Dead Valk - Can't get starter out - Help!

[Divot]

Inexplicably my Valkyrie just would not crank and start the other morning.  I have a headlight and indicator lights (sometimes) and the starter relay does click. 

I checked the battery (showed 14 volts) and put in a second one anyway just to make sure that wasn't it.  I dismantled the starter button but it seemed fine (I had done the recommended mtc. some time ago).  I checked the starter relay and it seems to work as per the manual check.  I'm left thinking it may be the starter.

I have the bolts out of the starter, the electrical connection undone and its out of the block, but I can't get it out of the frame to check it out.  I have the center plate loose and slide out of the way, which is all the manual says to do, but it's short about 1/2" from the starter shaft clearing the block and being able to remove it.  Is there a trick to removing the starter? 

Any ideas what the problem might be, if not the starter?

[Chrisj CMA]

Anything is possible but you attacked the most difficult and least likely to be the problem.  Id be suspect of your battery checker if it showed a standing battery to have 14V that's what its supposed to show when running.  12-13V is a good non running battery.

How were the ground connections?

Did you try to jump it off your car battery that you know is good?

[Thunderbolt]

Hydrolock? Can you roll it down the hill with the key on and the transmission in second gear and try to crank it? You might try to roll it backwards while in gear to clear the cylinders first.  Do you have a test light?  If so you can put the clip on the battery negative terminal and the probe end on the solenoid.  One side should light the lamp any time you touch it.  The other should only light the lamp when you press the starter button and you hear the solenoid click.  If it won't light the lamp the internal contacts are burned and have insulated themselves.  You can do the same on the starter where the wire from the solenoid is attached to the starter.

[nogrey]

Is there a time that I can come over and take a look at it?

[Divot]

I finally got the starter out by loosening and pushing back the battery box.  The starter checked out OK as I suspected and it's reinstalled.  The bike is now completely dead (no headlight or indicator lights), I'm hoping this might be a result of the bank angle sensor as I cannot get the front plate with the seat lock back into position.

Not sure if removing the tank might help with this, but may have to resort to that.  I sorta hate to dismantle any more things, lest I create more problems than the original electrical issue.   

[indybobm]

I do not think that the Bank angle Sensor would keep the indicator lights from coming on.
Seems like there have been a number of bikes lately that show no indication of power.
Probably some kind of disconnect between the battery/ignition switch/fuse box circuitry.
Time to use a volt meter or test light and start tracing it. Search the formum for some of the recent no power posts and read those. I think this will be somethng more than the start switch since the indicator lights are not coming on.

If you are familiar with reading wiring diagrams/schematics check this:

http://www.rattlebars.com/valkfaq/schematics/index.html

Click on either 'Valkyrie Standard/Tourer models' or 'Valkyrie Interstate models' depending on what you have. When the page comes up, at the top of the page will be S1..S2..S3.. etc. These are schematics for different parts of the wiring for the Valk.

[KG]

when I laid mine over the bank switch let all the lights come on and it would turn over it just would not start.

[Bighead]

YOU HAVE A DEAD BATTERY!!!!