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Inzane 17

bad bearings ??

Started by fubar606, Mon 30, Jun 2014, 13:35:42

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fubar606

put a new tire on this week . took it for a test ride and have a kinda  ZUG  ZUG   ZUG  sound and feel is most pronounced in 2nd gear right 30 mph.  then it either blends  in or goes away tried to get it to show up in 3rd at 30mph and lugged 4 at 30mph no show . it is more pronounced with two up.  I am thinking bearings tore it down nothing in the wheel brg, made sure I torqued everything to spec and in the right order . still the same NOW I am seeing kind of a graphite looking dust on the rim it is kinda streaming off the wheel 6 or 8 spots . so now I am thinking a bad brg in the pumpkin   tore it down again still nothing ,  ANY thoughts ???  
life is sexually transmitted and always fatal

Valker

The dust on the rim is how mine told me the flange was worn.
I ride a motorcycle because nothing transports me as quickly from where I am to who I am.

fubar606

Quote from: Valker on Mon 30, Jun 2014, 13:37:52
The dust on the rim is how mine told me the flange was worn.

  the plastic flange?
life is sexually transmitted and always fatal

Valker

Quote from: fubar606 on Mon 30, Jun 2014, 13:49:40
Quote from: Valker on Mon 30, Jun 2014, 13:37:52
The dust on the rim is how mine told me the flange was worn.

  the plastic flange?

No, the metal part. #8 on this page: http://www.ronayers.com/REAR-WHEEL-C194981.aspx
And the corresponding part on the final drive.
I ride a motorcycle because nothing transports me as quickly from where I am to who I am.

salty1

Did you push the caliper pistons in some? You may have a pad that's dragging.  :-\
My rides:
1998 GL1500C, 2000 GL 1500CF,2006 GL 1800 3A


fubar606

can that bearing behind the flange in the pumpkin the (8 bolts gear cover  ) be changed  in my shop with out the Honda special  tools or is it better left un opened . and taken to the shop?
life is sexually transmitted and always fatal

fubar606

Quote from: salty1 on Mon 30, Jun 2014, 16:02:08
Did you push the caliper pistons in some? You may have a pad that's dragging.  :-\

           When i put pressur on the breaks the.  (Zugs)  dont go away
life is sexually transmitted and always fatal

Ricky-D

The only bearing that carry the bike load are the wheel bearings.

None of the bearings in the pumpkin are "load bearing".

You need to inspect more closely.

Insure you have the thrust washer installed.

***
2000_Valkyrie_Interstate

biguglyman

did you remember to put the teflon thrust washer back in?

fubar606

thrust washer is in ,   I have ordered new dampeners new thrust washer and seal .  had a nice talk with (Chrisj cma)  thanks, we will see if that will do the fix .thinking it will
                                   I will up date when the parts get here  thanks for all of your input
life is sexually transmitted and always fatal

fubar606

Ok the parts are here  dampener set, new oil seal, new thrust washer , and a couple new  bushings for the shocks O and a new to me set of shocks .  all put on the old girl and it feels like all the problems are cured thank you all (chrisj) for your in put
life is sexually transmitted and always fatal

Chrisj CMA


nogrey

Just a comment here after reading the thread: I am assuming you had no "Zug-zug" before replacing the old tire. The new tire shouldn't have caused the issue. All the questions you were asked and you reviewed were good and valid. One question I would ask (had I seen the thread early on) would be: Did you remember to loosen the 4 bolts on the pumpkin at the drive line before removing the tire, and did you remember to tighten them back up only AFTER the rear wheel was installed and the Axel was secure? It's in the shop manual as part of the process and is to assure that alignment is correct between the pumpkin and the final drive gear. Skipping this process (which many do) is the #2 cause of worn final drive gears. #1 cause is failure to lubricate.
I only ask because all you would need to do to correct this at this point would be to loosen, and re-torque these 4 bolts to correct.

Chrisj CMA

Great!  Good Job   :cooldude:  Glad all is working as it should again!

fubar606

Quote from: nogrey on Tue 08, Jul 2014, 09:40:11
Just a comment here after reading the thread: I am assuming you had no "Zug-zug" before replacing the old tire. The new tire shouldn't have caused the issue. All the questions you were asked and you reviewed were good and valid. One question I would ask (had I seen the thread early on) would be: Did you remember to loosen the 4 bolts on the pumpkin at the drive line before removing the tire, and did you remember to tighten them back up only AFTER the rear wheel was installed and the Axel was secure? It's in the shop manual as part of the process and is to assure that alignment is correct between the pumpkin and the final drive gear. Skipping this process (which many do) is the #2 cause of worn final drive gears. #1 cause is failure to lubricate.
I only ask because all you would need to do to correct this at this point would be to loosen, and re-torque these 4 bolts to correct.



        when I put the new tire on I did not loosen the four bolts just to do the tire work , was advised of that and put her back on the stand and corrected that, 
life is sexually transmitted and always fatal

The emperor has no clothes

I don't loosen the pumpkin bolts till I have the tire off.

Chrisj CMA

Quote from: meathead on Tue 08, Jul 2014, 13:21:10
I don't loosen the pumpkin bolts till I have the tire off.

Loose or tight doesn't affect removing the tire one bit  ;D.  I routinely pop the wheel off the pumpkin with the four bolts still tight, then remove the final drive and the important part is that you only loosely finger tighten the 4 bolts until the axle is torqued.  Then immediately torque the 4 bolts and you are set.  Nothing else  (as far as sequence) really matters as long as it all gets done.

The emperor has no clothes

Quote from: Chrisj CMA on Tue 08, Jul 2014, 15:37:03
Quote from: meathead on Tue 08, Jul 2014, 13:21:10
I don't loosen the pumpkin bolts till I have the tire off.

Loose or tight doesn't affect removing the tire one bit  ;D.  I routinely pop the wheel off the pumpkin with the four bolts still tight, then remove the final drive and the important part is that you only loosely finger tighten the 4 bolts until the axle is torqued.  Then immediately torque the 4 bolts and you are set.  Nothing else  (as far as sequence) really matters as long as it all gets done.
Gotcha, that's what I do :cooldude: