Something failed... She no go now...

[O-B-1]

The Phat Lady broke down this morning. It slipped a couple of times, not has a knock/rattle from the back and no go. I suspect the splines are gone from somewhere... Probably the shops changing the tires not greasing them as part of the reassembly process.

Won't know for sure until I can get her apart this weekend.

Sucks... She is my commuter vehicle. I guess the old "La Bamba" 1992 Mustang LX will have to take that role for awhile. 65 miles to work.... Ugh.

Are the u-joints now available? A search had posts from 2101 saying they were not available. Nothing on pinwall.com
 

[Daniel Meyer]

Most likely the pinion cup and drive shaft. Easy repair. Not expensive parts (under $150). Takes about 1/2 hour longer than a rear tire removal/replace.

U joints are available also.

Pull the rear wheel, take off the 4 nuts that hold the rear end to the swing arm, pull out rear-end and shaft, pull the shaft out of the pinion cup and you'll see it.

[salty1]

Most likely the pinion cup and drive shaft. Easy repair. Not expensive parts (under $150). Takes about 1/2 hour longer than a rear tire removal/replace.

U joints are available also.

Pull the rear wheel, take off the 4 nuts that hold the rear end to the swing arm, pull out rear-end and shaft, pull the shaft out of the pinion cup and you'll see it.

I'm guessing the pinion cup was stripped by the shaft too!      Keep us posted and share pics of what you find please.   

[old2soon]

I've seen the U-joints at H D L and Partzilla but the ARE a tad spendy compared to 2 years ago. I'm with Daniel-most likely the P-cup. RIDE SAFE.

[Paxton]

"... A search had posts from 2101 saying they were not available."
==========================================

Back to the future? They'll probably be out of stock in 87 years!

[The emperor has no clothes]

"... A search had posts from 2101 saying they were not available."
==========================================

Back to the future? They'll probably be out of stock in 87 years!

Michael J. Fox rides a Valkyrie ?

[Glenn-B]

"... A search had posts from 2101 saying they were not available."
==========================================

Back to the future? They'll probably be out of stock in 87 years!

Michael J. Fox rides a Valkyrie ?

Yes and he can get white walls for his 

[O-B-1]

"... A search had posts from 2101 saying they were not available."
==========================================

Back to the future? They'll probably be out of stock in 87 years!

<CHUCKLE> Paxton, you have met a typing-challenged and sometimes dyslexic computer network tech, probably why I don't write software code...

[O-B-1]

"... A search had posts from 2101 saying they were not available."
==========================================

Back to the future? They'll probably be out of stock in 87 years!

Michael J. Fox rides a Valkyrie ?

Yes... it's called warp drive, as the Valkyrie's are nearly twice as fast as that stainless steel garbage driven machine the Doc had.

[O-B-1]

Most likely the pinion cup and drive shaft. Easy repair. Not expensive parts (under $150). Takes about 1/2 hour longer than a rear tire removal/replace.

U joints are available also.

Pull the rear wheel, take off the 4 nuts that hold the rear end to the swing arm, pull out rear-end and shaft, pull the shaft out of the pinion cup and you'll see it.

Thank you, kindly. I hope that is it. Me thinks my retired boss was a bit of a showman and a hot-rodder... Probably realized the Valkyrie had more poop than his HD Road King.

It has just over 70k. I have the Gates timing belts in hand that I was going to replace this weekend.

I will see what the splines look like there.

Again, thanks for your help.

[O-B-1]

There are two part numbers listed for the propeller shaft, 40201-MZ0-000 is $96.66 and 40201-MZ0-A00 is $47.79. Anyone know what the difference may be?

My friend had his replaced in 2009 with the cheaper and just had to have it replaced again just this year.

[The emperor has no clothes]

There are two part numbers listed for the propeller shaft, 40201-MZ0-000 is $96.66 and 40201-MZ0-A00 is $47.79. Anyone know what the difference may be?

My friend had his replaced in 2009 with the cheaper and just had to have it replaced again just this year.

I think the 97's had the more expensive shaft. I think maybe your friend didn't lube it correctly or often enough.

[Daniel Meyer]

No discernible difference...get the cheap one.

Pull the shaft at each tire change and clean the crud out, lightly lube, and you'll never have another problem.

[salty1]

I totally agree with Daniel.  This link maybe helpful.

http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,55542.msg533609.html#msg533609

[O-B-1]

A big thank you to those who assisted me. To those whom I cam back form the future to converse with, a thank you also, for the laugh you gave me during the rough week I had.

The pinion cup was full of RUST powder... The splines in the shaft and cup were LINED up peak to peak! Made it quite obvious where the issue was. Looks like the o-ring betwixt the swing arm housing & final drive housing was ABSENT!

That being said, do I have the shop work the final drive & pinion cup replacement, or attempt it myself? I am low on tools & the manual recommends the "stealer" do so.

I think I will buy the seals and have all those replaced. New drive cushion rubbers, and nylon thrust washer. Should the U-joint be replaced at this point (72,000 miles)?

[salty1]

Glad you got it figured out. No need to have the dealer do the work. You took apart, you can put it it back together.    Pay attention to torque values. If you need help, just give us line or two.

[indybobm]

It always helps to post pictures of the pinion cup/driveshaft and final drive splines along with the drive flange. That way you can get additional opinions of how it works. Changing the pinion cup is not difficult. The hard part is keeping the pinion cup from turning while you are taking off the nut that holds the pinion cup on. Easiest way to remove and install the nut for the pinion cup is to use a air driven impact wrench capable of 100 ft lbs. Not difficult at all.

[O-B-1]

It always helps to post pictures of the pinion cup/driveshaft and final drive splines along with the drive flange. That way you can get additional opinions of how it works. Changing the pinion cup is not difficult. The hard part is keeping the pinion cup from turning while you are taking off the nut that holds the pinion cup on. Easiest way to remove and install the nut for the pinion cup is to use a air driven impact wrench capable of 100 ft lbs. Not difficult at all.

Okay... Will post pictures once all is cleaned up good. There is a piece or two on the microfiche at RonAyers.com that seemed to have been missing on dis-assembly. One was the o-ring between the swing arm & the final drive and another in the rear wheel...

[Chrisj CMA]

It always helps to post pictures of the pinion cup/driveshaft and final drive splines along with the drive flange. That way you can get additional opinions of how it works. Changing the pinion cup is not difficult. The hard part is keeping the pinion cup from turning while you are taking off the nut that holds the pinion cup on. Easiest way to remove and install the nut for the pinion cup is to use a air driven impact wrench capable of 100 ft lbs. Not difficult at all.

Okay... Will post pictures once all is cleaned up good. There is a piece or two on the microfiche at RonAyers.com that seemed to have been missing on dis-assembly. One was the o-ring between the swing arm & the final drive and another in the rear wheel...

There is no O-ring to service between the swing arm and the final drive.

[Valkpilot]

It always helps to post pictures of the pinion cup/driveshaft and final drive splines along with the drive flange. That way you can get additional opinions of how it works. Changing the pinion cup is not difficult. The hard part is keeping the pinion cup from turning while you are taking off the nut that holds the pinion cup on. Easiest way to remove and install the nut for the pinion cup is to use a air driven impact wrench capable of 100 ft lbs. Not difficult at all.

Okay... Will post pictures once all is cleaned up good. There is a piece or two on the microfiche at RonAyers.com that seemed to have been missing on dis-assembly. One was the o-ring between the swing arm & the final drive and another in the rear wheel...

There is no O-ring to service between the swing arm and the final drive.

Perhaps he's referring to the pinion cup oil seal.

[O-B-1]

It always helps to post pictures of the pinion cup/driveshaft and final drive splines along with the drive flange. That way you can get additional opinions of how it works. Changing the pinion cup is not difficult. The hard part is keeping the pinion cup from turning while you are taking off the nut that holds the pinion cup on. Easiest way to remove and install the nut for the pinion cup is to use a air driven impact wrench capable of 100 ft lbs. Not difficult at all.

Okay... Will post pictures once all is cleaned up good. There is a piece or two on the microfiche at RonAyers.com that seemed to have been missing on dis-assembly. One was the o-ring between the swing arm & the final drive and another in the rear wheel...

There is no O-ring to service between the swing arm and the final drive.

Aaaah... the o-ring goes around the pinion retainer....
Yeap, photos of the pinion cup & associated propeller shaft end...


I think the final drive to hub splines are okay, just need cleaned and greased.


It appears they had some form of red lubricant in the pinion socket that "dried" to a rusty powder, or maybe it was never lubricated at all and it actually was rust powder...
I am taking the final drive to the "stealer" with the parts. Having them replace all three seals and change the pinion cup (or joint) for me. I will do the rest of the work.
It also appears the shop I had just change my tires DID NOT LUBRICATE THE DRIVE SPLINES. SO from now on I will be doing the majority of my own work. SHEESH... You just can't find good service these days.

[olddog1946]

That pinion cup and drive shaft do indeed need to be replaced. The final drive splines actually look to be in fair shape, certainly serviceable.
Don't waste you time taking it to a dealer,,,,,,and the Honda shop down there is now an off road, KTM shop. So you may not find the parts anyway. When I changed my pinion cup on the newest valk, I just used the impact gun and a hunk of wood to hold the drive flange. Easy peazy.

[Chrisj CMA]

I still don't think you will be able to change an 0-ring there at the pinion cup.  I have removed a pinion cup...never installed one, but there was no 0-ring there that I can remember.

[Skinhead]

I'm not seeing any holes in the bottom of that pinion cup (unles one is at 12:00 and one is at 6:00 and hidden by the alledged lubricant).  Could that be a misbuit pinion cup?  Once you have it off, please post if the holes are present.

[olddog1946]

I'm not seeing any holes in the bottom of that pinion cup (unles one is at 12:00 and one is at 6:00 and hidden by the alledged lubricant).  Could that be a misbuit pinion cup?  Once you have it off, please post if the holes are present.

I think the holes are at 4 and 10 o'clock..doesn't really matter since he can't use that one anyway.

[Skinhead]

I'm not seeing any holes in the bottom of that pinion cup (unles one is at 12:00 and one is at 6:00 and hidden by the alledged lubricant).  Could that be a misbuit pinion cup?  Once you have it off, please post if the holes are present.

I think the holes are at 4 and 10 o'clock..doesn't really matter since he can't use that one anyway.

Agreed, I just didn't see them in the photo, it would explain the failure is all.

[Valkpilot]

I still don't think you will be able to change an 0-ring there at the pinion cup.  I have removed a pinion cup...never installed one, but there was no 0-ring there that I can remember.

I agree with Chris.  That O-ring is part of the interior assembly and can't be accessed just by pulling the pinion cup.

[O-B-1]

The O-Ring is actually around the outside of the pinion retainer, found that in the factory manual.

Old Dog... How ya been buddy?

I tried using my manual impact driver to loosen the nut with the failed cup in my vise, and a 18"x1/2" drive breaker bar with 6-point socket... No such luck, tighter than a big bank! I think the Hermiston dealership is the off road one. I was going to cage the "punkin" to USA Honda in Walla Walla... They do a lot of "Wing" service there and have for years. I was thinking I would have the seals replaced while I have it apart, since they are most likely 70,000 miles old.

The "lube" you see in the picture was after rinsing with silicone spray in hopes of getting the nut loose.

[KG]

just take it to the nearest auto garage or tire shop and they can zip it off and on for you. Most Napa and other auto parts stores have an electric impact they use for alternator pulleys and if not busy may do it for free.

[O-B-1]

The final drive cushions did not come with the metal inserts.

Should I order new inserts?
Maybe check the old ones to see if the holes have been pounded out of round?

I cut one of the old cush rubbers and the metal inserts in those will push into the new rubbers. But they are aluminum. I am asking because they holes in the aluminum inserts do not appear to have out of round holes, but I do not have an inside micrometer to check them, either.

Maybe I will just reuse them and order new ones for the next tire change.

So, insert the metal inserts, pucush rubbers in the freezer. Set wheel out in the sun in teh morning (it has been above 100 all week) and then drop them in about 2-3PM... Got it! 

[O-B-1]

ON THE ROAD AGAIN! The Phat Gurl, she sings!