Electrical help... Sears Drill Press

[Black Dog]

I have a Sears 1/2 hp bench top Drill Press that has given up on me...

Using a 1 1/2" Forestner bit, to drill about 20 holes through 3/4" birch.  Got about half way through, and the bit started stopping with very little pressure.  Soon, it wouldn't do anything, once it hit the wood.  I opened the cover, and the belt tension was good.  Took off the belt and turned the press on, and the motor shaft barely moved.

No smoke.  No smell, like I fried something.  Could it be brushes?  Did I fry the motor?  It's a nice little tool, and I'd like to fix it if possibel.  Can it be fixed, or do I need to go searching for a replacement?

Thanks in advance.

Black Dog

[Valker]

Motors go bad.....and 1/2 horse is not very big on a drill press...especially running a 1 1/2" Forestner bit.
I'd just replace the motor. Heck, my garbage disposal is 3/4 hp.

[Jack]

It may have gotten hot and may run again after cooling off a while.  Most motors have a heat overload built in.

[sandy]

What size supply wire is feeding the press? It needs at least a 15 amp breaker with #14 wire. If you are using a small extension cord, it might overheat under a load.

[FryeVRCCDS0067]

If you've got an air compressor then unplug the drill press and blow out the motor through every vent hole in it. Go back and forth to all of them several times.

Many small AC motors have a set of centrifugal contacts in them. These contacts allow the motor to start up with high torque and then as the RPM's increase the centrifugal force changes them to high RPM mode. If they get cruddy/sticky (tech terms!) it can prevent the motor from running. It happened to one of my table saws years ago. All has been well through many hours and years of use after I cleaned this area up with compressed air.

If you look into the motor vents with a flashlight from both ends you may be able to see if your motor is like this. Good luck and let us know how it works out.

[BonS]

In addition to what was said above, some motors have start and run capacitors. The centrifugal weights remove the start capacitors as the motor gets up to speed. A run capacitor stays in the circuit while the motor is at speed. Without a run capacitor you won't get much torque. With a heavy load on the motor the run capacitor gets a workout (as well as the motor windings) and can be damaged. All this is why many small, inexpensive, electric motors are junked when they quit as it can be hard to determine the exact problem without spare parts and experience to guide you.

[Goody]

In addition to what was said above, some motors have start and run capacitors. The centrifugal weights remove the start capacitors as the motor gets up to speed. A run capacitor stays in the circuit while the motor is at speed. Without a run capacitor you won't get much torque. With a heavy load on the motor the run capacitor gets a workout (as well as the motor windings) and can be damaged. All this is why many small, inexpensive, electric motors are junked when they quit as it can be hard to determine the exact problem without spare parts and experience to guide you.

What he Said!
I would suspect the Capacitor.  You can get them from grainger.  See if there is a frame size on the motor and also the rpm on the nameplate of the motor.  I have quite a few motors  and could most likely match it up and probably have a 3/4 hp that may fit.  Just the cost of shipping if I have it.
I changed a lot of my equipment over to VFD drives and three phase motors (115 v in 230 v out) and i have the belt set at the highest speed and controll from the vfd.

[Black Dog]

I'll have the time tonight to putz around and try all of these things.  Really appreiciate everyone helpin' out 

Black Dog