Rear brake pad wear kind of excessive

[Tfrank59]

I changed my rear pads back in January, and they're already down to like only a 16th left (Got about 3000 miles on them) They're not Kevlar but the sintered metal ones.  I don't find that they stop all that well either.  And it seems like I barely even use the rear brake.  The rotor looks fine, still plenty thick enough within tolerance and no deep grooves.  Anyway, I ordered the sintered pads again, because I just don't know about Kevlar or organic ones. What do you guys say?

[sandy]

I use OEM pads. No problems. Is your caliper sticking? Do you rest your toe on the pedal? Your issue is not normal.

[Tfrank59]

No, don't rest my foot on her, and she ain't sticking. But I agree it's not normal.

[Bighead]

OEM pads here.

[Hook#3287]

I don't find that they stop all that well either.

If that's the case, why would you get a second set? ???

I'm with Sandy & Bighead, OEM

[pancho]

The pistons in the calipers could be dragging a bit. Does the bike roll around freely  in the garage? Something is going on there, at least try different ones.

[KY,Dave (AKA Misunderstood)]

oem

[Gryphon Rider]

I haven't experienced excessive wear with OEM pads.  My rear brake was getting weak so I disassembled, cleaned, and lubricated the pedal pivot.  That made a huge difference in brake power.

[Big Rig]

OEM...when is the last time you changed your break fluid to the rear??? 

Had the same issue on my wing several years ago...bad seals top and bottom...did not release pressure after the break was applied...went thru two sets of pads before I was pointed in the right direction...

[Tfrank59]

OEM...when is the last time you changed your break fluid to the rear??? 

Had the same issue on my wing several years ago...bad seals top and bottom...did not release pressure after the break was applied...went thru two sets of pads before I was pointed in the right direction...

My caliper isn't sticking--releases pressure immediately when I let off the pedal.  (had her up on the lift and checked--that's when I saw the wear on the pads)  I could stand to change the brake fluid--I'll try that to see if it increases braking power.  What are OEM pad made of?  I was under the impression they're sintered metal.

[Bighead]

Couldn't tell you what they are made of but I have only changed my rear pads once and front twice in over 100k.

[Tfrank59]

Couldn't tell you what they are made of but I have only changed my rear pads once and front twice in over 100k.

That's pretty awesome life for brake pads – even for a car!  My Toyota truck Still had 50% at 140k But I went ahead a did brake job just for GP.  I wonder if Alabama where you are is kind of flat? . Because where I am in the Pacific Northwest it's very hilly lots of twists and turns and hairpins--Sometimes we brake pretty hard from 60 down to 20.

[sandy]

Couldn't tell you what they are made of but I have only changed my rear pads once and front twice in over 100k.

OEM pads are organic. I never use anything else.

[Bighead]

I ride hills and twist ices all the time but use only about 25% rear when stopping.

[Tfrank59]

I ride hills and twist ices all the time but use only about 25% rear when stopping.

I'm probably 70% or more on front braking, plus rear, plus tranny, and sometimes it's still hard slowin the girl down

[Tfrank59]

Okay well I just changed out my rear pads again – went with the sintered metal again.  The ones I pulled a were at 50%, but that's still piss poor for only 4000 miles.  Maybe next time I'll try organic pads instead.

[Valkpilot]

Couldn't tell you what they are made of but I have only changed my rear pads once and front twice in over 100k.

OEM pads are organic. I never use anything else.

OEM pads are sintered metallic.

[Bighead]

Okay well I just changed out my rear pads again – went with the sintered metal again.  The ones I pulled a were at 50%, but that's still piss poor for only 4000 miles.  Maybe next time I'll try organic pads instead.

Why change if they were still at 50%? Just asking.

[Cracker Jack]

A good way to increase your mileage yield would be to run them until they are used up.

[Tfrank59]

Yep, should/could have gone further with them.  I guess when I looked in there at first before taking it apart that's when I saw the pads looked thin, so I ordered new ones.  I was wrong at first--said only 3K miles, and it was actually 4k--and I thought they were down almost to the min. and they turned out to be about 50%.  All in all, I guess with the sintered pads I could go about 7k which still isn't very good life but it's better than I first said.

[Tfrank59]

So who's right, Sandy who says OEM pads are organic, or valkpilot, who says they're sintered? 

[Hook#3287]

A good way to increase your mileage yield would be to run them until they are used up.

Coming from a guy who changes them, what, every 5K

[Valkpilot]

So who's right, Sandy who says OEM pads are organic, or valkpilot, who says they're sintered?  

It's a confusing topic.

There are metallic pads, sintered metallic pads, organic pads, and ceramic pads.

Metallic pads aren't made for our bikes as far as I've seen and aren't appropriate for our rotors, I understand.

Sintering is a process of taking a powder and fusing it under heat and pressure.  In the case of brake pads, powdered metal is used.

Sintered metallic (sintered bronze for OEM) is what our OEM pads and the EBC direct replacements are.

Organic pads were originally for racing applications.  They are made mainly of aramid (Kevlar) or other non-metallic material.

Ceramic pads for motorcycles seem to be both recent and relatively rare.  I don't even know if they are offered for the Valk.

Virtually all OEM brake pads for motorcycles are sintered metallic.  These pads provide the best compromise between wear (pad and rotor) and performance.  They have good initial "bite" and good performance when wet.

Organic pads are softer and therefore much easier on rotors.  The pads themselves wear out faster than will sintered metallic pads, but they are much cheaper.  

Many people like organic pads for these reasons.  However, organic pads do not have the same initial bite as sintered metallic and must be heated up for full braking effectiveness.  They also don't perform quite as well in wet conditions.  

Those that use organic pads swear by them.  Because of where and how I ride (lots of commuting in high-density traffic) I prefer to have the little bit of extra performance advantage that sintered metallic pads provide.

[Tfrank59]

So who's right, Sandy who says OEM pads are organic, or valkpilot, who says they're sintered?  

It's a confusing topic.

There are metallic pads, sintered metallic pads, organic pads, and ceramic pads.

Metallic pads aren't made for our bikes as far as I've seen and aren't appropriate for our rotors, I understand.

Sintering is a process of taking a powder and fusing it under heat and pressure.  In the case of brake pads, powdered metal is used.

Sintered metallic (sintered bronze for OEM) is what our OEM pads and the EBC direct replacements are.

Organic pads were originally for racing applications.  They are made mainly of aramid (Kevlar) or other non-metallic material.

Ceramic pads for motorcycles seem to be both recent and relatively rare.  I don't even know if they are offered for the Valk.

Virtually all OEM brake pads for motorcycles are sintered metallic.  These pads provide the best compromise between wear (pad and rotor) and performance.  They have good initial "bite" and good performance when wet.

Organic pads are softer and therefore much easier on rotors.  The pads themselves wear out faster than will sintered metallic pads, but they are much cheaper.  

Many people like organic pads for these reasons.  However, organic pads do not have the same initial bite as sintered metallic and must be heated up for full braking effectiveness.  They also don't perform quite as well in wet conditions.  

Those that use organic pads swear by them.  Because of where and how I ride (lots of commuting in high-density traffic) I prefer to have the little bit of extra performance advantage that sintered metallic pads provide.

Well okay then, good to know. Thanks

[Cracker Jack]

A good way to increase your mileage yield would be to run them until they are used up.

Coming from a guy who changes them, what, every 5K

Cheap insurance!!

[BnB Tom]

   Are the ROTORS OEM?

[Tfrank59]

   Are the ROTORS OEM?

yep, mine are--if you're asking me