pushes. I think I have found all of the parts on line, including the "push rod rebuild kit", the bushing and the lever.
My question is: Is there any trick to rebuilding the master cylinder push rod and the subsequent bleeding or would it better to find a used complete assembly? I drive a lot in stop and go traffic and probably clutch a couple of hundred times per day. Also, is there any way to lessen the amount "pull" pressure on the clutch?   
THANK YOU IN ADVANCE TO THIS INCREDIBLE SOURCE OF KNOWLEDGE AND THE WILLINGNESS TO HELP!

[hubcapsc]

When I rebuilt the brake side (there are some differences) it appeared to me that the new
seal was going to be impossible to put on... I man-handled/stretched it on with a screwdriver
blade or some such rod, it has worked flawlessly since... my boots were ripped too, I don't
remember having any trouble replacing them...

-Mike

[sandy]

As for making an easier pull: After the rebuild, grease the pivot bushing and the pushrod bushing. Buy Kuryakin's wide blade levers and don't use any leather covers.

[Ricky-D]

The only thing I would say is:

Use OEM parts.

There have been some posts in the past about problems encountered
with using aftermarket rebuild parts.

***

[atxvalk]

Pardon my ignorance, does this require bleeding of the system? Are the Kury handles significantly better? I think the OEM equipment is a worthy idea. Thank you folks.

[PhredValk]

I have the Kury GL1800 adjustable levers and love them. No where near the long reach for the levers, and solid firm control on both.
Fred.

[Dorkman]

Pardon my ignorance, does this require bleeding of the system? Are the Kury handles significantly better? I think the OEM equipment is a worthy idea. Thank you folks.

The clutch will require bleeding whether you use the kit or install an entire unit.  Once the system is open, it will need bleeding.  Many threads on bleeding.  Speedbleeders are good, and there are several other methods.

The Kury levers are wider, thus finger pressure is distributed and they just feel easier to operate.  The chrome on the bottom side of my clutch lever flaked off after a year.  Little disappointed, but they only cost around $30.