Bulbs can last a long time or they can go quickly. They are used as an example, repeatedly in college engineering / probability classes for that reason.
If your Kisan is downstream of the relays, as it should be, the relays don't care what load you put on them, or if it varies, as long as it is below the rating of the relay.
No on the "ongoing issue".
No on the shorter life. They are not actually switched on & off, but have the voltage reduced on the low cycle. There is no varying shock on the filiment like there would be if it was an on-off-on etc cycle.
Both relays and bulbs can be bad. I have at least a dozen relays on Deerslayer. I think I have had to replace like 2 of them. Buy quality relays from a car parts store. Throw away the ones included in kits. Those are provided by the lowest bidder and the times I've tried to use them they were consistently junk. I have had good luck with the hi-power bulbs at
http://www.compacc.com/p/kuryakyn-replacement-headlight-bulbs. Use the pull-down, 130/90's are $15.99 at this link.
I have had the headlight upgrade since 1998 (in fact I wrote the article) and the wired-in 150w Kisan modulator - not available anymore, last I checked - with 130/90 headlight and they last normal periods - typically 3 years or so. With 10k or so miles per year.
BTW that article was written maybe 15 years ago and is an early version - not updated. This one is more recent -
http://www.horseapple.com/Valkyrie/Tech_Tips/Headlight_Upgrade/headlight_upgrade.html You don't need to use a "dual relay" - just any 2 relays, one each for the high and low circuits. Typically around $10 ea at any auto parts store. For those with the idea of "one relay can do it" - I don't recommend cheaping out by using a single relay with the 87 and 87a pins (Triggered with the blu/white hi-beam line, and powered from the blue line) because you want it to go off when hitting the starter, and still reduce the load on the blue line which goes through the starter sw. Just power them thru a separate fused line from the battery, and use the wires that used to go to the bulb, to the triggers of the relays. Then you will take the load off the blue line, off the hi-lo sw and the starter sw, and still have the headlight go off when you hit the starter. Also, I've used the 130/90 bulb for 15 years now - no problems with the lens or reflector - but do recommend a higher power rated plug - I have one from NAPA - ceramic IIRC.
After doing this mod, I have never had a headlight failure other than burned-out headlight bulb, and that at normal intervals. I think this mod is the best bang-for-the-buck to get serious illumination down the road. But I haven't tried the new LED H4 bulbs, or the stand-alone LED spot fixtures. Pretty spendy on the latter. I KNOW this mod is way better for the $ than the HID mods. But they do look cool, I guess, with that blue tint.
