*Sigh*

[twdurdentwd]

2000 I/S - Darkside: So I hit a bump and ripped the rear wire harness out...it's replaced now but I'm so tired of these shocks. New ones are far too expensive...I feel stuck.

Also, I'm hearing this buzzing coming from the audio control module above left hand...any idea what this is??

The bike has 80,000+ miles on it and I'm starting to notice little things here and there that indicate something serious will fail - or maybe that's my stubborn pessimistic attitude towards her. I'll say I'm sure happy I bought that parts bike.
It just feels like somethin just aint right...I wish there was a way I could sit with a Valk Pro so he could tell me what these little indicators are and why I shouldn't worry, or what I should do about it.

How many miles warrants an overhaul?

What kind of maintenance procedures are suggested besides changing the oil....and with the rear end, I just replaced it and applied new Moly grease....is there more involved with a rear-end service than just doing that?

[Gryphon Rider]

If you want real answers, you'll have to provide real information.  E.g. you said you replaced your rear end and applied moly grease.  What parts did you replace?  New or used?  If used, do you have photos of the wear points, like the splines?  Where did you use moly grease?  Do you mean  moly paste (both are used in different places of the final drive)?  Did you use new seals/o-rings?  Did you follow tightening procedures?  What size tire caused you to tear out the harness?  What type of shocks are you running?  Yes, there is lots involved in maintenance and repair, but it is achievable if you are willing to pay attention to the details.

Oh, and if you want local help, provide your location below your name, like most of us do, and maybe someone will offer to have a look at your bike.

[Chrisj CMA]

2000 I/S - Darkside: So I hit a bump and ripped the rear wire harness out...it's replaced now but I'm so tired of these shocks. New ones are far too expensive...I feel stuck.

Also, I'm hearing this buzzing coming from the audio control module above left hand...any idea what this is??

The bike has 80,000+ miles on it and I'm starting to notice little things here and there that indicate something serious will fail - or maybe that's my stubborn pessimistic attitude towards her. I'll say I'm sure happy I bought that parts bike.
It just feels like somethin just aint right...I wish there was a way I could sit with a Valk Pro so he could tell me what these little indicators are and why I shouldn't worry, or what I should do about it.

How many miles warrants an overhaul?

What kind of maintenance procedures are suggested besides changing the oil....and with the rear end, I just replaced it and applied new Moly grease....is there more involved with a rear-end service than just doing that?

It is very important when you replace the final drive that you tighten the axle and the four nuts that hold the drive to the swing arm in the proper sequence.  Failure to do so will cause early drive failure and it wont feel right while riding if the splines are not aligned,

[Punisher]

Sounds like somebody looking for an excuse to go buy a new bike to me.

Let me know your address and I'll come drag that piece out of your way, may even give you a small amount for it, scrap prices since it is worn out....

[twdurdentwd]

If you want real answers, you'll have to provide real information.  E.g. you said you replaced your rear end and applied moly grease.  What parts did you replace?  New or used?  If used, do you have photos of the wear points, like the splines?  Where did you use moly grease?  Do you mean  moly paste (both are used in different places of the final drive)?  Did you use new seals/o-rings?  Did you follow tightening procedures?  What size tire caused you to tear out the harness?  What type of shocks are you running?  Yes, there is lots involved in maintenance and repair, but it is achievable if you are willing to pay attention to the details.

Oh, and if you want local help, provide your location below your name, like most of us do, and maybe someone will offer to have a look at your bike.

I replaced the differential w/ shaft assembly from a used low mileage bike which looked brand new compared to the one I removed, which came out with about 50 grams of tooth dust from differential side teeth grinding. I applied Moly GREASE on the axle and on the outside of the splines on differential at the differential to wheel jct.

As far as tightening procedures go, I only did this: tightened the differential-swingarm bolts first, then axle nut. Not sure what procedure is/recommends.

I did not use new seals/o-rings.

Out of the three sizes people have chosen to use...I have the middle one and cant rmember the other numbers except for "60"....sorry I'm sick as a dog right now and cant think straight.

Im using the chrome slide-over mechanism type shocks which usually come with the bike. Progressive 442s are on my wishlist. - My wife and are two up total about 500lbs.

It is very important when you replace the final drive that you tighten the axle and the four nuts that hold the drive to the swing arm in the proper sequence.  Failure to do so will cause early drive failure and it wont feel right while riding if the splines are not aligned,

What's the proper procedure?

Sounds like somebody looking for an excuse to go buy a new bike to me.

Let me know your address and I'll come drag that piece out of your way, may even give you a small amount for it, scrap prices since it is worn out....

Not interested

[Chrisj CMA]

Your splines are NOT aligned.  Every rotation of that wheel until you take it apart and do it right is wearing it out, and could be the source of it not feeling right.  I made a power point slide show, its in shop talk, get a book, use search theres volumes written already.  But don't ride that bike unless you want to ruin that new final drive

[Chrisj CMA]

If you want real answers, you'll have to provide real information.  E.g. you said you replaced your rear end and applied moly grease.  What parts did you replace?  New or used?  If used, do you have photos of the wear points, like the splines?  Where did you use moly grease?  Do you mean  moly paste (both are used in different places of the final drive)?  Did you use new seals/o-rings?  Did you follow tightening procedures?  What size tire caused you to tear out the harness?  What type of shocks are you running?  Yes, there is lots involved in maintenance and repair, but it is achievable if you are willing to pay attention to the details.

Oh, and if you want local help, provide your location below your name, like most of us do, and maybe someone will offer to have a look at your bike.

I replaced the differential w/ shaft assembly from a used low mileage bike which looked brand new compared to the one I removed, which came out with about 50 grams of tooth dust from differential side teeth grinding. I applied Moly GREASE on the axle and on the outside of the splines on differential at the differential to wheel jct.

As far as tightening procedures go, I only did this: tightened the differential-swingarm bolts first, then axle nut. Not sure what procedure is/recommends.

I did not use new seals/o-rings.

Out of the three sizes people have chosen to use...I have the middle one and cant rmember the other numbers except for "60"....sorry I'm sick as a dog right now and cant think straight.

Im using the chrome slide-over mechanism type shocks which usually come with the bike. Progressive 442s are on my wishlist. - My wife and are two up total about 500lbs.

It is very important when you replace the final drive that you tighten the axle and the four nuts that hold the drive to the swing arm in the proper sequence.  Failure to do so will cause early drive failure and it wont feel right while riding if the splines are not aligned,

What's the proper procedure?

Sounds like somebody looking for an excuse to go buy a new bike to me.

Let me know your address and I'll come drag that piece out of your way, may even give you a small amount for it, scrap prices since it is worn out....

Not interested

The opposite of what you did, new O-rings are important too.  Was there a thrust washer, a nylon ring on the hub, under the flange (the 5 pin thing with the male splines)?  If not, trouble is coming there too.

[Gryphon Rider]

Here is what I strongly suggest regarding the rear end.  What I call the gear case is what you call the differential and others sometimes call the pumpkin:
1. Change the gear case oil if you don't know it's been done recently.  The chrome doodad on top is a vent, not the filler.  The filler is behind and lower than the axle.  The service manual calls for hypoid gear oil #80, but many use 75W90 synthetic hypoid gear oil, which has worked fine for me.
2. At bare minimum (like Chrisj CMA says), loosen you axle nut and loosen the four gear case to swing arm nuts, then tighten the axle nut first (81 ft·lbs), followed by the four nuts (47 ft·lbs).  This will ensure proper alignment of the wheel splines.
3. Beyond the bare minimum of step 2, I would take the wheel off and clean out the moly grease you put in there.  Inspect the three o-rings and thrust washer.  The manual says replace them with new.  I replace the o-rings every other time I change the rear tire, even though my old ones have always looked good coming out.  Some will offer other opinions, but I follow the manual and put 60% (70% is okay too) moly PASTE on both parts of the the wheel splines before reassembling.
4. Use your finger to turn the left wheel bearing.  it should turn smoothly, with a little resistance.  If not, replace it.  Inspect the axle seal on the left side of the wheel.  If it doesn't look and feel perfect, replace it.
5. When reassembling, follow suggestion 2.

Using moly grease on the drive shaft to pinion cup joint is appropriate.  The manual says replace the seal on the drive shaft when you have it apart.  Mine has always looked and felt good, so I've left the old one on.  Regular chassis grease on the other end of the drive shaft is fine.

You say, "I'm starting to notice little things here and there that indicate something serious will fail."  If you describe those little things, you might get helpful opinions about their source(s).

[Chrisj CMA]

I applied Moly GREASE on the axle and on the outside of the splines on differential at the differential to wheel jct.

Doing the bare minimum (as stated) would be ok, if there is a thrust washer and you used enough grease.  If you only put grease on the flange

and not a bunch inside the final drive (female splines)

Then you should take it all apart and do it right and hope the damage has not already been done to those fresh splines.   Only greasing the flange splines results in little to no grease remaining inside the drive after assembly.

[twdurdentwd]

Thank you all for your pointers!!!! I'm taking it apart.