Thanks for the hydrolock help guys. Update link posted

[dpcarson]

I posted a blog of sorts of the progress so far on the general board and a couple people suggested that I should post a link here because it may be of interest to the guys that mostly frequent the tech board, so here is a link to it.

http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,75883.0/topicseen.html

[R J]

Make sure you repair the petcock as it was the culprit on the hydro lock.

[dpcarson]

Make sure you repair the petcock as it was the culprit on the hydro lock.

  Have that on my parts list already.  Previous owner actually broke it trying to take the tank off to figure out how to get to the starter, so he insured that would definitely be replaced.  Sure hope I can get this thing running and this has not been a total waste of my time, and of course the money I paid for the bike.

[old2soon]

Make sure you repair the petcock as it was the culprit on the hydro lock.

  Have that on my parts list already.  Previous owner actually broke it trying to take the tank off to figure out how to get to the starter, so he insured that would definitely be replaced.  Sure hope I can get this thing running and this has not been a total waste of my time, and of course the money I paid for the bike.

Take yer time-do it right-will NOT be a waste of your time. When you get ready to start it up after the repairs and she fires up!  RIDE SAFE.

[dpcarson]

That is certainly what I am hoping!!  This is the first real repair type work I have ever done on a Valkyrie.  My other one has been service only and I have typically taken it to a shop for anything more than oil change.  Hoping I am not getting in over my head.  Most of my projects have been boats and since we are typically out 20 to 40 miles out in the ocean, any time I start working on one, I go ahead and change everything I get to that is a routine maintenance item.  I would much rather put in a couple extra 50 dollar parts now than have to do this again in a year or two.  All advice is always appreciated.


[/quote]       Take yer time-do it right-will NOT be a waste of your time. When you get ready to start it up after the repairs and she fires up!  RIDE SAFE.
[/quote]

[Bone]

Lost my short-term memory from an injury in 2004. I like to wrench but the new challenges caused a few problems.
Get you camera/phone and take pictures throughout the disasembly. Lay the pieces out in sequence as they are removed don't pile them up.

Post any thing you question before it becomes a head ache you will get all the support/answers you need.

[Kep]

I would get rid of that OEM petcock and go with a Pingel Vavle and DanMarc electric solenoind shutoff...I did and I love it. Plus..no hydroloc worries.

[Gryphon Rider]

If you want to put in a coolant temperature gauge, there is a unused boss on the thermostat housing that can be drilled and tapped for the gauge's temperature sender.  It'll be easy to get to now.

[old2soon]

When-not IF-but when the job starts to frustrate you instead of making COSTLY IGNORANT mistakes get up and walk away. And if it's something I have NOT done before I read it look at the pictures read again then pick up the appropriate tool. Maybe spread a tarp under the M/C before you start-little parts hide/crawl/disappear into places they should not. Have your mechanical fingers tool AND the magnetic pick up tool close. Go in with the attitude-I CAN I WILL do this. BUT DO NOT be afraid to walk away when you need to. On the install/rebuild-if it's a steel bolt into aluminum anti seize it. If it calls for a torque value torque it correctly. Make SURE the tool is as near perfect on the fastener you are working on. On hex nuts/bolts I prefer a six point socket/wrench over a 12 point. On the Phillips heads an American one will work BUT they are I believe called J I S-Japanese industrial standard I believe. And I've found out J I S are SPENDY. Again-GOOD LUCK on yer adventure into the bowls of the Phatt lady!   RIDE SAFE.

[KG]

check rear wheel dampers make sure they haven't dry rotted
check rear shock bushings
rear end maint- check splines, shaft and pinion cup and regrease and replace all 3 orings
put u joint in vise and twist and check for any play

new tires and check wheel bearings

order any safety chrome it doesn't have and install it just watch it cause  you will find most is only  made of unobtanium or holycrapthatcostsalot.

[Gryphon Rider]

check rear wheel dampers make sure they haven't dry rotted
check rear shock bushings
rear end maint- check splines, shaft and pinion cup and regrease and replace all 3 orings
put u joint in vise and twist and check for any play

new tires and check wheel bearings

order any safety chrome it doesn't have and install it just watch it cause  you will find most is only  made of unobtanium or holycrapthatcostsalot.

Now I haven't actually removed my engine, but but I have done the things mentioned by KG and I think it's safe to say that these things can be done just as easily with the engine in. 

[dpcarson]

OK, I am reading the manuals and trying to decipher what needs to happen next.  Engine is out.  Now I believe it is the rear case.  Is that correct?  The book jumps around a little and I do not want to disassemble anything that I could remove as a unit.  Help!

[gordonv]

Since the engine is out, should make it easier to change the timing belts. There is a lot of write ups about it.

Don't know if the article you read will have it or not, but remove the spark plugs first, so the compression doesn't force the engine over.

Speaking of spark plugs, down in the spark plug well, is a hole through the head, to allow water to drain our to the bottom. A piece of solid copper wire should make a nice poker.

[dpcarson]

OK, more questions for those that have pulled one of these beasts apart.  
First, is any special tool needed to pull the clutch other than the big sockets that I saw discussed in other threads?

Next, what is meant by unstaking the ring in front o the nut and re-staking it?  Is there an easier way than grinding to get this off?

Will the 1 13/16 socket work for the clutch basket removal or will I have to get the specialty tool?

Does the output shaft lock nut have to be removed in order to remove the rear case to change the broken gears out?



Thanks.  I am getting there.  Got to order tools and parts needed tomorrow.


Oh, and a carb question.  I have cleaned the jets good with jet cleaning wires.  Should I replace the jets?  And what is the benefit of changing over to a #38 slow jet?

[moodyvalk]

Its worth your time to read this thread and watch the video's...

http://www.valkyrieforum.com/bbs/index.php/topic,74003.0.html

[dpcarson]

Thanks Moody.  Very interesting read.  I would love to see a tensioner test done on the internal springs of the float needles to see what the variation would be between new factory spec and older one.  Certainly fuel can get inside these needles and start gumming up the internal spring in them.  I have my carbs broken down now and will be going through them a second time before re-installing.  May go ahead and replace floats and needles while I have them off.

[dpcarson]

Anybody willing to help a brother out and rent out the sockets for the clutch basket nut and the output shaft nut?

[DK]

Re:  Jets

I changed mine from .35 stock to .38 - there was an appreciable increase in low end power & it pulls away from dead stop at idle more smoothly - gives it a neat stumbling rumble when going slow in gear with slack throttle - causes it to run rich at idle - I didn't notice any decrease I'm mileage, although I do not monitor it closely.

I live in Little Rock, elevation 330'.

[dpcarson]

Do you have a decent source for those jets that you would recommend?

Re:  Jets

I changed mine from .35 stock to .38 - there was an appreciable increase in low end power & it pulls away from dead stop at idle more smoothly - gives it a neat stumbling rumble when going slow in gear with slack throttle - causes it to run rich at idle - I didn't notice any decrease I'm mileage, although I do not monitor it closely.

I live in Little Rock, elevation 330'.

[Hook#3287]

Do you have a decent source for those jets that you would recommend?

Search is your friend

From  the FL board

http://jetsrus.com/a_jet_kit_street/honda_1500_valkyrie.htm

and float jets

http://www.amazon.com/Supply-Float-Needle-6pk-18-8955/dp/B001KOD732/ref=au_as_r?ie=UTF8&Make=Honda%7C59&Model=GL1500CT%20Valkyrie%20Tour%7C17895&Year=1998%7C1998&n=15684181&newVehicle=1&s=automotive&vehicleId=1&vehicleType=motorcycle

It's been about 10 years since I had a clutch out of a Valk, but I believe the manual is talking about bending the lock tab back when stating "Unstaking".  I reused the lock washer.

I used a borrowed standard socket, I forget the size, and a impact gun, to remove the clutch basket nut and if memory serves me (which it don't a lot) I put the bike in gear and held the rear brake peddle down to lock the engine.

Have fun

[dpcarson]

Is the 100 the standard factory high speed jet in the Valk?

[moodyvalk]

Is the 100 the standard factory high speed jet in the Valk?

your gona mixed pinions over jetting...I would suggest leaving the jetting alone 35/pilot and 100/main. Look up my "turbo build" in the search and I'm still running the 35 slow jet no reason to change that, heck I'm still running the stock 100 main jet also but how I get away with that at approximately 180 hp is top secret info 

[Attic Rat]

Stay away from the 38 slow only use the 35 slow jets. If you could only see all these engines that I pull down for performance work that have been running the 38. The engines are all coked up from running way too rich. I have to grind all that build up out of the ports.
you don't need special tools to remove the clutch just a couple of big sockets and a impact wrench

[The emperor has no clothes]

Stay away from the 38 slow only use the 35 slow jets. If you could only see all these engines that I pull down for performance work that have been running the 38. The engines are all coked up from running way too rich. I have to grind all that build up out of the ports.
you don't need special tools to remove the clutch just a couple of big sockets and a impact wrench

Good info to know

[moodyvalk]

Stay away from the 38 slow only use the 35 slow jets. If you could only see all these engines that I pull down for performance work that have been running the 38. The engines are all coked up from running way too rich. I have to grind all that build up out of the ports.
you don't need special tools to remove the clutch just a couple of big sockets and a impact wrench

Good info to know

yep Attic Rat knows his valkyrie stuff! 

[Hook#3287]

Stay away from the 38 slow only use the 35 slow jets. If you could only see all these engines that I pull down for performance work that have been running the 38. The engines are all coked up from running way too rich. I have to grind all that build up out of the ports.
you don't need special tools to remove the clutch just a couple of big sockets and a impact wrench

Hey Bob
If you have the inclination, maybe you could post some pictures of the choked up ports next time you come across some.

Is it a problem that will affect performance? 

What do you do to keep the corn gas from buggering up your jets?

As always, thanks for relating your experience.

[Attic Rat]

Yes getting the ports clogged up with too much fuel build up will affect the performance.
I  really don't have any problem with the corn gas as you call it. However I only run real gas of my performance bikes

[Hook#3287]

I don't have a source of Non-ethanol gas, so I have to use e-10.

Over the years, I've had issues with the gas plugging the slow 35's and have replaced them with 38"s with no further plugging.

I use a gas additive about every third tank, just to clean things up a little.

This is the first I've heard of a down side of that change.

Just wondering, in your opinion, should I consider changing back to 35's and treating every tank, or stay with the 38's and wait for some indication of performance issues caused by exhaust port choking?

Any ideas of how long (miles) before issues would show up?

Would I be able to see what's up by removing the exhaust and looking up the ports?

[indybobm]

I still have #35 jets in mine. I keep a bottle of Lucas -  Ethanol Gas Treatment in the saddlebag. I put about an ounce in the tank every time I fill up. You never know when the bike might sit for awhile. So far, no problems, even over the winter months.

[Ricky-D]

It has been expressed in similar threads that any improvements

regarding crudded up jets by changing from #35 to #38 is usually

from additional, "looking after" the whole process of fuel system

treatment. Meaning that the rider no longer ignores items, as in the past,

he may have been doing. Naturally, good practices with regard to

this area of bike maintenance, would hardly ever require any kind of

carburetor modification except for a synchronization or an

occasional draining of the accumulation from the bottom of

the float bowls. #38 jets are neither required nor recommended

for optimum performance of the Valkyrie engine.

***

[DK]

I was completely unaware of these problems associated with .38 jets. Nor was I aware that they continued to draw through 3,000 rpm. 

I've been running rich more time than not while all the time I thought I was beyond the slow jets even at moderate highway speeds. I see how things would get coked up.

I've decided to go back to the .35's.

Thanks everyone for the information.

Dan

[DK]

Re:  Changing back to .35 low jets:

What everyone think about installing new needle valves while changing out jets?

I'm not having any apparent problems but they have been swimming in ethanol most of their lives.

[dpcarson]

WOOHOO!!!!  Just got the new needle valves and carb screws and gaskets all in today and just finished re-assembling the carbs and had no parts left over!!!  That is always a good thing.  My needle valves all appeared in good shape but my floats were not sitting even so I figured a couple of them had weak springs inside.  So, I ordered all new ones and replaced all them while I had the things apart.  Might as well replace anything questionable while they are off.  Now just have to wait for the new starter and idler gears to show up, and the sockets to take the case off, then I can get that done and start trying to put it all back together.  That should be fun.  I didn't think to take pictures until about half way through.  Now to look through the shoptalk and figure out what to remove to de-smog everything.  Thinking I am going to do that while the carb are off.

[TWiesen]

damn this is the first i read of this thread, if i had seen it earlier i woulda sent you the sockets i built to remove the rear case.  look over your rear case and all of the sprockets involved in starting for damage.  i ended up having to replace another sprocket after i had ordered my parts.  good luck with repair, you're almost done with the hard part.

[dpcarson]

Thanks TW.  As of this point the repair portion is completed.  I found all six of the busted teeth in the case, replaced the two busted gears, de-smogged, completed carbs sticking with the original #35 jets, and started re-assembly last night and was excited because I just knew that between the work I could do last night and the work i could do today.........  I might be able to have here breath today!!!!

Then you realize you lost a dowel for the clutch case.   

Now everything is on hold until I can get the new dowel here.

[gordonv]

Do you need the dowel? Doesn't it just align the parts, and the same thing can be done with the bolts?

[dpcarson]

no.  I tried to put it on and put the bolts in and even with all the bolts in, unless I torque them down really tight to pinch it in place so tight it can't move, there is a little bit of wiggle and movement in the clutch cover.  So, I definitely do not want to break the gasket seal and dump all the oil.