|
da prez
|
 |
« on: October 06, 2014, 07:36:05 AM » |
|
I understand that this shifter is more boot friendly. What year bike is the shifter from.
If I overlooked the info , oh well. I could not find it in the archives. THANKS !!!!
Please contact me if anyone has one that needs a new home. I would rather buy from the members.
da prez
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
quexpress
|
|
« Reply #1 on: October 06, 2014, 08:11:56 AM » |
|
From an "ole" post by Z-CAJUN
The shifter is meant for a CBR-1100-XX Honda. The parts number are :
Gearshift(24701-mat-000)
the flange bolt(90051-mn8-870)
the rubber(24781-kr3-770).
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
I still have a full deck.
I just shuffle slower ...
|
|
|
R J
Member
Posts: 13380
DS-0009 ...... # 173
Des Moines, IA
|
|
« Reply #2 on: October 06, 2014, 08:31:53 AM » |
|
Those parts are what I have on MGM with the Kickshifter.
I likes it.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
44 Harley ServiCar   |
|
|
|
BF
|
|
« Reply #3 on: October 06, 2014, 03:19:25 PM » |
|
I've had boot/shifter problems for awhile now and tried a couple different things to cure it.
Tried Rattlebars heel/toe shifter......hated it. Tried the shifter you're wanting to try....hated it.
Put the old oem shifter back on and moved it one tooth up....much better but not perfect yet.
MarkT is making a peg lowering kit now. I've ordered and received it already, but haven't had a change to put it on yet.
I'm thinking that with the peg being lower combined with the oem shifter (and maybe with it still in that one tooth higher postiion), that will help with me getting my boot under the shifter to help me to shift better/easier so I stop missing a shift.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
I can't help about the shape I'm in I can't sing, I ain't pretty and my legs are thin But don't ask me what I think of you I might not give the answer that you want me to  |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Momz
|
|
« Reply #6 on: October 07, 2014, 04:28:25 PM » |
|
+1  Have that shift lever on my I/S and on my Rat Rod. I have a OEM shifter with a Kury "longhorn" peg and a relocation kit on my Bobber. |
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
 ALWAYS QUESTION AUTHORITY! 97 Valk bobber, 98 Valk Rat Rod, 2K SuperValk, plus several other classic bikes |
|
|
salty1
Member
Posts: 2359
"Flyka"
Spokane, WA or Tucson, AZ
|
|
« Reply #7 on: October 07, 2014, 05:04:39 PM » |
|
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
My rides: 1998 GL1500C, 2000 GL 1500CF,2006 GL 1800 3A   |
|
|
|
Bronxboy
|
|
« Reply #8 on: December 27, 2015, 10:43:23 AM » |
|
Do u just need the pedal? |
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
DK
|
|
« Reply #9 on: December 27, 2015, 02:44:40 PM » |
|
Do u just need the pedal? Mine came with the rubber or silicone stud cover attached. Dan |
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
Machinery has a mysterious soul and a mind of its own.
|
|
|
|
Mtn Valk
|
|
« Reply #10 on: May 09, 2017, 04:23:38 AM » |
|
Salty, What do you know about this '83 CB1100 toe shifter. Looks to be different than the Blackbird shifter (CBR1100XX). Which one would allow for more room for the boot. As you said, the '83 shifter is NLA, but can be had "used" for a lot cheaper than the Blackbird shifter.
I appreciate you time. Thanks!
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
J3
|
|
|
Alberta Patriot
Member
Posts: 1438
Say What You mean Mean What You Say
Rockyview County, Alberta 2001 Interstate
|
|
« Reply #11 on: May 09, 2017, 07:50:09 AM » |
|
I understand that this shifter is more boot friendly. What year bike is the shifter from.
If I overlooked the info , oh well. I could not find it in the archives. THANKS !!!!
Please contact me if anyone has one that needs a new home. I would rather buy from the members.
da prez
I modified my OEM shifter: I drilled out the pedal and threaded the hole for 3/8" coarse thread and inserted a length of a stainless steel bolt with the head cut off (with epoxy as thread lock) to add about 1 1/2" of length to the pedal. I then slid rubber grommets on to fill the added space and then the shifter rubber. Last was an acorn nut with half the hex nut ground off to avoid metal to leather contact with my riding boot (also installed with epoxy). I also cut the top wire off the shifter arm so that I could raise the pedal enough to clear my boot for upshifts... which has a thick vibram sole and tall toepiece. The pedal is far enough past the valve cover to make downshifting easy...also the shifter is raised enough to avoid pavement contact for you footpeg draggers out there!!    |
|
|
|
« Last Edit: May 09, 2017, 01:11:36 PM by 7th_son »
|
Logged
|
Say what you mean, Mean what you say.
|
|
|
|
Simmy74
|
|
« Reply #12 on: May 09, 2017, 08:19:14 PM » |
|
I temporarily used one from a CB750 when my stocker decided to stay on the highway one day.
The 750 arm is a bit longer, has a curve to it and put the peg at a wider point of the foot, behind the toe. You can even shift it without a peg, the curve cradles the sole of your boot pretty well.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
Guns don't kill people. Drivers with cellphones do.
|
|
|
|
Mtn Valk
|
|
« Reply #13 on: May 10, 2017, 04:28:21 AM » |
|
Thanks Simmy74. It appears their are multiple remedy replacements. I just obtained Cobra floorboards and am looking for the best idea.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
J3
|
|
|
|
Harryc
|
|
« Reply #14 on: May 10, 2017, 05:57:25 AM » |
|
Thanks Simmy74. It appears their are multiple remedy replacements. I just obtained Cobra floorboards and am looking for the best idea.
I run Cobra floorboards and I have a size 15 boot. I installed a lowering kit and use the stock shifter arm. It works fine. I tried the CBR1100 arm and didn't like it. I am thinking about putting this on the existing OEM arm though. https://www.amazon.com/Chrome-Rubber-Extended-Shifter-Davidson/dp/B00CH60VQ8 |
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
Houdini
Member
Posts: 1975
VRCC #28458 - VRCCDS#144
Allen, TX
|
|
« Reply #15 on: May 10, 2017, 08:03:09 AM » |
|
I put Cobra floorboards on my IS and my size 12 was unable to get under the shifter, raising the shifter helped but then I was unable to downshift, I hit the valve cover. I bought a CBR1100 shifter off of Amazon for $11, it allows me to effortlessly shift and moved the shifter out so it is more comfortable for me.
I tried a lowering kit but that option didn't work for me; I constantly scraped my pegs and couldn't lean hard into curves. The lowering kit is not designed for aggressive riding.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
"A Camera And A Bike....What More Do I Need?  |
|
|
Alberta Patriot
Member
Posts: 1438
Say What You mean Mean What You Say
Rockyview County, Alberta 2001 Interstate
|
|
« Reply #16 on: May 10, 2017, 11:16:06 AM » |
|
Thanks Simmy74. It appears their are multiple remedy replacements. I just obtained Cobra floorboards and am looking for the best idea.
I run Cobra floorboards and I have a size 15 boot. I installed a lowering kit and use the stock shifter arm. It works fine. I tried the CBR1100 arm and didn't like it. I am thinking about putting this on the existing OEM arm though. https://www.amazon.com/Chrome-Rubber-Extended-Shifter-Davidson/dp/B00CH60VQ8Similar to my shifter mod only easier and better looking...you still need to drill out the pedal and thread it and... cut the upper wire on the shifter to raise the pedal enough for boot room under the pedal. |
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
Say what you mean, Mean what you say.
|
|
|
|
Mtn Valk
|
|
« Reply #17 on: May 10, 2017, 11:39:20 AM » |
|
I put Cobra floorboards on my IS and my size 12 was unable to get under the shifter. I bought a CBR1100 shifter off of Amazon for $11, it allows me to effortlessly shift and moved the shifter out so it is more comfortable for me.
It seems that the Blackbird shifter would cure the 2 issues, curving up and out. Other than that, drilling the OEM pedal out, threading, and replacing with the one on Amazon that was 3.75" long would be awesome.
I currently have the left foot peg adapter, which I will remove when I put the floorboards on.
Is my above assumption correct or is it more to each's own? |
|
|
|
« Last Edit: May 11, 2017, 06:27:33 AM by Mtn Valk »
|
Logged
|
J3
|
|
|
|
