Copper half washer left side rear end where does it go?

[VegasF6]

Had to remove the rear wheel today for a tire change. I am quite rusty in maintenance on the old girl.
Sometime after I removed the rear caliper bolts and tapped through the axle from the left, I went to the right side to remove the axle and a large copper half washer fell out. It has marked graduations on one side.

A: I don't know where it belongs
B: I don't know for sure that it should look as it does?



The graduations are on the other side, that pic didn't come out.
I do have a Honda maintenance book but it is packed away as I moved recently and is impossible to get to.

I am headed off to the tire store now, so if I don't answer right away that's why.

[F6BANGER]

Im guessing you have a wheel and brake disc from another year and you need a spacer between the frame and the collar. Looks like it was cut in half to slide it in there. It aligns the wheel so the disc doesnt rub the caliper.

Does that jog your memory?

[Daniel Meyer]

Not standard...

[VegasF6]

Hmm, nope the brake and caliper and wheel are all original to the bike (1998). I really don't recall putting it in there, I did have the wheels polished and re-installed by Viking motorcycles a million years ago (anyone remember them? Andy and Justin I think?)
But I am pretty sure I would have had the wheel off at least once since then.

So, on the left side, you just have the spacer and the axle and the nut, no washer between the nut and the frame? And of course it goes through the brake caliper too? No other spacers or washers or any other such thing?

Then on the right side, there is the spline drive itself, and a larger very thin "washer" which I think is actually just a plastic disc?

[Daniel Meyer]

Correct.

The large Teflon washer goes under the star on the wheel.

[BobB]

Listen to Daniel. He is the expert on all things Valkyrie. I dismantle my rear end every year and have never seen that half washer. The only copper washers at that location are small and seal the banjo bolts on your brake lines.

[VegasF6]

I believe him, lol, that's not an issue.

Haven't put it back together yet, need to get out there and do it.

[bentwrench]

What is the o.d. It could be the remnants of a wheel bearing seal?

[Bighead]

  I dismantle my rear end every year

Why?

[98pacecar]

Looks cut ta me.  

I used to do washers like that,,, to shim a shocks position...  ???

[VegasF6]

38mm od.
Copper plated steel, sticks to magnet. Where it was most likely cut you can see the raw steel/zinc coating whatever, so that is most likely more evidence it was cut.

Like I said, I sure don't remember doing it, but could have been someone else, though I haven't had much done to my bike outside of my own garage.

Got it back together about 30 mins ago, those right side exhaust nuts SUCK.
I have a brand new set of crush washers in a box, SOMEWHERE, but surprise, couldn't find them.

Here are some more pics, just because.

[John Schmidt]

You talked about the right side nuts, did you feel you had to remove the exhaust to service the final drive? You know that's absolutely unnecessary don't you? To say nothing of extra work, risk of snapping a header stud, and requires jacking over 700 lbs. nearly two feet in the air. In eleven years, I did that once when I first got the bike and that was enough. I now raise the bike only a couple inches off the floor, it's been discussed on here numerous times.

[Gryphon Rider]

My guess is that the washer got kicked up off the road and got stuck tight somewhere that loosened up when you pulled the axle.

John Schmidt, there are two exhaust nuts on each side that are near the front of the back tire. I always remove them so I can pry the exhaust away to let the wheel drop down. These might be what he's talking about.

[Mn. Norseman]

Used to push auto parts for a living, looks like an automotive valve shim, usually .015, .030, or .045 thick don't know what it would be doing on your bike.

[F6BANGER]

My 99 interstate has Chrome rims of ?? year. And not sure about the disc brake. Disc was rubbing on caliper bracket. Talked to Master Blaster and he told me about a 1/8 thick washer/shim. I used a washer but you have to put the axle through it. If the washer is cut, you can put it in later. I have been using this washer for over 90,000 miles. no problems. Some of the gurus can look at the brake disc and see the depth of the screws and Identify the year. I cant remember???

I correct myself from my earlier post, the washer is between the collar and the bracket, not the collar and the frame/swingarm.

[VegasF6]

The exhaust nuts I mean are the header nuts, 6 per side. I did the tire change according to the VRCC shop talk page, found here:
http://www.valkyrieriders.com/shoptalk/TireChangeSplineLube.htm

I since see that some other methods are practiced, including not dropping the pipes at all and instead prying them to the side and using a wooden chalk.
Honestly I would be more worried about damaging the stud or breaking the pipes at a weld etc manhandling them around in such a manner than simply dropping the exhaust.

I had hoped to change the crush washers while I was in there as I said I know I have a new set laying around. But that didn't happen.  The left side of the bike really isn't much hassle at all, but the right, yah, that's a different story. Probably could have removed the crash bars and made it a touch easier but enough was enough


Anyhow, near as I could tell everything went smooth on the test ride, tried to keep her under 100.
Ditched the old skate board helmet I have been wearing for years and bought a new full face Thursday, and gave her the maiden voyage too. Picked up a Bilt modular with integrated blue tooth and bike to bike communication too. Definitely a bit more claustrophobic with that on, but it seems quite nice. Certainly kept my face warmer. Haven't completely figured out how to make calls yet, but listened to music and received a call and kept it the whole ride home (for test purposes) pretty good!

[VegasF6]

My 99 interstate has Chrome rims of ?? year. And not sure about the disc brake. Disc was rubbing on caliper bracket. Talked to Master Blaster and he told me about a 1/8 thick washer/shim. I used a washer but you have to put the axle through it. If the washer is cut, you can put it in later. I have been using this washer for over 90,000 miles. no problems. Some of the gurus can look at the brake disc and see the depth of the screws and Identify the year. I cant remember???

I correct myself from my earlier post, the washer is between the collar and the bracket, not the collar and the frame/swingarm.

You know, actually as I think about it, they of course did polish the wheels in advance of my road trip to San Ber-doo and then we just did an exchange after I got there. So I don't really know what year the wheels are from.

Didn't notice any rubbing on the test ride, but I better take a closer look for spacing of the brake caliper etc...

[PhredValk]

I don't loosen anything on the exhaust to remove/install the rear wheel, which I do every spring to check, clean, and re-lube the splines.

This 'shim' thingy was on the right side of the bike? Any chance it was an attempt to move the rim to avoid a DS tire from rubbing the fender or swing arm?
Fred.

[olddog1946]

  I dismantle my rear end every year

Why?

He might put 10K a year on his bike... I do

[VegasF6]

Left side.
No haven't run a dark side on this bike. Was seriously considering it this time around though. Are there any being used now days that you don't have to cut the nut cages or anything in the fender? Just straight install?

[Bighead]

  I dismantle my rear end every year

Why?

He might put 10K a year on his bike... I do

That still doesn't answer the question as to why? Not trying to be a wise ass but would like to know.

[F6BANGER]

 I dismantle my rear end every year

Why?

He might put 10K a year on his bike... I do

That still doesn't answer the question as to why? Not trying to be a wise ass but would like to know.

Preventive maintenance....??

[F6BANGER]

Left side.
No haven't run a dark side on this bike. Was seriously considering it this time around though. Are there any being used now days that you don't have to cut the nut cages or anything in the fender? Just straight install?

Not sure what left side meaning is??
Is that where the spacer fell from?

Maybe the Austone Taxi tire might fit without any mods...

[BobB]

 I dismantle my rear end every year

Why?

He might put 10K a year on his bike... I do

That still doesn't answer the question as to why? Not trying to be a wise ass but would like to know.

Preventive maintenance....??

Bingo...  My '98 Tourer rests in my basement workshop for four to five months over winter. What better time for preventative maintance on a machine built in August of 1997. Besides, I had the much talked about pinion cup failure in 2012 while I was 700+ miles from home.  I put 8 -10K on her each year but I'm not currently riding. 

[VegasF6]

Correct it came from the left side. Most likely as shown above between caliper bracket and wheel.

[hubcapsc]

Used to push auto parts for a living, looks like an automotive valve shim, usually .015, .030, or .045 thick don't know what it would be doing on your bike.

BINGO!

http://www.silver-seal.com/c=FF4pI99iVa1ne55XJjnIWSxFa/category/shop.1_cylinder_head_rebuilding.1_valve_spring_inserts/

-Mike

[John Schmidt]

Gryphon and Vegas, I have NEVER had to move, pry, bend, or otherwise mess with the exhaust. They don't need to be touched just to get the wheel to drop or raise. Use a lift to raise the bike & wheel a couple inches off the floor, then a floor jack to support the swingarm. Remove the shocks and the wheel will raise/lower quite a few inches with the floor jack, more than enough to clear the exhaust. I remove the rear half of the fender and then pull the wheel. When just a couple inches high it rolls right out after disengaging. It takes a bit longer with a c/t, but a bike tire I've had it out in about the same time it takes to remove or pry the exhaust out of the way. And as an added bonus, the bike is only 2-3" off the floor, not nearly 2'.

[R J]

I agree with John, removal of pipes is just another myth the Honda people put in their booklet for the Valkyrie.

In 243+K, my exhaust was only off once during a tire change.   That was because I was going from my 6X6 pipes to a Glass Pac modified exhaust at the same time.

[HayHauler]

  I dismantle my rear end every year

Why?

He might put 10K a year on his bike... I do

That still doesn't answer the question as to why? Not trying to be a wise ass but would like to know.

Bighead, the Honda manual suggests taking the rear end apart every 10k miles to check and re-lube the drive splines.  I used to do the maintenance at every rear tire change (I got 8k miles out of MC tires), but since switching to a CT, I pull the rear every 10k and change tires almost every 20k.  It ends up being about 8k and 17k intervals, but that is more often than the manual.

Hay  
Jimmyt

[hubcapsc]

I agree with John, removal of pipes is just another myth the Honda people put in their booklet for the Valkyrie.

In 243+K, my exhaust was only off once during a tire change.   That was because I was going from my 6X6 pipes to a Glass Pac modified exhaust at the same time.

I now take my wheel off the same way John Schmidt does it, including "I remove the rear half of the fender
and then pull the wheel"...

I've also done it by taking the mufflers off.

And by wedging... on my bike and Stanley Steamer's, that's how he
likes to do it...

It looks like it would be a drag to take Stanley's Interstate rear fender off with all
that trunk and CB stuff...

As long as you have new gaskets for the mufflers, taking them off is pretty easy,
and opens things up for working. I've only taken them off once since I put on the
forward controls, they make removing the mufflers more clumsy...

I haven't taken my mufflers off in five years or so, I hope they still come off easy
without any trouble with the studs... RJ, I bet your studs are welded in there  ...

-Mike

[VegasF6]

Maybe a good time to go ahead and remve them then, and add some anti-seize

[hubcapsc]

Maybe a good time to go ahead and remve them then, and add some anti-seize

The studs won't break off if you don't mess with them  ...

I was glad when mine gave no trouble... I had rotten pipes on my bike when I got it,
and changed pipes several times... plus, I took the pipes off the first time I
changed the rear tire...

If you decide to take your pipes off and break a stud, they are made to break off
with some still sticking out, so you'll have something to grab on to. I have some
extra studs and some extra nut$ (the nuts are chrome plated solid gold or something)
ready for the next time I need to remove a pipe...

If you get as far as putting the nuts back on, don't tighten them much... just snug them,
and then recheck them every ride for a few rides... New gaskets (the hollow OEM copper
kind) have to be mashed down... once I reused the gaskets and had an exhaust leak, though
some folks have reused them successfully...

-Mike

[Gryphon Rider]

Gryphon and Vegas, I have NEVER had to move, pry, bend, or otherwise mess with the exhaust. They don't need to be touched just to get the wheel to drop or raise. Use a lift to raise the bike & wheel a couple inches off the floor, then a floor jack to support the swingarm. Remove the shocks and the wheel will raise/lower quite a few inches with the floor jack, more than enough to clear the exhaust. I remove the rear half of the fender and then pull the wheel. When just a couple inches high it rolls right out after disengaging. It takes a bit longer with a c/t, but a bike tire I've had it out in about the same time it takes to remove or pry the exhaust out of the way. And as an added bonus, the bike is only 2-3" off the floor, not nearly 2'.

It's been a while since I've last had my back wheel off, so I don't remember exactly why I have to get the swing arm down past the exhaust, but that's what I do.  To get it that low, the exhaust needs to be pried out some.  I use open-end wrenches to pry with and to put between the exhaust and the exhaust hanger.  I don't touch the header nuts.  I don't remove the rear half of the fender, so I get the bike high enough to roll the tire out past the back of the fender.

[hubcapsc]

so I don't remember exactly why I have to get the swing arm down past the exhaust, but that's what I do.

To get the axle out... the pipe is in the way...

Some people take the shocks off and raise the swingarm instead. I always do it that way now  ..

What with taking the rear fender section off and the shocks off, I hardly jack my bike an inch
off the ground...

-Mike

[VegasF6]

Maybe a good time to go ahead and remve them then, and add some anti-seize

. I have some
extra studs and some extra nut$ (the nuts are chrome plated solid gold or something)
ready for the next time I need to remove a pipe...


-Mike

Lol uhoh. 
I managed to lose one sometime in the distant past.  Just using a regular open nut right now but I would like to replace it. 
That and the 4 final drive nuts, managed to gouge them some despite having snap on wrenches and sockets. 

[Randy3269]

I agree with the post above. It is a valve spring shim. I was an automotive machinist for 12 years and we used thousands of them. It might have been a shade tree fix for a perceived problem by the previous owner. Look over the manual an put it back together as written. You should be fine.

.02
Randy

[PhredValk]

There's another thread on here talking about having to shim the rear caliper mount when using an older wheel and disk on a later model Valk, to make the caliper and disk line up properly. Could that be it?
Fred.