Pinwall Cycle

[Hef]

Has anyone here dealt with Pinwall Cycle Salvage? They have a universal joint for sale on EBay off a 2000 Valkyrie bike with 20k miles . The bid is $35. Thinking about buying it for a spare since these are getting hard to find.

[Alien]

Bought several things from them.  No problems, ever.  They part out wrecked bikes and are usually pretty good about showing or describing any defects up front in the listing.  That said, I don't know if I'd buy a used u-joint from anyone.

Ride Safe,

Alien

[Bighead]

I don't know if I'd buy a used u-joint from anyone.

Ride Safe,

Alien

+1  buy a new one.

[Jess from VA]

Agreed.  Even if it's good at install, how long will it stay good?  Not a terrible job, but big enough I'd want it to last.

It's one of those parts I'd rather have new. (and I do)

Service Honda:
    PART    #           RETAIL      YOUR PRICE    JOINT, YOKE
40200-MZ0-A00        $183.13      $137.99

Used to be something like $80.

[Hef]

Jess, where can u get one for $138? My dealer quoted me a price of $209.

[Jess from VA]

Service Honda link: Part No 1 ($137.99)
http://www.servicehondapsn.com/fiche_section_detail.asp?section=4223974&category=Motorcycles&make=Honda&year=1999&fveh=188145

Pro Caliber link:  Part No 1 ($120.86)
http://www.procaliber.com/oemparts/a/hon/506c2f2bf870023420a31b1c/swingarm

I guess I'm done with HDL #1 ($146.50)
http://www.hondadirectline.com/OEMpartfinder.htm#/Honda/GL1500CF_A_%2899%29_MOTORCYCLE,_USA,_VIN%23_1HFSC410-XA000001/SWINGARM/GL1500CF-99-A/2Y14MBYXMBY4F2500A

BTW, all these links are for '99 Interstates, but all U-joints are the same (as far as I know).

Do your own shipping search.

Man, I'd never ask my dealer for anything much beyond nuts and bolts.  I mean, I'd like to support a local dealer, but they never give me much reason to do so.  I do have a good relationship with the lead mechanic at my dealer, but that's about it. (and he never gives me any guff about bringing in all my own parts, he's happy to have them on hand and to go right to work) (me too) (I try to do most of my own work, but I don't mount tires)

Maybe the dealer has to pay MSRP at $183.13, then gets a $26 markup (14%).  

Hef, honestly, the Pinwall used one might go 100K miles or more.  Who knows?  With only 20K, I  might pay $35-45 for it (not more).   I changed my own U-joint at about 60K on one bike.  I could do it again, but I'm hoping not to. I got another new one anyway (with two bikes, I'll always have one).  I was lucky to limp home on that one.  When I lost the left rear wheel bearing I was in Bumfok Egypt, and it's remote breakdowns that worry me.  

Some of these outfits do have periodic sales.  When you don't need it tomorrow, making a wish list and waiting for a sale can save a few bux (and purchases beyond X$ often have free shipping).

[BobB]

I have seen the used u-joints Pinwall has on eBay, did not pop on them.  However I just purchased a rear rotor for my '98 Tourer from them and it was a good deal. 

[Joe Hummer]

Do your own shipping search.

Man, I'd never ask my dealer for anything much beyond nuts and bolts.  I mean, I'd like to support a local dealer, but they never give me much reason to do so.  I do have a good relationship with the lead mechanic at my dealer, but that's about it. (and he never gives me any guff about bringing in all my own parts, he's happy to have them on hand and to go right to work) (me too) (I try to do most of my own work, but I don't mount tires)

Maybe the dealer has to pay MSRP at $183.13, then gets a $26 markup (14%).  

I agree Jess.  The local dealers are not into it for competition.  They are freak'n nuts if I am going to pay their prices...unless it is an absolute emergency.  That is why I buy my parts online...check a few places but usually end up ordering from RonAyers.com.  They seem to be a good outfit to deal with and are usually real quick on their deliveries.  I ordered parts last Wednesday evening...and they will be on my doorstep this afternoon...including a new u-joint. 

Joe

[Hef]

Thanks Jess. The difference in price from dealer is unbelievable. Right now, don't know that I need a U-joint but noticed if I let off the throttle quickly I hear a clunk. Don't know if it is a u-joint or not but need to get it checked. I know and understand that many of you do your own repairs and that is great. The reason for the dealer association is I have a serious heart problem and not supposed to lift anything over 10 lbs. or strain on turning wrenches, etc. so don't even attempt to do my own repairs. Not looking for sympathy, just saying with my health problems I do what I have to do to keep riding which is my greatest enjoyment. Thanks again for the part sources. Hef

[old2soon]

My dealer has price matched more than once but NOT all the time. I give them a chance on big ticket-over $70.00-items too price match or not. They surprised me on some small ticket items most of the time. Plus they already KNOW I do most of my own wrench work. My dealer CAN NOT even get close on tires. RIDE SAFE.

[Jess from VA]

Well Hef, I see your predicament (and understand).  If you must take it in to get it looked at, and do need a Ujoint (or shaft or pinion cup or dampners) then if you don't have the parts on hand, they will soak your for their parts prices.  They would not be too happy to yank it off the lift and roll it in a corner while, you  order your own parts, but you could still make them do it anyway (or insist they price match, or at least come close).  And you can be pretty sure they do not stock any of these parts anyway, so if you had to do a quick shipping order yourself, you'd still save money if they won't price match.

If you order the parts up first, then don't need them, you are stuck with them (I suppose they could be returned).  When my Ujoint went out, I could not be certain what it was until torn down, but ordered the Ujoint, shaft and pinion cup and dampners and orings anyway.  I only needed the Ujoint, put in new orings and dampners when in there, and still have new shaft and cup.  Like insurance, I have them, and hope I don't need them. (the shaft and pinion cup are cheaper than the Ujoint)

The thing with the clunk, you want to gently do a little first gear throttle bumps each time you go for a ride (right after the driveway) (to flex-test the drive train), to see if it is about the same, or getting worse.  My first guess would be the Ujoint.  My experience is that when it starts to go, it's not long till it really goes.  I was only 20 miles or so from home, and played around and found the least grinding noise and thumping at about 25-30 mph, and limped home gently.

[T-Bird]

  Procaliber.com  $120.86
They are a good company to deal with, and have the best prices.

[czuch]

I bought a rear light assembly from Pinwall.
The turn signal on mine was broken and not gonna take a fix again.
The one they had was $13.00 and was said to have been under water.
Heck, for $13.00 I could get enough out of it to fix mine.
I got it in a timely manner, and it still had water in it. Hows that for truth in advertising?
I cleaned and painted and it works great.
They were honest with what I was getting and prompt on the delivery.
I dont know how much the assembly goes for but I'll bet its more than $13.00 and a couple of hours.

[DK]

I bought a brake pedal form them last week to modify as part of the forward controls I am fabbing.

The price was reasonable and the service was very good and very quick.

[oldskool]

Well, I just had a bad experience from Pinwall Cycle today... I bought the alternator from the 2000 Valkyrie with 28k miles that they're parting out on Ebay. The delivery was quick, but the alternator was way too loose inside the box. The unit would not spin because the plastic bushing thing inside was broken in several pieces and the alternator wire connector was damaged.

I have another alternator wire, but I do not see a part number for the plastic internal bushing thing. Does anyone know what that part is?

Robert   

[Hook#3287]

Well, I just had a bad experience from Pinwall Cycle today... I bought the alternator from the 2000 Valkyrie with 28k miles that they're parting out on Ebay. The delivery was quick, but the alternator was way too loose inside the box. The unit would not spin because the plastic bushing thing inside was broken in several pieces and the alternator wire connector was damaged.

I have another alternator wire, but I do not see a part number for the plastic internal bushing thing. Does anyone know what that part is?

Robert   

Did you contact them?  I'd be surprised if they won't take it back, they seem to have a good rep.

I bought some valve covers from them and price, shipping, packaging and condition were all excellent.  They even included all the bolts, rubber gaskets, washers and the little black hole filler dodads in a zip lock.

You looked here?
http://www.partzilla.com/parts/search/Honda/Motorcycle/1998/GL1500CT+AC/ALTERNATOR/parts.html